how are you adding a Cat to long tube headers? I was always under the impression you cant do that, it would be interesting if you could. You will get a lot of perfromance from porting the head out, thats one of the most restrictive parts on the car, besides the OEM cat.

Im guessing 15 horse power, but by no means am I a expert so dont take that like it comes from someone who knows all (power from NA mods on these cars is hard), the thing thats going to be really noticible is the car will be a lot more responsive.

 

Well as of now the headers eleminate the stock location for the cat. So I need to fab up a piece with a flex in it to go between the headers the the cat back, so I will be placing the cat at the very start of the cat back more then likely. Also want to get another resonator on there to make it a lil more quiet.

Also, from my research and looking over dyno sheets with a list of mods the cars had, Im almost positive I will gain more then 15hp. The tuner is a big help. I have a spare head I had planned to send out to port and polish... but havent, nor do I feel like rippin that motor down farther then it is. lol.

 

id say you are in the 115-120 range

 

Ya, 115-120 sounds right, make sure you get a 2.5 inch flex, else you are bottlenecking ur exhaust and loosing hP

 

im thinkin if you added a big wing and an autozone exhaust tip, ud be pushin about 500 whp. Probably get mad wheel hop.


no seriously, about 120 sounds about right.

 

yeah.. if u plan on gettin turbo u wanna go with a 3" tip it will be worth it in the long run..

 

yeah so the focus stock has around 100-105whp w/ a 5speed tranny, so to 115-120 is a 15 hp gain. I wasnt saying youll have 15 hp when your done, I was guestimating youll have 115-120 whp.

Another thing about the location of the cat, if you do it this way let me know if it works. They typically put the cat as close to the exhaust port on the head to heat it up quicker, so I want to know if moving it has any consequences, im pretty sure it wont, im just wondering.

Have fun with it.

 

I heard of one guy having full boltons running 131whp. So you'll be close to that.

 

i don't have a tune and im at 117 whp. youll be in the 120-125 range, depending on altitude and temp/humidity (i dynoed when air temps were 99* and high humidity)

 

I agree with this estimate... stock zetec manuals can be anywhere from 108 to 112 whp stock... figure about 10-12whp added without tuning the cams..

 

I think you should consider getting some cams. Even if they only get you to 135 or so they really help you stay in the powerband by continuing to make power up to 6500 and shifting into the next gear later than usual. (depending on when you normally shift)

 

honestly, it depends where your car started out

not every focus is different, depends on how it reacts to mods

id say 120-125, BUT just a guess

 

From the way I calculate my mods and the HP I have, I would say about 130 whp.

I would say that I am sitting at 125ish whp so you should be a little over that.

 

See from the dyno sheets I have seen on Steeda etc, I was thinking 125-130hp at the wheels.

As far as the cat is concerned, I will be trying to keep it as close to the motor as possible because from what I understand, the way it works is from the heat burning up excess waste, therefore being closer to the motor will help burn it off.

I was looking for some stg 2 cams awhile back, from what I hear if you plan to turbo or even super charge it, they run better on stock cams. So I saved up for a turbo, and bought a bike a month ago or so, figure it would be way quicker then my turbo focus lol.
I got a Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6, so turbo is on hold for now. Maybe sometime this winter depending on funds of course.

I have the rear engine mount wishbone as well, will help launching... its also been lowered on steeda springs, eibach anti roll kit, Energy Suspension bushings all around, the only thing I havent done as far as suspension goes, is get some descent struts. Had s et of KYB AGX's lined up but that fell through, the search continues.

I read that the focus more so then other vehicles, brakes in better when done properly when new. This was owned by an old woman, then passed to her daughter. Super nice folks, doesnt look like they drink, didnt smoke... practically church going folks. I also have all the paper work since new of maintance. So I think the motor is in descent shape, it ran real smooth before tearing it down.

I have some pics posted up, nothing recent in the last couple months but if anyone is bored and wants to take a peek. A few pics in the album were posted to show people something etc, so some of them are pointless pics.

http://mulingko.myphotoalbum.com/albums.php

 

my dyno

header,catback,cai,plugs/wires,coil,UDP,X3,stock 01 IM, stock TB
that was untuned and the cam gears at 0,0

 

my dyno
header,catback,cai,plugs/wires,coil,UDP,X3,stock 01 IM, stock TB
that was untuned and the cam gears at 0,0

Impressive! and untuned... What kind of headers do you have? I read in sport compact mag (I think it was) when they through bolt ons on a foci they said the tuning and adjusting the cam gears a bit was a big improvement. So with that done, and I have the best intake mani, ported, with the bigger TB. I should be over 130whp. How many miles on your car man? oh... and are you running a cat?

