A K&N filter would help too. If you look around, you'll see a thread about the snorkel delete solution also. Take your time and read the thread. Then, make a decision.

 

I have a K&N drop in and the ford racing cold air intake in place of the stock snorkel. This is my first car with an electronic throttle, it just doesnt resond like a good ol' throttle cable does.

 

Is this what you are using?

http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=22758

If so where does it sit behind the non-ST front bumper?

 

You answered your own question. Electronic throttle. Hence the need for tuning to improve throttle response.

 

Lots of cars with electronic throttles have perfectly fine response. My Mazda MX5 has an electronic throttle and great response, for example. So it isn't inherent in the technology, but in how the electrics are set up.

In the Focus, I wouldn't be surprised if throttle response was intentionally soggy to protect the DCT clutches. In addition, with the fuel economy bias in the Focus, the engine is typically at pretty low revs where throttle response wouldn't be brilliant anyway.

As another suggestion, the OP could look for a thread called "5 minute throttle response/DCT solution", which may provide some relief.

 

With so many electronics running in the cars today the only way to really improve throttle response is with an electronic tune.

I have the one from Injected Engineering and it has done wonders to improve the response.
They are also working on a tune for the DCT transmission. That will help a ton as well.

You could also do what a lot of people here have done, change out the Rear Motor Mount to the Electronic Focus mount and get less engine movement and more Torque down to the wheels.

I have done the K&N drop in, snorkel delete, RMM change out, and the Injected tune. LOVE how the car drives now. Eagerly waiting on the DCT trans tune.

 

...
You could also do what a lot of people here have done, change out the Rear Motor Mount to the Electronic Focus mount and get less engine movement and more Torque down to the wheels...

Would you be able to expand on what is different with the stock Focus motor mount and the one from the Focus electric? How difficult is changing the rear mount? I have only ever helped change motor mounts on a '97 Contour and the rear mount was more than a slight pain in the ass.

 

Search and ye shall find.....

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=319739&highlight=rear+motor+mount

 

The throttle response I'm talking about...here is an example....if your at a red light or stop sign, on an incline, in the time it takes to let off the brakes and move your foot over to the gas pedal, start giving it some gas and releasing the clutch (we're talking 5 speed manual, sorry should have mentioned that in the beginning) the car wants to start rolling backwards. Alot of times I have stalled it because the throttle just doesn't respond quick enough and it stalls. Sometimes I'll hold the parking and start releasing the clutch to prevent it from rolling backwards. I have been driving manuals off & on for over 30 years so I know it not me. Thats what I mean when I said "to make it act more like a cable operated throttle" That the throttle does exactly what your foot does. Otherwise, I love the car. Might be time to look at Injected Engineering for a tune. Thanks guys for your input.

 

The throttle response I'm talking about.....A lot of times I have stalled it because the throttle just doesn't respond quick enough and it stalls....I have been driving manuals off & on for over 30 years so I know it not me.

I think you are talking about the idle difference between having your foot on the brake and off of the brake. Try this. On level ground put your foot in the clutch and in gear with the engine idling. Put your foot on the brake and you will see the idle drops to around 500 rpm. Take your foot off of the brake and it slowly climbs to about 900. Watch the tach and you will see as you put your foot on and off of the brake with the clutch pedal in. I hate it.
I let Aric@injected know about this and he is looking into it. It is a function of the programming, probably for gas savings, but it bugs me too. If he can come up with a revised version of their MT tune it will fix it.

 

I can only speak for me and my car. I run an automatic and I can tell you that the response time you are looking for I have found with just doing the injected tune, adding the other mods only made it that much better.
it is truly a night and day difference.

 

Looks like Injected's tune is next. Thanks.

 

A tune will help your problems among others you dont even know you have

Tom

 

Thats the one, it sit behind the upper slot of the lower middle grill. I had to remove the bumper cover to install it.

 

Its available for less other places on the web. The ST guys seem to like it also.

 

It's interesting that the ST doesn't already come with this part... being a performance oriented car. Though good to know it seems to offer gains though.

 

You could get a new and bigger throttle body so that you gain a little horse power and on the throttle body the spring for the throttle cable would be much stiffer

 

There is no throttle cable! [poke]

 

Now, if pricing for the tuner tool and software weren't soo expensive (I had used Cobb Accessport and was able to use their free beta tuner software for some time) I'd be gung ho. Simple way to improve throttle response on Drive-by-wire throttlebody is to change the throttle maps. So when your foot is at X position on the accelerator pedal, the throttle body opens up in Y degrees. I typically made all of my throttle maps linear, so X at 10 is Y at 10, gave me a bit more control/response. It's not so much of an electronic delay but that at certain load points, you can mash the pedal but the throttle body will only open X degrees.

A linear table will give you more of a feeling of a traditional cable setup. Gearing aside, certain small car/engines (Toyota is notorious for this) will have an aggressive throttle table to make the car jump off the line.

 

i went with this method, doesn't add any horsepower, but gives way better throttle, you can adjust the level of the responsiveness as well.

http://www.pedalbox.com

 

the k&n and snorkel delete. much better response. and the k&n i have (E9289) has the removable cap on the end. link below
http://www.amazon.com/E-9289-High-Performance-Replacement-Filter/dp/B00CR9WY38/ref=pd_ybh_24

 

Looks good [thumb] I do have a question for you though. I got the K&N E9289 and the cap on the end is really stiff. How hard was it for you to get yours off? I feel like to get mine off I need to get something under it to pry it off and I want to make sure that I don't brake it if there is a trick to getting it off. For some reason mine did not come with any instructions or anything.

 

turn off traction control when you get in the car