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Bullet Proof Engine

5.9K views 20 replies 10 participants last post by  pliznyk  
#1 ·
Hey guys, I had some crap happen to me. While coasting, clutch in, it backfired through the intake and blew it right off the boots splattering oil up in my TB and ram air. Figured possible timing issue, but the belt was beautiful. Also figured bad rings, but whatever, nows the time to go all out.
I got the head off and the engine compartment stripped, now I want a bullet proof engine.
first, head work, obvious port and polish, but can I have it shaved, is there tolerance for much? I'll do cams, springs and oversized valves, anyone got specs for what would be ideal?
then engine, Bored and sleeved with whole new interior, I'll have a machine shop do the work, but again dont know the specifics to ask for. Recomendations? How much would I want it bored? what sleeves? pistons? all that stuff. It's gonna take me awhile, pieces and parts, here and there as I get the money so I was hoping to accumulate a list of what I should go with, brands, type of metal sizes, whatever suggestions for a straight out bad ass engine. I don't know if I'll ever turbo it or run nos or even supercharge it, but I want it bullet proof just incase. [thumb]
 
#4 ·
I'd love to have a " cost no object" svt engine, unfortunately the objet of cost is a factor of time. I can't afford the cosworth crank at four grand, so I'm having the original balanced and shaved. I'll get pistons one month and rods another. this is gonna take some time to do. There is already on the market about the best you can do with the zetec pushin 290 bhp n/a just the engine, can't afford that either though.
Right now I've got the head in the shop being planed, ported, polished and new valves seated.
I just want an engine that can hold upto a 24 lb boost with no problem, but I don't know if I'll ever add that boost. I just like to beat the tar outta my car and I want it to hold up when I do.

I want over-revs High 8's on the tach for serious gear jammin on the dirt, my plan is an all out rally car mostly for my enjoyment. I want a big kids toy Tonka tough. A little higher compression maybe 12 to 1, power band between 4 and 8 grand is fine but I'll be keepin it tached up there alot.
 
#6 ·
The engine is pretty bulletproof as it is... it can hold well over 300whp on its own. Besides, you blew off the intake manifold, not destroyed the motor. Just put it back on. [;)]
 
#7 ·
I am extremely hard on my SVT, I break and fix my car as regularly scheduled maintainence. I usually try to replace the broken parts with something halfway unbreakable (as if there were such a thing). I snapped both sway bar links and went with moog steel links, snapped the motor mounts and put in the red poly ones. This time it turned out to be a twisted intake boot that caused a malfuction in the pcv, which released oil into my intake and pistons. so I guess for right now I'm doin from the head up.
I'm hoping maybe someone had some knowledge of upgradables from head gasket to intake and everything in between.
I enjoy my car very much and would like to take it higher in the rpm's. I'm under the impression that more gas, more air, and higher rpms would be very hard on the engine (and of course the tranny), so I will need something that can hold up.
So does anyone know how I could get seriously high rpm's with a drive train that will hold up to that?
 
#9 ·
Swaybar links and motor mounts are wear items; lots of people have had to replace them without even beating on their cars. A twisted manifold connector sounds like it was installed incorrectly, and the backfire was caused by the PCV blockage as a result. So really, your car is holding up just fine except for an incorrectly installed part.

The MT285 trans can take lots of abuse, too; as it's more than capable of keeping up with a boosted application. The clutch will need to be upgraded, but I'd consider that the only necessity for the trans aside from maintenance items like the clutch slave. The axles are pretty bulletproof as well; putting power to the ground at well above 300whp, just like the engine.