 

my TQ was 133 at i think 4500

 

wow so i should be close i am lacking the tuner right now

 

i just rolled over 122k with 180 compression across the board.
and im about to slap on the turbo.

at that time i was running the ebay header. now i have an svt header and orp. when i run the svt cat i can feel a little bit less power. i also now have a light flywheel and 2000 IM so im probably floating around 135 give or take.

 

Very nice. My next thing is the flywheel and clutch. And maybe a new diff out of the svt tranny. Was the ebay header shortys? And Im not sure what the ORP stands for. Is that like an electronic exhaust dump valve? Or is it over sized race pipe? Like a downpipe?

Im pretty sure actually that I had seen a dyno sheet matching my mods and was hitting almost 150hp. I think the guy might have had stg 2 cams, other then that though... same setup.

I need a compression tool... I saw one on sale but hesistated. Its like you use it once and put it away for the next 6 months lol.

And what plugs and wires/coil are you running? I was going to get a screamon demon coil pack with the matching wires but everyone said the stock setup is the same if not better, until maybe over 250-300hp. Then you want a big gap etc...

 

i had ebay long tube. no cat
an orp is an off road pipe it eliminates the cat on the svt exhaust

 

ahh ok. So they were long tubes, so should be comparable to mine then. Well hopefully my hi flow cat wont restrict too much.

Is there a difference between flex pipes? I need to go grab one with another small resonator I want to throw on. As long as its a 2.25 flex... it will be good no? Obviously the stock one would restrict because of size... They dont make like a performance flex per say do they?

 

u can find bigger flex pipes all over the place. where do u plan on putting ur i flow?
ur best bet would probably be to get a full ebay header and flex i paid 150 back when i did mine and have had ZERO problems with it.

 

nah, I already have OBX long tube headers heat wrapped. And then I beleive stock after the cat it goes up over the cradle or something, I cant remember. So I will be putting the cat as close to the header as possible. I was going to go to Canadian Tire and see what flex's they have. As long as its 2.25 I should be fine.

 

dbl post...

 

you should go with 2.5 it will keep the exhause from bottlenecking so close to the engine

 

Eventhough everything else is 2.25? That wont make it hiccup and cause more chatter when reving down?

 

I would have to disagree with bada3. Just keep everything 2.25 if its already what you have. I am under the impression that you don't really need more than 2.25in on a NA Zetec w/ basic bolt-ons. if you need less backpressure you can always to 2.5in out the back with a big 4in tip. doing a chambered type thing with small then big then small again seems kind of wierd, don't think it would help.

 

I agree with you. I think I might just order a stainless flex 2.25 with the flanges already welded on off central motorsport in florida. 140$ plus shipping etc.

FociBoi121: if you read back I already said I had debated on them but decided against it to get a turbo, and they run better with stock cams because thats what the bolt on turbo was tested with.

 

yes get a set of cams while you are at it
def worth the time and money

 

I have dynoed at 130whp on two separate times. I have a 70mm TB, K&N intake, 2 piece UdP, 4-2~1 race headers, 2.25 or 2.5 flex pipe I cant remember, custom exhaust with 2.5 hi-flo cat, SCT chip, 2000 intake manifold, and I think thats it.

 

Thats cool. I would have thought that the 70mm TB would be only for a turbo application... and howcome you have a stage 5 clutch? That must be rough, no? The stage 2 clutch is good until atleast 250hp. Im looking at possibly the Spec stg 1 clutch and flywheel kit.

Where did you find the torsen diff and for how much? I guess if it was awhile ago it would make a difference now but... thats a nice upgrade.

 

most of the race header flex combos off ebay such as the focus central one i have come with a 2.5 in flex it allows for less back pressure but you get enough from when it goes to the 2.25 exhaust

 

Each zetec starts out very different in respect to power output. I've had two different motors in my car and each one had a totally different power band than the other. The Cam Gears were the best mod I have ever did (after dyno tune of course my butt dyno was way way off) next to getting rid of the stock manifold and cat.

 

Yeah I have heard that its all how you take care of it in the early days. And from what I have read, and mentioned in an earlier post, that in Sport Compact Mag they said the adjustable cam gears made a big diff. But they said because there are no spindles on the cams, you have to eye it out putting on the cam gears. So what I mean is, if I have my intake set at -2 adn the exhaust at -4, yours could be different, because we didnt both start at the same "0".

I assume you put the cam gears on the stock cams?