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INSTALLING A STIFFER REAR ENGINE MOUNT--NOT NECESSARILY A GOOD IDEA

6.4K views 18 replies 11 participants last post by  jaymz9350  
#1 ·
When buying my 2014 SE, I remarked about a lot of vibration coming through the dash at low speeds, and the private seller commented that was because he had installed an aftermarket rear engine mount. Subsequent research indicated that was a common side effect of the accessory, so I tried it for a few thousand miles. Above 1500 RPM it was fine, but at idle speed the whole center stack buzzed and any attempt to short-shift or have the engine 'pull' a higher gear caused the buzz. Having the A/C on made it even worse. The aftermarket claims these mounts "limit engine movement" and "eliminates wheel hop." Maybe they do--I couldn't tell. Not being an autocrosser, I couldn't see any benefit to getting my daily driver shaken apart, so I took the (Cobb) aftermarket part out and installed an OEM mount.

It made a new car out of it! No more buzz, no more heavy vibration, A/C use made no difference, much more relaxed clutch engagement and easy slow-speed driving--there were good reasons why Ford engineers specified a more compliant mount!

If you are thinking of installing one of these, think hard about the smoothness your car will be giving up, and unless you really like to drive wildly, I'd say pass on it. Sellers of these mounts neglect to mention that they make your Focus "shake like a dog passing a pine cone."
 
#3 ·
When buying my 2014 SE, I remarked about a lot of vibration coming through the dash at low speeds, and the private seller commented that was because he had installed an aftermarket rear engine mount. Subsequent research indicated that was a common side effect of the accessory, so I tried it for a few thousand miles. Above 1500 RPM it was fine, but at idle speed the whole center stack buzzed and any attempt to short-shift or have the engine 'pull' a higher gear caused the buzz. Having the A/C on made it even worse. The aftermarket claims these mounts "limit engine movement" and "eliminates wheel hop." Maybe they do--I couldn't tell. Not being an autocrosser, I couldn't see any benefit to getting my daily driver shaken apart, so I took the (Cobb) aftermarket part out and installed an OEM mount.

It made a new car out of it! No more buzz, no more heavy vibration, A/C use made no difference, much more relaxed clutch engagement and easy slow-speed driving--there were good reasons why Ford engineers specified a more compliant mount!

If you are thinking of installing one of these, think hard about the smoothness your car will be giving up, and unless you really like to drive wildly, I'd say pass on it. Sellers of these mounts neglect to mention that they make your Focus "shake like a dog passing a pine cone."
Different mounts ghave different characteristics. Mine only added minor vibrations at idle and when taking off from a stop (only a small RPM window from idle to 1000-1100) that was very tolerable. The original mount yours had was garbage and even Ford realized that later and updated it. Not everything manufacturers engineers do it right. But as always with aftermarket parts you have to weight the pros and cons, for me the pros won, for you the cons

If you think that's bad though drive one with all 3 poly mounts [emoji1787]

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#4 ·
Who tf puts a RMM on an otherwise stock SE?
Kinda odd, have you looked the car over to see if that's the only mod?
How new was the mount?
My COBB honestly feels the same except under hard launches. Holds a little bit better than OEM but still super floppy, will be getting replaced with something more stiff soon.
 
#10 ·
I've been running the focus eMount for 2 years, no difference in vibration from the stock wobbly soft one. I replaced all 3 at once, pretty easy to do if you've got a jack/stand and an hour or two of time. The passenger side mount I've replaced twice in 30k miles, both times with the oem Ford unit. Not sure if they just suck that bad or I got a bad replacement the first time at 34k miles. I'm at 68k now and still running great (with Tom's tune, the 5 speed really comes alive even without mods). I had the idle adjusted to 750rpm which helps with smoothness as well.
 
#11 ·
the e-focus motor mount was one of the first mods I did. I held off on the Cobb because it’s a daily driver that doesn’t get tracked and I didn’t want the dash rattles/vibrations whatsoever. The e-focus mount was perfect in that it stopped the slapping from hard shifts and also maintained the creature comfort of every day driving. I’m considering replacing it again soon since it’s been in there for probably 80k-90k miles.
 
#14 ·
Folks I have been searching on here where to place the floor jack on the engine on changing on 3 mounts will use OEM. I don't like using the oil pan to jack for the passenger side (just scared something might go sideways). I have a 2012 focus Auto with 90K miles. So where would you recommend that the floor jack be placed and yes will use a 2x4 2ft board.Will placing it on the engine/trany in one place solved for removing all 3 mounts?
 
#15 ·
For one, you should NEVER jack up from the oil pan. Too much could go wrong.
I personally jack from either side under the pinch welds, place a jacket and there and then move to the other side and jackstand that as well.

Also when you say all 3 mounts, are you replacing all 3 engine mounts?
 
#18 ·
Hi Skikri and Jaymz9350, thanks for the response and yes replacing all 3, ford delear said that all 3 plus bushings on front sway bar would cost including parts $1400 in South FL. Ok, will determine where is appropriate, I have seen some you tube video that say a spot between the alternator and just beyond the actual oil pan for the passenger side, here's the link to the video, hope posting doesn't offend anything:
 
#19 ·
$1400? Hell that's twice what all my upgraded poly mounts and sway bar cost. Thanks for reminding me why as much as I hate doing stuff myself why I do it [emoji1787]

Right around the alternator sounds about right for where I did the passenger side. I did both upper mounts with the car on the ground and obviously the lower it had to be lifted. Just make sure you do one at a time.

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