The SVT drivetrain is no slouch. Revving to almost 9k though, that's a different story; one I couldn't say what all of the downsides could be. I know the oil pump will need to be upgraded with billet gears or it has the potential to shatter above 7500 or so. Gram-balancing the rods and pistons might be necessary; possibly a custom crank damper pulley, too, to manage the increased harmonic vibrations. As for the valvetrain, I'm not sure how that would react spinning that fast. It's a solid tappet setup which helps, but you will need to experiment with springs and retainers to get the most out of the increased RPMs. And if you want oversized valves, they would need to be custom ordered through Ferrea. All of this will end up costing big money... if I recall correctly, the +1mm valves were something like $600; and I'm not even sure if that was for the whole head or just one cam. As for the spark and fuel timing... I have no idea what the ECU can do, but you'd have to keep that in mind on top of everything else.

In any case, if you do go this route, keep us in the loop. I'd love to see an almost 9k rpm Zetec hitting the streets. I doubt it'll be cheap, but I wish you luck.
 
#10 ·
thanks for the luck, I could use it. I don't really know what I'm talking about as far as what it will take, that's kind of what I'm asking about. how could I do this, I got about $200 a week pretty consistantly to do this with. Im sure it will take some money I was just hoping to avoid the experimentation. Like oil pump, dang if I didn't think about that I'd be replacing the whole engine. And as far as ECU, can't I piggy back an msd 7 or 8? How would I get the custom crank damper? What gram would i want the balanced rods and pistons?
I want a svt taching 9k on the streets. it's not impossible right? I buy parts and have the machining done, i can put it all together. I found a copper self sealing head gasket for $180 and I'd probably need some heavy duty cam bearing caps right? heavy duty crank bearings, lighter crank, and from what I hear the zetec can hold up to alot already, can it hold up to 9k?
 
#14 ·
you don't need to do that, you don't have cams that can make power that high. pretty much pointless, just go boost, cheaper and more power!
 
#15 ·
this^^^.

but a nasty NA motor is cool. why do you need to rev to 9? 7500 can make good power with out being ridiculous to build. sounds like you have a pretty tight budget with 200 a week. also i did not read all of the posts and i don't know if this was already said. If you build a high compression engine you can not turbo it without lowering compression. NA= high comp FI= low comp.
 
#17 ·
well, I got my head back on gotta do the timing still, but I guess I'm gonna buy another engine and build it in the house. I'm a lil confused though, Haynes has my engine as a svt duratec, but others as an svt built zetec. I need a svt engine preferably blown valves or something cheap but still buildable so I can just keep running my car and we're gonna sell my wifes sony edition.
My end goal is a chevy focus RS-8 but thats gonna take more money and time. so for now I just want to build a bad ass play toy that I can blow up on another day.
I got all up in my engine and the cost of N/A performance, it's nuts. I couldn't believe how built the engine is from the factory, wow. But the parts... oem aint bad, performance is costly.
I was thinking higher revs would add to the peak power and peak adrenaline.
 
#18 ·
"DuratecST" is the European badging of the SVT motor, that's where the confusion comes from. The motor in the 2003-2004 Focus RS was called "DuratecRS", but both motors were Zetecs. It's all silly marketing crap. As long as it says SVT or ST170 somewhere, it's the right manual.
 
#19 ·
OK, I got my engine all back together and it ran beautifully for a half hour or so and then back to the original problem. Oil is being sucked into my intake from the hose out of the valve cover, filling my pistons up and detnating causing my Intake manifold to blow off.
I guess its probably gonna be either pcv system problems or rings. I did notice that my #3 piston top was burnt up pretty bad and #2 a little, sounds like rings, but then wouldn't I lose compression, yet its building enough to blow the IM right off.
I also thought maybe its time for a new air filter. Could a clogged up AF cause it to suck from the head? does any of this sound familiar? is there a thread for this worth checking out? could it be simply my pcv malfunctioning or am I looking at buying a new engine and rebuilding this one?
What ya got for me Tom, I'm not too far from ya?
 
#21 ·
yup, pulled the breather tube off the intake and been driving it all morning without problem. crazy but I guess cheap clogged air filters suck from the crankcase vent.
the days turnin out great, replaced all the tires and found a brand new set of svt rims for a hundred bucks.