Recently installed a cossie clone intake manifold
I got it online from eBay I believe. pretty cheap at $260 after shipping.
I Spent some time smoothing out the independent cones leading to cyldiner ports. The casting lines and cone inlets were very rough and did not look conducive to quality inlet airflow. I Used a Dremel and eventually emery cloth/sand paper to smooth it out nicely. Setting up the IAC porting was annoying, but not terribly difficult. It came with a few holes drilled, but you have to plug some and drill others out a little depending on how you want to orient your IAC.
lining up the ports took the most time. the 2.5L ports are a good bit larger than the 2.3L/2.0L that the intake manifold was made for. the bottom of both sides of the ports line up, but the cylinder head port is much taller on the bolt pattern. opening up the manifold side of the ports to get as much cross sectional area as possible really seemed to pay off. The car feels wild in the top end. tach runs right up to 7000, which it struggled to do prior.
Very noticeable 'seat of the pants' power improvement above 4,500 rpm. The tach just keeps climbing.
Low end definitely lost some torque, but its almost seemed to enhance the drivability of the car if anything. and the torque/power you get at the top end is well worth it. I do mostly city driving and this mod is still great. having cams, stiffened mounts, and a torquey 2.5 engine in a light car makes low rpm driving annoying at times. the torque lost at cruising rpms smoothed out the experience.
I'd recommend swapping in a cossie clone in if you don't mind spending a lot of time modifying the sloppy casting you get in the mail. Its cheaper because YOU have to do the machine work instead of an expert from cossworth. But if you're putting it on a 2.5L, you're going to be doing port matching any ways. I did it with a nice variety of Dremel bits, calipers, emery cloth, and a steady hand. I also used a conversion plate to buy myself some more space/leeway for my amateur porting craftsman ship and to ensure that manifold seals have a good surface to mate to, but the end had very smooth transitions and runs great. Worth if you have the time.
I didn't take good pictures of the process. only found two mid way snap chat posts. but you can see some of the marks from me grinding down on it.
The pictures don't really provide much info...
I got it online from eBay I believe. pretty cheap at $260 after shipping.
I Spent some time smoothing out the independent cones leading to cyldiner ports. The casting lines and cone inlets were very rough and did not look conducive to quality inlet airflow. I Used a Dremel and eventually emery cloth/sand paper to smooth it out nicely. Setting up the IAC porting was annoying, but not terribly difficult. It came with a few holes drilled, but you have to plug some and drill others out a little depending on how you want to orient your IAC.
lining up the ports took the most time. the 2.5L ports are a good bit larger than the 2.3L/2.0L that the intake manifold was made for. the bottom of both sides of the ports line up, but the cylinder head port is much taller on the bolt pattern. opening up the manifold side of the ports to get as much cross sectional area as possible really seemed to pay off. The car feels wild in the top end. tach runs right up to 7000, which it struggled to do prior.
Very noticeable 'seat of the pants' power improvement above 4,500 rpm. The tach just keeps climbing.
Low end definitely lost some torque, but its almost seemed to enhance the drivability of the car if anything. and the torque/power you get at the top end is well worth it. I do mostly city driving and this mod is still great. having cams, stiffened mounts, and a torquey 2.5 engine in a light car makes low rpm driving annoying at times. the torque lost at cruising rpms smoothed out the experience.
I'd recommend swapping in a cossie clone in if you don't mind spending a lot of time modifying the sloppy casting you get in the mail. Its cheaper because YOU have to do the machine work instead of an expert from cossworth. But if you're putting it on a 2.5L, you're going to be doing port matching any ways. I did it with a nice variety of Dremel bits, calipers, emery cloth, and a steady hand. I also used a conversion plate to buy myself some more space/leeway for my amateur porting craftsman ship and to ensure that manifold seals have a good surface to mate to, but the end had very smooth transitions and runs great. Worth if you have the time.
I didn't take good pictures of the process. only found two mid way snap chat posts. but you can see some of the marks from me grinding down on it.
The pictures don't really provide much info...
