And I guess while I'm under there, anybody tried using a slam hammer on the trailing arm outer bolt? Inner came out just fine, outer turns, but I can't get straight in the back side to drive it out with a punch.

Aw hell, might as well redo the sway bar end links I just did maybe 18mo ago that now look worse than the originals. Recommendations on those, and how tight should they actually be?

 

And I guess while I'm under there, anybody tried using a slam hammer on the trailing arm outer bolt? Inner came out just fine, outer turns, but I can't get straight in the back side to drive it out with a punch.

Trailing arm or lower control arm? (which are two different things). Trailing arm is 2. LCA is 5.

Paul

 

The moog springs are constant rate, not a variable rate. Spring is the same for the ZX3 and the ZX5. 80099

 

can anyone tell me the right Moog PN for this car?

Moog catalog shows 2 pns for rear springs: 80099 and 80135. RA catalogs shows the same. Both springs show for 2000-2004 Focus. Specs are similar but it looks like 80099 is slightly softer. Moog spec says they should be a little over 14 inches free length, 4.25 inches OD, and .43 inch wire diameter. What do the ones you have measure?

For reference here is a picture of the rear spring from my 2005 ZX4 which is essentially similar to the 00-04 spring (slightly larger .45 inch wire diameter but same free length and OD). The lower control arm was a 'little' rotted but the spring was fine and I reused it with the new arm.

Paul

 

Moog catalog shows 2 pns for rear springs: 80099 and 80135. RA catalogs shows the same. Both springs show for 2000-2004 Focus.

OK, I got 80135s, but what's on there only has six coils, and looks way shorter even with the suspension completely unloaded. As in the Moog looks like it'll have to be compressed a lot just to get everything back together.

I'll yank the wheel back off sometime this weekend and get some photos. I suppose it's possible I'm not on stock suspension anymore, but it seems unlikely from the previous owner. (Maybe they weren't first, though: I didn't bother asking since the car was $600 running.) I hsve replacements for all three arms, and they look the same, but of course I can't really measure things out until I get the old ones out.

 

Thanks to whatever idiots thought 12 point sockets even had some excuse for existing, the bolt head for the lower control arm is now even more round than Ford's standard melted butter impressionist sculpture of a hex-like form. Looking around town to correct my tool bag, three different places only sell regular sets in 12 point. Six point in deep, but of course that comes with the problem of the wrench head being unnecessarily far back from the bolt, levering the socket sideways.

Adding to the stupidity, every extractor set OReilly and AutoZone have in stock locally lacks a 15mm. I can't see 9/16 or 5/8 working well, since 15 is pretty much dead center between them. Not a "gee, we sold out of the useful sets" issue either: I remember having the same problem trying to find one for a previous car, and every set skipped very common sizes.

Anybody got the specs on that bolt?

 

Can you be more specific of what bolt you are working on?

BTW all impact sockets are six point.
Paul

 

The smart thing to do if you cant get a socket to sit straight is to use a box/open wrench combo. Use a larger wrench to add leverage.

 

That lower control arm always sits like that.

Keep in mind that all the bolts that go thru the control arms and into the trailing arm (rear knuckle) go into nuts that are welded (captivated) to the trailing arm. Also those bolts/nuts all have locktite on them from the factory so you need to heat them up really hot before you try to remove them.

The bolt that attaches the outboard end of the rear lower arm (large arm with spring) is Ford W500746S439 (M12 x 75)

Paul

 

I gotta remember to try the torch on everything first. At least last time I did remember to soak everything with Sea Foam Deep Creep the day before, but I doubt that does anything at all to loctite.

Got the elusive 15mm extractor and my Moog sway bar end links in, so I think that's the final part for this round. Just need to find some time to do the work.

 

Well, of course the bolt is seized into the bushing so hard even my best Tonya Harding Special and a pin punch couldn't get it to budge. New bolt should come in Monday, and then I get the fun of figuring out how to cut the old one out without damaging the knuckle.

Driver side went smooth, though. Looks like I gave up 1/4 of the way through putting a 3" lift kit on. Hopefully all the gnawing, prying and bashing didn't leave anything in a too-unsafe condition for the drive to work and the parts counter Monday.

 

and then I get the fun of figuring out how to cut the old one out without damaging the knuckle.

Im not going to tell you this was easy because it was not - at least for me - but I was able to replace my rear control arms myself in my driveway. Ive done one side on my (now scraped) 02 wagon and both sides on my 05 ZX4. This was a few years ago and Im not sure I could do it today as my arthritis is much worse.

