[FocusInCali]

What are you looking to achieve with the system?
If money is no problem, then there are better ways to go.

What do you want in sound + what is your total budget?

 

[FocusInCali]

First, you don't need a cap.
Second, you don't need a cap.

The power output of the BP600.1 amps are 600w RMS at 2ohms, and 300w RMS at 4ohms. The MM124 subs are rated to handle 500w RMS, so one amp per sub will be fine. It looks like the MM124 subs are SVC 4ohm. You may have to call somewhere to make sure. Also, make sure the box is designed for the sub / power combo.

So, according to your numbers, does this mean you have $700+ for components and amp? []
330 - wire and box + 500

You only need front speakers for the "stereo" signal and to keep the stage in front of you. You can keep the 5x7 in the back and run them off the 9807 and only slightly fade them in for ambience or when you have rear seat passengers. Otherwise, you can turn the 9807 internal amp off.

Front Components:
I have a contact for good prices on CDT Audio or DLS.
DLS and ID have better tweeters. (to be picky) []
http://www.dls.se/english/index.htm
Prices are ballpark based on last contact for me.
Contact is Tim at lowrideherz@hotmail.com

$385 UR6
$400 UR6S
$475 Iridium 6.2

$500 UR36S (3-way) would be more to install, but thought I'd add prices
$575 Iridium 6.3

or
Image Dynamics CXS64 $359
http://www.cardomain.com/item/IDSCXS64

or
Adire Audio Koda 6.1 components $349
http://www.adireaudio.com/TextPages/KodaComponentsPageFrameText.htm

or
Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 6.5" components $200 on eBay
$400 at http://www.cardomain.com/item/INFPERFECT61

Amp for Components:

TRU Technology T2.100 ~ $300+ used (best choice, can also get BurrBrown upgrade)
on the forums at http://forum.elitecaraudio.com/forumdisplay.php?forumid=4
or post a WTB for the T2.100 and someone usually shows up with one.

Tim can also get you deals on DLS amps. I'd look into prices on a RA20 or A3.

The TRU and DLS A3 are audiophile amps.
If you want a 100w x2 RMS amp for less money on eBay...

$139 Infinity 7520a (97w x2)
$144 MA Audio HK397 (150w x2)
$149 Soundstream VGA400.2 (100w x2) *
$199 Rockford Fosgate P5002 (125w x2) *
$249 Polk Audio Momo C300.2 (150w x2)

That should give you some ideas.

Did I mention, you don't need a cap.

 

[FocusInCali]

one pushes out 300 rms @4 ohms and 600 @ 2 ohms if wired in parallel. so that means if i wire them in parallel, i would get 300watts rms / sub? and if i ran the amp/sub one amp per sub it woudl still be 300 watts rms / sub @ 4 ohms yeah?

i know this sounds dumb but... there wouldnt be able to run 2 amps on 2 subs to present a 2ohm load would there? b/c that would be 600 rms per channel that would rock! lol

so ur saying running a 4 ch amp w/ 2 channels dedicated to the tweeters and 2 two the wolfers are bad? b/c i can get the amp polk c400 brand new shipped for 200.

shopping for your car is fun ^_^ ... Working for your money and seeing multiple checks get blown in one purchase isnt -_- lol

I was answering your question not knowing if you already have the subs/amps. You are right about running the two SVC 4ohm subs off one amp. If you got a SVC 2ohm or DVC 4ohm sub, then you could run those amps one on one.

Are you kidding? You can bi-amp the tweets/mids with a 4ch amp. You may have to get the Coustic XM6 crossover for around $60 to $100 on eBay for a little more control. The 9807 has front, rear, and subwoofer pre-outs. Since the fronts and rears may not be ideally in sync, you'd have to use the front outputs to drive the tweets/mids and the sub out for the subs. The XM6 would be good for your setup. The Coustic has an external knob level control, so you could run everything off the front channels. It all depends on the setup. Any true Hi/Mid/Low outputs from a HU will have a built-in crossover, like the 9835. The new HU would be way more than buying the XM6 though.

http://www.coustic.com/products/processors/XM6.cfm

Suggested Active Setup with your HU:

9807 - XM6 - 4ch amp - tweets and door woofers
.............. " - Sub amp/s - subs

Opional: If you want to go 3-way up front, then use passives between the tweets and midranges on the front channels, and the midbass on the rear channels (of the 4ch amp). To go fully active, you'd have to get a lower powered 6ch amp, or get a 4ch and a 2ch (4ch x 50 - 65w, and 2ch x 100w). Then the XM6 would divide up the tweet/midrange/midbass duties (provided you have a midrange that could play down to 400Hz). With this setup, the subs would be driven off the 9807 sub pre-out. There's another way to wire it, but it gets tricky. This is only if you absolutely need a full 4-way setup. Harder to install and dial in, but can sound great if done right.

Tell me what all you have now,
what direction you want to go in,
and we'll take it from there.

[thumb]

 

[FocusInCali]

so ur saying running a 4 ch amp w/ 2 channels dedicated to the tweeters and 2 two the wolfers are bad? b/c i can get the amp polk c400 brand new shipped for 200.

The second thing is an amp to power it, im debating on whether to pick up the REF7540A amp http://www.infinitysystems.com/cara...ct.aspx?ProdId='REF7540A'&Ser=REF&Cat=AMP from infinity, which is a 111 rms amp at 4 ohms, or a friend was saying that the polk c400.4 amp http://www.polkaudio.com/car/product.php?name=c400_4 would be better. my friend said that the polk amp suppsedly has more control than the infinity, he said to just hook up the two components to the amp and dont use the provided x over if i get the kappa perfects; just wire the tweeters and wolfers seprately. Or should i just use the x overs and hook up my rear infinity 5x7 to the amp as well and just use the x over provided. Like the other one, price is no objection, i just want to know what is better. and which one i should do.

Regarding components... I was answering your above two inquiries. I gave specific answers and options to those.

As far as subs/amps...

The power output of the BP600.1 amps are 600w RMS at 2ohms, and 300w RMS at 4ohms. The MM124 subs are rated to handle 500w RMS, so one amp per sub will be fine. It looks like the MM124 subs are SVC 4ohm. You may have to call somewhere to make sure

Yes, you can run two MM124 subs off of one BP600.1 amp for 300w each. Or, you could get two different subs. Subs that are SVC 2ohm, or DVC 4ohm, to pull 600w each from their own amp.

So, you can use 1200w from those two amps if you have the right subs and wiring config to do so.

Or, you could get a single amp to deliver 1000w RMS at 2ohm to use for those two subs wired parallel. Something like the Hifonics Brutus BX1500D for $239.

That's why I asked what you have now. So we can match the right gear to it. I don't know if you have the subs and need an amp, or you have the amps and need subs. Which is it?

 

[FocusInCali]

If you build the right box, you'll be surprised at the output of those two subs with 300w each from the JBL600. Use what you have, you can always upgrade later if you want more.

I think your first upgrade will be the front speakers and amp.
Use the above info to decide what you want.

I'd keep your 5x7s in the rear on the 9807 for passengers or slight ambient rear fill. You may find yourself turning the internal 9807 amp off all together when not using the rear speakers. It will be cooler with less distortion.

Really nice front components with good matched power, your sub combo will integrate quite nicely. If you later want big SPL, then you could get another JBL600 and different subs.

But first do the front-stage.
Have you researched any of the above component speakers or amps?
Any decisions on which ones to get?