Generally known as a "non-interference" since valves USUALLY don't get bent when the belt breaks.

No guarantees, since valves are sometimes bent in those circumstances anyways, often dependent on RPM when it breaks.

Failure was probably age dependent rather than mileage, since 120,000 is the recommended replacement mileage.

New belt isn't a huge job on the SPI (as opposed to the Zetec), it has timing marks on the pulleys for installation & only one cam to get right.

Would likely be worth trying to see what you've got.

SHOULD pull plugs & check for damage first, SPI can also drop a valve seat causing damage that COULD be the actual cause of the timing belt failure. Quick look is even cheaper than a new belt, and the plugs would be pulled when changing the belt anyways.

 

Thanks for the quick reply.

I'll go back to the garage tomorrow Monday to see car again.

What should I ask the mechanic to show me exactly and what I should be looking for?

Thanks again.

 

Looking for damage to the spark plug ends or visible damage down the holes with a light is the first step.

Damage seen there would mean head repair (at a minimum) is needed.

Timing belt can be seen by peeking under/moving back it's cover at the passenger side of the engine. If it isn't tight around the toothed cog that moves the camshaft, damage to the belt is obvious. More hidden damage like stripped cogs on the belt would need removal of the cover to see.

If the cylinders look good & the belt is bad, replacing the belt to do a compression check of the engine to determine it's condition is probably the cheapest/easiest way to make sure it's mechanically OK.

Luck!

 

Sailor, I truly appreciate your valuable input. I will get the mechanic to show me these later today.

I'm now trying to understand what might have caused the timing belt to break.

As I mentioned before, the Temperature Gauge was deflected on the cold side for some days. Checked the fluids and everything was ok. Other than the odd gauge indication, driving was ok. Can I suspect the water pump failed causing the belt to snap? But if that's the case, according to what I read, the temperature gauge would have indicated Hot temperature, not cold.

Also, a month ago, I had my mechanic to replace the exhaust system (CAN$650). And from what I saw, I suspect the part wasn't quite right as he cut a piece of extension pipe he had and welded it to make it "fit". Can a "wrong" exhaust system cause stress enough for the timing belt to snap?

Thank you again.

 

Age, miles, water pump could all be involved on the SPI.

Exhaust wouldn't be, sedan & hatchback exh. are different lengths so a hatchback version could have been used with modification to fit.

Temp. gauge can be cross checked by an odometer "trick" to put it in test mode by holding the reset button while starting the car. That will give many digital readouts when the button is pressed again once the car is running to scroll through the options. Not useful unless it gets running again.

I forgot the Water pump was driven by the Timing belt on the SPI. If damage isn't seen through the plug holes, mechanic might suggest the leakdown test I mentioned B4 trying a belt/tensioner/water pump replacement since the job is more costly than just replacing the belt.

Just have to wait & see what a closer inspection reveals.

Luck

 

Mechanic here. If just the belt broke due to age/wear and nothing else seems wrong, its usually quicker to do the timibg belt (dont worry about accessories, you just want to see if the motor is good) than do all the testing on that engine.

I usually give 80 percent chance of living at that speed. When above 2k rpm it gets dicey for interference or non on any engine. Usually these engines are not interfrence.

 

............my friend mechanic....... and I asked him if it's an interference engine or not? He didn't know what I was taking about..........

I'm betting he's more of a friend than mechanic - nothing wrong with that but is he doing the work for free?

As mentioned you can check to see if the timing belt is moving, but it's a bit of a pain to get the timing cover off - bolts are not very accessible. You can take the valve cover off very easily though and see the valve train/cam sprocket and maybe all the belts teeth (if hand cranking).

Or you can see the rockers if you remove the oil filler cap.

 

Just to give an update.

The timing belt snapped (ripped), I saw it. It was replaced. The water pump was rotten and was also replaced.

There was no valve or any other engine damage. (close call).

After a $650 repair bill, I drove the car back home.

I must now deal with some rust patches... but that's another story...

Hat it not been for this forum, I would have trashed the car. At least I learned what's an interference and non-interference engine.

Thanks all.

 

Thanks for the Update!

Good to hear it worked out for you, not cheap but what is? Better than junking it for now at least.

There are exceptions where it doesn't work out, checking it before giving up can be worthwhile.

You're Welcome - members here help out as much as they can, helps all of us on occasion.

Cheers