You've got a spark issue, when's the last time plugs/wires were replaced? Take your coil pack off and check the back for tiny cracks, those can cause a misfire

 

I got this car from my brother after he got a new engine put in 3 or 4 years ago, since then it has been one problem after another. I will take a look at the coil and wires!

 

All cars are like that at some point in their lives, some sooner then others. Wires can only be checked thoroughly by testing resistance, look at the plugs and if they arnt looking too good get 4 motorcraft sp463s, about $12 and are apparently the best you can put in a focus. Mine work well. Might not be the problem, but they are a matinence part and it can eliminate the chance of it being an easy fix.

 

So I took a look at the coil and at first I couldn't see anything. When it got a little bit darker while the engine was running I could actually see a spark from in between a crack on the plastic of the coil. So I believe that is my problem i'll be getting a part from rockauto, i'm curious if anyone has had any issues from rockauto parts? Thank you all for responses.

 

The coils are crap in almost any brand, they don't last that long. The design gets too hot then moisture gets in the cracks and your spark there. Shorting out.

 

Well I got a good price for a decent coil at a junk yard and was on my way. Before I left I wanted to break mine free so that I could verify that I was bringing the right tool and get my bearings before standing in the heat at the yard, when I dropped my tool and torx bit. It landed on a shelf under the battery and above the trans. I tried reaching onto the shelf from below and broke a very corroded trans oil cooler line. The junk yard closed at 4 and I don't imagine it is open on Sunday so we'll see how this goes on Monday! Any ideas how to get my bit head out from inside the engine area without removing anything with too much difficulty? I will remove whatever is necessary...

 

A magnet would be best, before you take that coil pack home check it closely for cracks or you'll be in the same spot you're in now

 

Well I removed the old coil and made careful note of where the lines go (they have numbers on them), although 2 of the screws/bolts that are of torx type are completely stripped and rusted to the point I can't remove them without alot of difficulty. The old coil is horribly cracked on the top plastic. There is a significant crack through the bottom of what looks like some sort of plastic epoxy to seal the bottom? My question is does the coil need all the screws to be fully functional or can I try to fasten the coil down to the base plate by another method?

 

The coil does not need all the mounting screws/bolts to be "fully functional" as the coil mounting plate is simply that i.e. it does not act as an electrical ground, for example. You could probably get away with two bolts, preferably the ones on opposite corners. Of course, ideally you should have all four. And there's no reason they need to be torx head bolts; regular bolts with the same thread will work just fine (they're metric).

If your old coil has a significant crack in the bottom epoxy coat, then that is the likely cause of your misfire problem. Coil electrical connector would be the next thing to examine if you see no improvement after coil replacement.

 

Grabbed a "new" coil from the junkyard and cleaned the mud and rainwater out with WD40 and compressed air, then added a nice glob of contact grease and connected the plugs. Dropped a tool when trying to install the coil and instead of falling to the ground it landed on top of something in a terrible place to retrieve. While trying to reach and grab it I broke a corroded metal line with my wrist. After some research and replacements I fixed the trans oil cooler line with a new universal line fitting and a nice long tube. All in all, not a bad repair job. Started up with no chugging at acceleration (which was no surprise with how horrendously cracked the old coil was after taking it off and inspecting it) and no lack of power. I do have some concerns because every once in awhile the engine hesitates for a good 1.5 - 2.5 seconds which leads me to believe there may still be a problem with my coil or plugs???

Thank you all for you suggestions and assistance. I'm not sure if I am supposed to create a new Thread for my last question about the hesitation with starting, but if not does anyone know where I should look at to try and resolve my next problem?

 

Not knowledgeable on this, just asking. How "new" was the coil pack and how much did the junkyard charge for it? I only ask because you see an improvement to your problem with a used part in better condition. If it's still acting up you might need an actually new part? With the environment these work in and the voltage potential they produce for spark, it doesn't take much to compromise the insulation around them and give you problems.

 

Well it looks pretty damn nice, the old coil I replaced only had a tiny crack at first notice, but, the thing was cracked in 6 or 7 places, with deep cracks spreading in every direction. even the epoxy looking seal on the bottom had a crack in it! The new one I inspected thoroughly and it has not even the tiniest crack anywhere on it all around the top, sides and bottom. The inside has no corrosion and the new coil completely resolved the chugging while accelerating and major lack of power from the engine. The junkyard gave it to me for 10 dollars.

If there is a problem with the power potential of the new coil, do you know of some test I can perform with a multi meter??

 

I don't, I'm still learning things on these cars, sometimes the hard way. I just thought with having a used part that you might have improved your problem but not completely solved it.