I assembled the harmonic balancer (not knowing how to align it) and tried to start the engine, but the engine won’t start.

That is what you just did to the motor. The duratec motor has to be timed just right or you will smash all the valves when you start it...obviously an interference motor. You have to pull the valve cover off and take some other steps to time it right. You're right, there aren't any marks on the motor or balancer....another one of Ford's bright ideas. Duratecs run for about $5500. Sorry.

One question, why don't you have full insurance on an 07 model car?!

 

The valves are fine, it’s the serpentine belt, not the timing chain. I’m just trying to find out how to align the harmonic balancer (including the reluctor wheel) when the motor is at number One Top Dead Center.

 

I know. But if you just bolted up the balancer and tried to start it, you smashed the valves. What do you mean by its the serp belt, not the chain?

 

> But if you just bolted up the balancer and tried to start it, you smashed the valves.

Why?

It doesn't sound as if he removed the tiinmg chain cover or messed at all with the timing chain or crankshaft sprocket, so valve timing should be unaffected. Mounting the pully/harmonic balancer incorrectly would simply alter the crankshaft position sensor and mess up the PCM calculations for ignition timing, etc., but would not affect valve movement, i.e., what he did should not affect valve timing.

What am I missing here?

 

Penguin,,, thanks for your input. Glad to have a more optimistic reply. You are saying exactly what I’m trying to understand. The harmonic balancer is an accessory belt pulley and, although, is on the crankshaft, is not part of the valve timing. The valves are run by the timing chain behind the serpentine belt. What I need to know is if the sprocket on the crank for the timing chain is keyed, thus the valve timing would not be affected. If the sprocket is not keyed, removing the harmonic balancer could have thrown off the timing.

 

Glad to have a more optimistic reply.

Call it optimistic or pessimistic, I'm just telling you what has probably happened.

The harmonic balancer is an accessory belt pulley and, although, is on the crankshaft, is not part of the valve timing.

Wrong, wrong, wrong. When you take the balancer off, it releases tension off the timing chain and throws the timing out. It is very much part of the valve timing. I'm a mechanic at Ford. I know what I'm talking about. I have seen this same thing happen many times while working there...the main reason why I know how much a duratec costs.

If the sprocket is not keyed, removing the harmonic balancer could have thrown off the timing.

There is no key way. I'll print out the timing instructions off the Ford site tomorrow. I'll let you know what you can try to do to time your motor, if you haven't already torn it up.

It really sounds like I'm being a dick, but I'm not trying to come off that way. I'm just trying to let you know what has probably happened. Don't touch motor until I get you the Ford directions on how to time.

 

> What I need to know is if the sprocket on the crank for the timing chain is keyed,

You should spend $15 and buy a manual at Pep Boys, Auto Zone, etc.

Here is an excepr from the Chiltons manual:

The pulley and chrankshaft timing gear are not on a keyway, they are held in place by the crankshaft retaining bolt. Make sure the engine is at TDC before the pulley is removed.....

[installing the pulley] Insert a one-inch long 6mm locating bolt through the hole of the pulley, which should be at the bottom when the pulley is in its TD position, and thread it into the timing cover. This locates the pulley exactly in its TDC position. WARNING: The pulley is not keyed to the crankshaft, this procedure is the only way to establish the proper relationship between the crankshaft pulley and the engine, etc., etc.,

Basically, you need to get the engine at TDC, and then use the locating bolt to align the pulley when reinstalling. With the ring poped off I do not know who you can get it back on the pulley in the correct spot, other than to try and get another pulley for a direct comparison... or just buy one from a junkyard. Even if you could get the encoder ring back on in the right spot, I an not sure I would trust it to remain in place, having been removed once.

As you can see, for what you are doing buying a manual as the first step is a very wise move.

 

> What I need to know is if the sprocket on the crank for the timing chain is keyed, You should spend $15 and buy a manual at Pep Boys, Auto Zone, etc. Here is an excepr from the Chiltons manual: The pulley and chrankshaft timing gear are not on a keyway, they are held in place by the crankshaft retaining bolt. Make sure the engine is at TDC before the pulley is removed..... [installing the pulley] Insert a one-inch long 6mm locating bolt through the hole of the pulley, which should be at the bottom when the pulley is in its TD position, and thread it into the timing cover. This locates the pulley exactly in its TDC position. WARNING: The pulley is not keyed to the crankshaft, this procedure is the only way to establish the proper relationship between the crankshaft pulley and the engine, etc., etc., Basically, you need to get the engine at TDC, and then use the locating bolt to align the pulley when reinstalling. With the ring poped off I do not know who you can get it back on the pulley in the correct spot, other than to try and get another pulley for a direct comparison... or just buy one from a junkyard. Even if you could get the encoder ring back on in the right spot, I an not sure I would trust it to remain in place, having been removed once. As you can see, for what you are doing buying a manual as the first step is a very wise move.

You saved me with this instruction

 

Looks like I really screwed up. I never would have imagined that the timing chain sprocket is not keyed to the crankshaft.

