I have a some red shop towels that I have rolled up and shoved in there that I use. That way it wont melt, can be used to clean the oil dip stick, and other tools.

 

Almost all 00-07 Focus were available with either the 40R or 96R battery depending on equipment and all had a battery tray that could hold either. The 96R is about 1-9/16" narrower than the 40R. My 02 wagon has a 96R with space on both sides. My 05 ZX4 has a 40R. Motorcraft only sells the 96R now. Unless it is broken the hold down should keep the battery from moving.
Paul

 

It seems like the threaded rod that the 10mm nut screws onto and locks down the top plastic swivel isn't threaded long enough and bottoms out which leaves a small gap between the plastic and flared nut, so this is probably why my battery can slide. It was the same way with the stock 40R, had to have come from factory that way

 

Both my 02 and my 05 have the type of battery hold down that uses a 'block' with a single bolt that holds down a 'lip' on the front bottom of the battery. You can see the type in this video (in fact the battery in the video is a 96R in a 40R capable tray):

Perhaps different types of factory trays/hold downs were used. ?

Can you post a pic of your battery hold down?

Paul

 

Interesting that's exactly how the battery comportment was on my 2003 Taurus, but my 2006 Focus is different, here's a pic online of what mine looks like, and the wrench is on the 10mm nut I spoke of, where the threads bottom out not allowing that top block/strap to get tight down on battery. Might have to borrow a friends die to cut the threads further down.

That thick plastic strap has hooks in the back and swivels up, allowing it to detach, then the large plastic shroud over battery lift right up exposing the battery and tray, and battery isn't secured in that tray, so it can slid back and forth.

 

my 2006 Focus is different, here's a pic online of what mine looks like

I did some more research - looks like they changed the battery tray from the 'hold down block' type to the type you have sometime in mid 2005. My 2005 is an early one with the old design.

Paul

 

Put a spacer between the top plate and top of battery to take up space, instant tight. Or convert to common j-hooks and cut the top down to fit as it will hit hood when used.

50 different ways to fix that.

 

Honestly I think the type you have is probably simpler and better

 

It's simpler but I've seen accidents knock those blocks loose before.

 

A little old but my hold down strap snapped. Everyone was telling me (on and offline) not to worry about it.

Then a wire on the neg terminal popped out due to battery sliding. Same issue as yours. 96R is a smaller battery. It was probably like that for awhile, and seemed to run ok that way. It was a big ground wire going to the chassis? I'm guessing.

I noticed it after investigating a new always repeatable loss of power condition under load. So maybe that disconnected wire messed something up, not sure.

I stuffed the excess space on the sides of the battery with pool noodles to keep it held in place for the time being.

 

The top fabric web is simply to keep battery in place in a rollover wreck. The bottom front clamp WILL hold the battery in place tight if it is spaced right. I sometimes use a short piece of 3/4" - 1" X 1.8" aluminum strip from hardware store to make a spacer to lock the battery hard in place. Put it under the plastic front clamp to extend the range of tight there.

That big ground wire coming loose may be loose terminal if using the OEM ones, they are garbage and often twist by hand after tight to cause other issues, change them to the normal bolt on oldschool ones and no problems ever again.

There is zero reason to have a battery loose and flopping around in there, it is far too easy to make them solid bolted down, all it takes is somebody caring enough to do it. I change the size of battery all day long to get good deals and it's easy. One of my Focus cars using a 65 series truck battery now and the other using a side post GM battery at $75 Cheap.

 

The top fabric web is simply to keep battery in place in a rollover wreck. The bottom front clamp WILL hold the battery in place tight if it is spaced right. I sometimes use a short piece of 3/4" - 1" X 1.8" aluminum strip from hardware store to make a spacer to lock the battery hard in place. Put it under the plastic front clamp to extend the range of tight there.

That big ground wire coming loose may be loose terminal if using the OEM ones, they are garbage and often twist by hand after tight to cause other issues, change them to the normal bolt on oldschool ones and no problems ever again.

There is zero reason to have a battery loose and flopping around in there, it is far too easy to make them solid bolted down, all it takes is somebody caring enough to do it. I change the size of battery all day long to get good deals and it's easy. One of my Focus cars using a 65 series truck battery now and the other using a side post GM battery at $75 Cheap.

Here's a photo of it. Priceyish duralast terminal from Autozone. The wire coming from the engine/starter? area was cut in half at the end (you can sort of see it in the photo). Idiot mechanic brother came to 'help' as I was carefully removing some insulation from it.

I simply don't trust the hold downs from the part stores and I refuse to drop $100 before I find something that works as a long term fix. Alum. spacers sounds like a good idea, though.

Honestly, trying to put as little money as I can into the vehicle at this point. It's leaking brake fluid. The driver door doesn't open from outside. The exterior paint is shot with bare metal exposed in some areas. The interior seat handles are broken. The passenger seat backrest refuses to lock in place after a big man sat in it. Fuel vapors leak into the cabin from fuel module from being incorrectly sealed somehow. I even spent $50 on the service tool used to tighten down the cap as much as possible. Now there appears to be a new fuel/spark problem. It better not be the pump from Delphi. I just put the damn thing in last year.

I learned the hard way not to touch the vehicle unless I absolutely have to. Things break off this thing just by looking at it wrong. The car did sit for the better part of 10 years. So a lot of it is my own fault and I'm lucky the main thing I had to replace to get it running is the fuel pump and IAC valve.

 

Somebody there works for Safeway in the meat department.

I have a car that got totaled to look bad now years after the substandard body work (paint), but that is no reason to drive one that does not start and run and drive perfectly. I have never let a car get away from me in repairs like listed there ever. But then I do them all and no money spent except for parts.