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EchoMaster DRL Kit up for preorder

47K views 132 replies 47 participants last post by  electricbeach  
#1 ·
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#6 ·
Hi, factory fit look like this:

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However they would cost way way more.

[grinking][grinking]
Chris
 
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#15 ·
The difference is you get OEM like replacement pieces for the LED to sit in, you can sell the originals if cost is an issue and recoup some of that cost if you don't want to keep the originals. You also get the control unit that dims when the headlights are on. There is a DIY on how to do it with Phillips LEDs and it is A LOT more steps and risk involved.

I think $250 would be the sweet spot price considering parts, risk, labor and convenience. Since these are a few early adopters that are willing to buy them for slightly more, they can charge more. I would not be surprised if price drops long term. I believe they are $320 if you call echomaster directly(including shipping)

In the end, no matter what their price is, someone is going to think they could be cheaper. It all depends how much risk you want to take cutting out plastic pieces and handling the wiring, and also how much you value your time of doing this.
 
#18 ·
Oh good God, no.

This whole "slap some LEDs somewhere on the front bumper" craze is so tacky. [facepalm]
 
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#22 ·
The red Audi I posted is an A6.

I agree that taste is relative, but it makes for far more interesting conversation when people DON'T keep their opinions to themselves.
 
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#28 ·
Received last week. Installed today. Piano finish is really close to stock, cannot tell unless you look really close, side by side.

Some install tips in the order I ran into them:

The stock trim pieces are not easy to remove. I went with the front approach(rather than taking the under side of the car apart). What worked for me is to locate the clip locations(using the aftermarket piece as a guide) and insert a credit car between the bumper and the trim piece. Then push a flathead screw driver between the credit card and the trim piece, and push the crew driver head towards the trim piece. This approach protects the bumper from getting scratched by the screw driver, as the credit card acts as a barrier. Repeat this for all the clips around the trim piece, and it will finally come out.

The plastic cover at the front of the car that is supposed to cover the cabling, does not come out with 4 screws as described in the directions. Instead there are 4 clips, and even when the clips are removed, I could not lift this plastic. I ended up straightening out a shirt hanger, and running the hanger under the plastic piece the width of the front of the car, and then pulling the DRL cable through to the other side this way.

I did not connect the sensor wire to the parking light. The directions suggest cutting these wires, which would make the install non-reversible. I bought a quick splice adapter, and will go back and quick splice it to the driver's side parking light wire in the near future.

This was my first time doing any type of car lighting install (other than recently changing headlight bulbs to ORAM Night Breaker Plus), and it took me ~2 hours. Since this was my first time, I did a lot of testing. First making sure everything worked outside the car. Then making sure everything worked without tightening any screws. Finally making sure all cabling was nice and tight, and finally closing her up.

Other than the slight disappointment with the install directions (BTW: the directions that come with the kit(Ikea like drawings) are worse than the color install directions pulled from a site that carriers these DRLs online), I am 100% satisfied with the fit, finish and performance of these lights.

As mentioned, I also switched to OSRAM Night Breaker Plus(H11), because I liked their white color without any hint of blue and they were also much brighter than the stock bulb. I may be looking for more "white" bulbs now. The LEDs make them looks more yellow. Any suggestions?

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#30 ·
Thanks for the install tips! They look great! Can you upload some night pics please :)

Edit: Is the LED only located on that part of the trim? Can we get them at the bottom of the trim?
 
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#29 ·
Thanks so much for sharing your information, pictures and tips. Really appreciate it. I think I will order mine from what I saw of yours. I am surprised that Ford didn't do any type of special lighting as they are with their light bars on the edge/taurus etc. or LED's or Xenons. This is just the right touch to help it stand apart from the soon to be large number of these cars on the road.
 
#31 ·
I installed mine tonight. Install went well, but I have a question. I cut wire 12 on both sides per the instructions and connected the drivers side to the power harness, but this has rendered the parking lights inoperative. Is that how these are supposed to work? Is it legal in the US? Surely you should be able to have your parking lights on and DRL's running at 50% power at the same time.

Colin
 
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#35 ·
I bought a set on Ebay also, installed, no controller, found a key on female spade in the fuse box. Out 12 bucks %)
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#47 ·
Hi Ninjaserver.

Doesn't your Focus have the "DRL" (low beams + tails) always on (being a canadian model) ? How did you do to disable them ? Did you do it before installing the kit ?
 
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#42 · (Edited)
Just an update. The DRL's are on. They are awesome looking, a great match (the glossy at least) and seem like a very well made product. One point for all those discussing their rather steep price. The new insert you get is actually nicer looking and more appropriate for the car that the OEM ones even without the lights. If you look the current gloss ones have a backing in the bottom few slats that's is just cheat, matte, black plastic and ditracts from the gloss on the rest. The echomaster product is 100% gloss top to bottom, front to back. Putting them on was super easy save one step. (removing the old pieces) Here's my tips for anyone else going at this.
1) Taking off the old pieces was quite hard and as "TheOS2" said best done with a credit card or similar to save your paint. I would add however that the clips ARE NOT deeply recessed and also don't require near as much to remove as I thought. Problem was I was going in too far trying to pry. So, just a bit in and try is my advice.
2)"TheOS2" had said that the black piece would not come up to run the wiring through and used a coat hanger to feed the wire. I am not sure but on my car the four pop tabs came right out, and the piece lifted right up and laying the wire down was effortless.
3)I also used a connector and tapped in to wire 12. I believe their instructions were designed to nullify your current DRL's and just use the new LED"s


I also installed my lights at night, and I know the auto lighting in the Ford works in mysterious ways. I however did not see any signs that my new LED DRLS were dimming. They seemed one intensity.


As a side note in the kit they sent was a 3 amp fuse. That was not seeming to be necessary. Anyone know what this was for. I put it in anyway.
Thanks
 
#48 ·
Voldar. Yes as a Can model it does have those DRL's. The echo instructions suggest cutting and leaving disconnected the lead to the low beam DRL's and just running the new LED DRL's. I however left the low beam DRL's functional too by just using a quick splice adapter. So didn't disable them at all.
 
#49 ·
I HATE how some places make DRL's mandatory. on some smaller vehicles yea I can see why. But on a HUGE RED SUV .. if you can't see that thing coming down the road, you don't deserve a license lmao. I like the LED's on because they are not like some DRL's that are in the high beam location like some GM's, Honda's, Toyota's.... Who's bright idea was that?
 
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