It’s hard to find any information on this and manuals don’t cover the newer vehicles. Any information you can provide would be very helpful. Thanks.

 

CAUTION: Do not loosen or remove the crankshaft pulley bolt without first installing the special tools as instructed in this procedure. The crankshaft pulley and the crankshaft timing sprocket are not keyed to the crankshaft. The crankshaft, the crankshaft sprocket and the pulley are fitted together by friction, using diamond washers between the flange faces on each part. For that reason, the crankshaft sprocket and the pulley are fitted together by friction, using diamond washers between the flange faces on each part. For that reason, the crankshaft sprocket is also unfastened if you loosen the pulley bolt. Before any repair requiring loosening or removal of the crankshaft pulley bolt, the crankshaft and camshafts must be locked in place by the special service tools, otherwise severe engine damage can occur.

CAUTION: During engine repair procedures, cleanliness is extremely important. Any foreign material, including any material created while cleaning gasket surfaces, that enters the oil passages, coolant passages or the oil pan can cause engine failure.

Remove the engine front cover. For additional information, refer to Engine Front Cover in this section.
Remove the timing chain tensioner.
Compress the timing chain tensioner and insert a paper clip into the hole.
Remove the bolts and timing chain tensioner.

Remove the RH timing chain guide.

Remove the timing chain.

Remove the bolts and the LH timing chain guide.

CAUTION: Do not rely on the Camshaft Alignment Plate to prevent camshaft rotation. Damage to the tool or the camshaft can occur.

If necessary, remove the bolts and the camshaft sprockets.
Use the flats on the camshaft to prevent camshaft rotation.

Installation

Remove the special tool.

CAUTION: Do not rotate the camshafts. Damage to the valves and pistons can occur.

If the camshaft sprockets were not removed, use the flats on the camshafts to prevent camshaft rotation and loosen the sprocket bolts.

If removed, install the camshaft sprockets and the bolts. Do not tighten the bolts at this time.

Install the LH timing chain guide and bolts.
Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).

Install the timing chain.

Install the RH timing chain guide.

Install the timing chain tensioner and the bolts. Remove the paper clip to release the piston.
Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).

Install the special tool.

CAUTION: The special tool 303-465 is for camshaft alignment only. Using this tool to prevent engine rotation can result in engine damage.

Using the flats on the camshafts to prevent camshaft rotation, tighten the sprocket bolts.
Tighten to 72 Nm (53 lb-ft).



That is per Ford on how to time. Good luck. If you need any more help or pictures, just ask.

 

> Wrong, wrong, wrong. When you take the balancer off, it releases tension off the timing chain and throws the timing out.

Thanks for the info, it makes sense to me now.

But, for him to have damaged the valves, then it means that he would have had to have moved the crankshaft while the pulley was loose, right? Laving two possibilites:

1) The crankshaft was moved in the process of removing and mount the pulley, getting the chain gear out of synch and potentially damaging the valves, depending upon how out of synch it was, or,

2) He appropriately locked the chrankshaft to remove the pulley, meaing the valve timing is OK, but the crankshaft position sensor/timing gear is off, preventing it from starting.

I agree that number one is most likely, but perhaps he has some hope that valve damage has not been done, particularly since the engine never got over "starter speed." But perhaps that's just wishful thinking on my part.

 

valve damage has not been done, particularly since the engine never got over "starter speed." But perhaps that's just wishful thinking on my part.

Starter speed is all it takes and barely moving the crank will throw the timing out. I hope he didn't ruin the motor, but if just bolted the balancer up and started it, its probably not going to be a happy ending.

 

Quick question: Why did Ford design this engine without a keyway?

 

> Why did Ford design this engine without a keyway?

Primarily cost I assume. It might also allow for more precise timing of the valves at the engine factory, since this setup is infinitely adjustable to compensate for any other tolerances in the system, while a keyway is fixed and non-adjustable. Also, if the keyway or the sprocket were to wear, putting some play or slop in the system, it might require a gear replacement or new crankshaft, whereas the no keyway system would not have this issue. No keyway would also add some strength to that area of the crankshaft, but I don't imagine that would be of any real importance.

 

Thanks for your advice and sorry for the late reply. I may have lucked out regarding the engine problem. I compared it to another Duratec, both set at 1st top dead center.
I removed the valve cover and found the intake & exhaust cams were out of alignment, but not enough to harm the motor. Then removed the harmonic balancer so I could properly align the “reluctor” wheel for the crank sensor. (FYI: the gap in the reluctor wheel sets nine teeth clockwise of the crank sensor. In other words, the ninth tooth counter-clockwise from the gap is facing the crank sensor). Maintaining alignment on the cams, harmonic balancer and ensuring number one piston is top dead center, I torqued the bolt on the crank. Put it all back together and the engine started and the car drove fine. Now all I have to do is fix the body work. That’s another story.

 

Glad to see it all worked out for you and there wasn't any valve damage.

Good luck with the body work.