To cut out these control arms Ive used a reciprocating saw (sawzall) and a thin cutoff wheel and found the thin cut off wheel to be easier. If you go with a saw be certain to use a carbide blade. Either way you need to cut so that you do not cut into the trailing arm. Click on pics for larger.

After the the arm is out you still need to deal with the small piece of the outer bolt that remains in the welded nut on the trailing arm. It is held in with thread lock from the factory so you need to heat it with a torch then work it out by grabbing the end of it with a vice grips.

Once I got it moving I cut a slit in the cut end and used a large screwdriver to back it out

Paul

 

Ok, in case I trash it cutting the bolt, what else is the knuckle/trailing arm called? Looking online for "rear knuckle" or "trailing arm" finds literally everything else except that part. I could literally build out the complete four wheel suspension from hits on those searches, except for that part.

Oh wait, I take that back: I've also not found the rubber bump stop that goes on the rear LCA. Nothing wrong with mine now, but why the hell is that part impossible to buy? It's nerve wracking trying to get it off knowing that if it's damaged the only option for replacement is wandering around the local scrapyard hoping they've gotten a compatible Focus since last time I looked, and then having to spend the time there to pull the darn thing. (No doubt after dealing with an equally seized bolt but without the benefit of having electricity nearby.) Though FWIW, some Deep Creep and a pickle fork took the left one off quick and easy.

 

Ok, in case I trash it cutting the bolt, what else is the knuckle/trailing arm called? Looking online for "rear knuckle" or "trailing arm" finds literally everything else except that part. I could literally build out the complete four wheel suspension from hits on those searches, except for that part.

Ford 4S4Z-5A968-AC Knuckle And Hub Assembly (R).
Ford 4S4Z-5A969-AC Knuckle And Hub Assembly (L).

These fit 00-07 non-wagon. And I dont think there is any aftermarket equivalent.

Oh wait, I take that back: I've also not found the rubber bump stop that goes on the rear LCA. Nothing wrong with mine now, but why the hell is that part impossible to buy? It's nerve wracking trying to get it off knowing that if it's damaged the only option for replacement is wandering around the local scrapyard hoping they've gotten a compatible Focus since last time I looked, and then having to spend the time there to pull the darn thing. (No doubt after dealing with an equally seized bolt but without the benefit of having electricity nearby.) Though FWIW, some Deep Creep and a pickle fork took the left one off quick and easy.

I do not think Ford sells it separately. You just pry off your old one and transfer it to the new arm.

Paul

 

Ok, after cutting both bolts, I now have both LCAs and both springs replaced. Left wheel is still insane on camber though: it leans in visibly while sitting on level pavement, and of course, eats the inside tread, same as before. Adjustment bolt is cranked in as far as it will pull. (And yes, I did turn it 180 degrees to make sure I wasn't just misunderstanding something.)

Going to have to cut and replace bolts for the upper and lateral arms, so I'm thinking I may just get all of the bolts for both sides and make a fresh start with anti seize.

Anything else I should check? Wheel doesn't feel wobbly like a near-dead bearing. Spins smooth, quiet and steady. I'd like to get this fixed and get a proper alignment before it kills the current tire, so I won't have to do more creative rotating to ruin the worst tire instead of the newest again.

 

Going to have to cut and replace bolts for the upper and lateral arms, so I'm thinking I may just get all of the bolts for both sides and make a fresh start with anti seize.

The bolts for these arms - both ends - are Ford W500744S439 (ie 4 per side). These bolts all go into nuts welded to the rear cross member or trailing arm.

Odd that its out that much with the LCA adjustment cam turned all the way in. Can you post some pics?

Are you going to use aftermarket adjustable toe arms?

Paul

 

Woke up early this morning and decided to take advantage of the 60 degree weather to try to swap out the upper control arm, since the only seized bolt I know of right now is the lateral arm outer bolt. Went pretty smoothly, and in the process I noticed the camber bolt was in what I'd call the neutral position with the wide part of the washer straight up. Must not have torqued it last time. Cranked that back over, torqued everything and there's a definite improvement. Still looks a bit off, but definitely better. I'll try to find some flat concrete after church for a more accurate assessment.

Super noticeable difference in stiffness since swapping the springs, though; my earlier eyeball estimate that the car looked like I'd done a 3" lift was with all the tools, jacks, jack stands, spare tire etc. still out of the back. With its usual load I'd guess it's only about an inch up, but I'm feeling every bump, and some pretty violent, though I haven't felt the extra jolt of hitting the bump stops, which is an improvement. (There are a couple of really nasty hidden bumps from half-done construction nearby. I'm not the only one I've seen pulled over just after it counting to make sure all the wheels are still there.)

