Funny, I had a similar issue on my 2003. It was stalling for no reason. I had that issue for months. Took two weeks for an experienced Ford mechanics to find it: fuel pump regulator. Part replaced, issue fixed.

 

I already changed the fuel rail pressure regulator, is that what you mean or do you mean the fuel pump driver module?

 

Pull the hose on the fuel rail pressure sensor, if it has more than a faint smell of fuel or you see any moisture, the sensor has an internal leak.

 

I did change that sensor, however I know you can get a bad sensor, next time the car gives the issue I'll try this and see.

What brand fuel pump did you use? When starting do you turn the key on and immediately start or do you wait a few seconds for the pump to prime. There was a TSB for the duratecs for hard starting. I would take the car to the dealer and make sure you have the latest update.

I bought an AC Delco replacement pump offline, new not remanufactured, the car starts perfectly no problem starting even when it's giving me that issue turn the key it starts right up but then it chugalugs to death like it's not getting fuel or the spark cut out, the only way to force the car to run is as soon as it starts slap it into first gear and hope the gas pedal does something because if the car starts moving it's fine. I drove the car an hour and a half it gave me the issue for maybe 5 minutes I got it driving again and drove it an hour and 45 minutes home with no issue either way.. the only time the problem manifests is when the car is completely hot you turn it off and it sits for like exactly 10 minutes or so. No hard starting ever. I will try to recreate the issue today and get a video

 

What brand fuel pump did you use? When starting do you turn the key on and immediately start or do you wait a few seconds for the pump to prime. There was a TSB for the duratecs for hard starting. I would take the car to the dealer and make sure you have the latest update.

 

When running poorly (or not starting), scan tool live data:
What is RFP?
What are ST and LT FTs
OL or CL?
O2 sensor voltages?

Paul

 

scan tool live data:
What is RFP?
What are ST and LT FTs
OL or CL?
O2 sensor voltages?

What's the cost of such a scan tool?

 

2007 Ford focus SE 2.0 l duratec ... cleaned the EGR the IAC the MAF and the TPS

If mileage is high, my first guess would be replace the MAF.

 

Check on Amazon, there are many Bluetooth there but I’m not sure if they do live data. Mine is a BlueDriver and it does have a Live menu although I didn’t try that function. This scanner uses your smartphone as the display interface.

 

This scanner uses your smartphone as the display interface.

I have a flip phone.

 

Ok problem happened again... Got a screen recording of the info asked for...

This video is after the car came up to temperature and I let it sit for 10 minutes and tried to start it

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This video is the subsequent starts and stalls

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MAF looks erratic to me, but I'm not the live data guru. Maybe they have a better idea.

 

Watch the exhaust pipe for black belching smoke at the chug-a-lug, if so leaking injector which can do same thing as a bad fuel sensor or regulator.

Injector leaks down to flood that one cylinder and why engine goes to crap until it burns the excess out. Black smoke tells you yes.

 

Problem fixed.. the issue was a bad fuel rail pressure sensor.. when the car was off heat was traveling up the aluminum bracket for the fuel rail heating the fuel rail up vaporizing the fuel raising the fuel pressure above 50 psi and vapor locking the motor. Apparently the fuel pressure sensor I had bought at AutoZone was a bad one and was not bleeding off the excess pressure. Kind of figured it out by watching the fuel pressure climb with the key in accessory position while the car was hot. Then I put a cold rag on the fuel rail and the car worked. Actually still had the original sensor I pulled out (because I got a code that that sensor had a low input) put that old sensor back in and car is fine. I believe the original low input error was a bad fuel pump. Then when I change the sensor and started the stalling issue. Then chasing the stalling I changed the fuel pump and the fuel filter and the alternator and the radiator and the thermostat and the spark plugs and wires.
Anyway the car is fixed long story short don't buy duraCRAP parts.... Now the only issue is I have no reverse lights... But that, I believe, is I need to run a new wire from the switch to the lights. And no reverse lights is a lot easier to deal with than a car that won't run LoL

 

Problem fixed.. the issue was a bad fuel rail pressure sensor.. when the car was off heat was traveling up the aluminum bracket for the fuel rail heating the fuel rail up vaporizing the fuel raising the fuel pressure above 50 psi and vapor locking the motor. Apparently the fuel pressure sensor I had bought at AutoZone was a bad one and was not bleeding off the excess pressure. Kind of figured it out by watching the fuel pressure climb with the key in accessory position while the car was hot. Then I put a cold rag on the fuel rail and the car worked. Actually still had the original sensor I pulled out (because I got a code that that sensor had a low input) put that old sensor back in and car is fine. I believe the original low input error was a bad fuel pump. Then when I change the sensor and started the stalling issue. Then chasing the stalling I changed the fuel pump and the fuel filter and the alternator and the radiator and the thermostat and the spark plugs and wires.
Anyway the car is fixed long story short don't buy duraCRAP parts.... Now the only issue is I have no reverse lights... But that, I believe, is I need to run a new wire from the switch to the lights. And no reverse lights is a lot easier to deal with than a car that won't run LoL

Thank you for the update.

Paul