so, its tomorrow. UPDATES OR BAN

 

1st update: I just gathered all the tools needed for the job. I'll start working on that right now.

 

yay for timing loss!

good luck bro

 

Ok, I had confidence that I could do it right. Now, if something goes wrong I'm going to blame you and you will have to give me your built motor[hihi]

 

2nd update: I haven't even pulled the old ones yet and I'm already tired.

 

haha nice, well hope it all goes well n u give us how it feels after a god run

 

when you change udps do you have to get a smaller belt also?

 

The CFM udp comes with a larger than stock water pulley so you don't have to replace the belt, but since I'm trying to instal the lightweight alt and water pump pulleys from darkstar I need a smaller belt.

 

generally yes

 

the way i understood the CFM kit was the underdrive crank pulley and the larger water pump pulley equal out so the stock belt can stay.

 

Engine is gone [V]

 

huh?

 

what??? what did you do??? i did this on my svt and it was just simple ... take it off, put the new one... or i got lucky???...

 

the svt/zetec cranks are keyed... dura's are not. so of course its easy on an svt. lol

 

i think he's just f[]cking with us in the fhg way...or he actually pwnd his motor..

 

damn this emotionless keyboard...he could be screwing with us like he does with everything and hes sitting there with a sinister laughter as his car's headlight dim with udp evil....or hes just crying holding his old crank pulley in dispair cursing the FF community
lol after all, we all know we push eachother farther with mods

 

Ok, update of the day. I wish I was messing with you guys but I had some trouble yesterday. As of today I haven't finished, let me tell you that this is not a one man job, you at least need an extra pair of experienced hands. Second, changing the crank pulley is a pain in the ass. Is not that easy to take out the old one, I had to remove the tire and axle to have more clearance, space an leverage. I followed CFM's instructions step by step and I thought that I was doing it right, but when I wanted to start the car it just wouldn't. It was really a pain not only in the ass but it felt more like a continuous inverse nut kick all the time it took me to figure out the correct timing. Right now I don't even now if it will start again. When I cranked the car I didn't hear any weird noises like if the valves met pistons at some point, and I cranked it several times until I found the correct timing, so hopefully my engine will still run fine. I'll update as soon as I finish.

 

What the heck do you mean you cranked the engine until you found the correct timing? This is not a hit or miss proposition here. It's got to be correct plus or minus about a degree. When you put no. 1 piston at TDC on the compression stroke you better make damn sure the camshafts ARE where they are supposed to be before "lighting this thing off"! Crashing pistons and valves together is one thing, but if you ain't bang on, this thing will either not run or it'll run like crap.

 

So after reading all this, I think theres a really good chance that your valves are bent...even if slighty bent. How did you "adjust" your timing "until you got it right"? If you just kept on trying to crank the car, it probably bent the valves.



^^yeah, what he said.

Monday morning I will start playing with timing again. I know I'm pretty close to the correct timing so it is just a matter of time. Unfortunately I was so busy trying to find the problem that I didn't notice the sound on the engine. Now everytime I start the car some knocking noise comes from the engine, a sound really similar to that of a diesel engine. After it warms up for a while the sound lowers, but if I get closer to the engine I can still hear it... Any ideas?

How are you "playing" with the timing? If you aren't dead on, its off enough to bend valves. There is no pretty close.

 

do you not have an impact of some sort? to get the crank pulley off? shouldnt need that much room, but if you had to use a breaker bar, i could see that... hope it goes better.

 

well, test drove it and it runs ok but lacking of power. It doesn't have any symptoms, just feels like it lacks of air or gas. I'll try to find a compression tool and o a compression test right now.

 

BTW? what #s should I be looking for in the compression test? What would be normal in my car?

 

A compression check may not tell you squat. The valve timing may be out some because of your apparent lack of power........why not just remove the camshaft cover and physically check it? With the Duratec do you know how to accurately find TDC? How did you hold the crankshaft when you torqued the pulley bolt and you're sure that you torqued it to spec.?

 

Right now I'm performing a compression test just to make sure the pistons didn't hit the valves. I just want to disregard that possibility. Will be back with the results soon.

 

Wow...I will never be getting pullies lol

 

Ya i agree unless i'll have a perfessanl do it then i can point my finger right at him[hah]

 

Cyl #1

Trial 1. 130lb (haven't used the tester in a while)
Trial 2. 148lb

Cyl #2

Trial 1. 135lb
Trial 2. 148lb

Cyl #3

Trial 1. 149lb
Trial 2. 148lb

Cyl #4

Trial 1. 137lb
Trial 2. 140lb

How does that look?

 

bump

 

Looks fine. I agree with what was said above. Your timing is just off slightly. The valves aren't opening at the optimum time resulting in your power loss.

 

148 does not seem bad. If cam timming is off just a couple of degrees it will effect power.