 

Ok, we all know how inaccurate eyeball alignment estimates can be, but I'd swear the darn thing is toed out a bit now.
The bolts should be here mid week, so hopefully I can get that lateral arm cut out and replaced soon. I know the outer bushing's liner is seized to the bolt, and my cranking on it has definitely ripped something loose since I can turn the bolt, just not get it out. It seem like mangling that bushing could easily cause a toe issue.

If that doesn't get it, I guess I'll have to swap the upper with an adjustable one.

 

You should be able to source flange bolts at the big box hardware stores. Bolt should be an M12 x 65. Thread pitch I believe is 1.75--you can verify that with the bolt that you removed successfully. Be sure the non threaded portion isn't too long or you won't be able to tighten the bolt enough.

If you do go that route, please post the thread pitch--I have this job ahead of me this summer...

 

They are M12 x 1.75. Buy the Ford bolts.

Paul

 

Well crap; the tire is now bald on the inside edge, so the camber issue is definitely not my imagination.

All three control arms and the spring replaced, and the adjustment bolt for the LCA is cranked as far in as it'll go, and still in the same position I left it in when the tire was worn but not bald a few weeks ago. Any other suggestions before I burn the extra cash on an adjustable upper arm?

 

I assume you had a 4 wheel alignment after replacing all of the parts?

 

Make sure it has sway bar brackets as some early models did not have one.

 

I also believe all Mk3 (2012+) will work with a change to the rubber exhaust hanger over the subframe, excluding the RS.
[/QUOTE]

FWIW, I read on this forum what heat says above about the Mk3 subframe--I have one waiting for me for this job.

As to your problem, it sounds like your springs aren't stiff enough. if I understand correctly, you bought new springs which were much taller than the old springs. That is a bit mystifying...

 

Got a lead on a subframe a couple hours away. Running a couple questions by the seller, and if I like the answers I'll be heading up to get it probably over the holiday weekend.

Anybody know the specs for the mounting bolts? Given the condition of the control arm bolts, I'm not holding out much hope that all of the subframe bolts will be reusable. Hopefully won't need a full set, but 1-2 spares would be good for peace of mind.

Am I going to have room to do this with jack stands under the pinch welds?

How much profanity should I tell the neighbors to ignore? How far should I expect to throw my 3lb cross peen persuader at each stage of the repair?

Haven't had any trouble with the hubs or brakes, but both are also 20 years old, so is either difficult enough to replace completely on their own that I should consider adding them to this job?

 

It is not a bad job but If you are in the rust belt expect a struggle. Here in Texas the bolts will still be anodized when you take them out. I've seen a thread on the bolt specs, let me see if I can find it.

 

Yes you can do it easily on jackstands.

 

If you are under 150k miles then the hubs may be fine and you can check the brake pads but if it were me and is functioning well and quiet. Leave it alone.

 

I'm in San Leon on Houston Bay.

 

If you need a procedure for pulling the rear suspension as an assembly in less than an hour let me know.

 

That would be helpful. Trying to either get someone nearby to grab it so I can pick it up outside the seller's hours, or coordinate with my neighbor to grab it on his way to Dallas this week. I'd like to get it done over the holiday weekend so I can put some new tires on before doing a little backpacking and day hiking the 13-16th. (Colorado Bend SP and Inks Lake SP)

 

1) Support rear on jackstands as high as possible. 2) Remove rear wheels. 3) Remove rear shocks. 5) Release parking brake and pull the boot up. Use a socket and back the adjusting screw on the lh side out 5 or 6 revolutions. 5) Pull back heat shield from underneath the parking brake cable. Remove rear cables from the mid link. 6) Remove 2 front trailing arm bolts from both sides. Fyi. If you remove the rear seat and pull back the carpet you can spray the bolts. 7) Unclip vapor recovery charcoal canister and hang from a wire. 8) Unscrew each rear rubber brake hose from the metal hose. 9) Disconnect the abs sensor from the wiring connector. 10) Loosen but dont remove all 6 subframe bolts. Place Jack underneath middle of subframe. Remove bolts and lower watching for the charcoal canister to clear.

 

If I've forgotten anything someone help me out. It is very helpful to have a sheet of plywood for it to lower onto and then pull it out from underneath the car.

 

 

Well, it's out, and the new one has been shot with some undercoating, all the bolts for the subframe and other parts have been wire brushed, sway bar mounted and torqued, and all the control arm bolts with unthreaded shanks have been given a coat of anti seize. About to go figure out what I did with the Loctite after I put the sway bar bolts in, and start putting everything back on the car.