2003 Focus ZX3 2.0 16V DOHC

 

I had just replaced my slave cylinder in my 2012 focus mtx75 and ran into an issue of a no start. It was like it was trying to get gas but something was holding it no matter how far I pushed on the gas.
I remembered the a series of sensors on the master cylinder down on the clutch pedal. I observed how they worked and acted. When I push the pedal down and then back up the sensors work in unison to each other. Push down on the clutch pedal one opens and then the other closes, and then vise versa. I had my sensors working out of unison.
Give that a look. It just might help. It did for me.

 

que tal, tengo mismo problema...

 

well, it's interesting you have the exact same issue. What have you tried so far? @geromu7

 

Igual revision de cables, bujias, chispas, bobinas todo bien, entonces lo deje para que le cambien la bomba de la gasolina, me comento un mecanico que probablemente no este manteniendo la presion adecuada el riel de inyeccion, haber que sucede.

 

I didn't change the fuel pump due to the PSI being in a good range and the pump sounding likely to be priming the rail. From various videos I have been looking through I am finding 40-50 psi to be fair enough not to need a replacement just yet though a brand new pump should be 60- 70 psi on key turn.

 

Do you have the Duratec or Zetec? Both were available in 2003 (and are DOHC 16v 2.0 engines).

 

I was able to pull a stored code on the car of P0320. Once erased it did not return.

 

@hEaT I have the Zetec.

 

This is my son's first car probably just trying to get all the gremlins out before I release him in his own sports car only he knows he is racing. I used this car for years with no issues commuting to work I know he will enjoy the fuel mileage from it.

 

I have a live read scanner(older) if there is a specific reading that someone is looking for to help troubleshoot this; still plugging away at videos and such.

 

Similar issue with my 2015 2.0L with the dual clutch automatic. If it sits overnight it will turn over for about ten seconds then finally fire (albeit very slow and it sputters a lot initially). I can hear the low pressure pump kick on when I turn the key, and it seems to help if I cycle the key three or four times before starting. But it also seems to be having issues on the highway, especially at speeds over 65 mph. The other day I was on the interstate running about 80 and it lost throttle response several times, as in pedal to the floor and it was barely keeping the car going. Also throws codes constantly for low fuel pressure on the low side. All this seems to make my transmission lose it's mind as well. It's a fresh rebuilt trans with new forks, actuators, throwout bearing, cluthes, and a remanufactured TCM. All with less than 1k miles on it. Trans does fine until that low pressure code pops, then it goes haywire. All that said, I used Forscan to track the high and low fuel pressures, the HPFP is doing exaclty what the PCM asks it to do, but the low pressure pump is at a constant 30 psi low vs. the PCM request. I say all that to say that in my opinion, while the LPFP might be working, something is wrong there and if it's like mine, seems to be the root of other issues.

 

So it turns out the crankshaft position sensor was not reconnected when the transmission was reinstalled. This explains a bit. Also, the connector was melted and the wires were not in the best of shape. We installed a new connector last night but found the cat was getting really hot and I am hoping it is not plugged up. Also, the front fans were not triggering even at 100 Celcius.

 

Front fans don't trigger until 110, and can be off easy a couple degrees and normal. They turn OFF at 100.

 

100C? or 100F?

 

C

 

Do you have the Duratec or Zetec? Both were available in 2003 (and are DOHC 16v 2.0 engines).

AFAIK, the only Duratec engine offered during 2003 and 2004 (in North America) was the 2.3 engine. In 2005 the 2.0 Duratec was standard, and the Zetec was gone.

 

Ugh, yes you're right, good catch.

 

Yes, messing with clutch linkage means one should check the operation of the clutch switch that makes sure car will not start with clutch out.