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Focusmach

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
First time poster . just purchased my brother a 2013 focus del 5 speed for graduation. Car has 45k on it and runs amazing. There's only 1 issue that I've noticed and I've searched , but I only find post posts about the dtc auto and not the manual .

The issue I found is , is if you shift quickly between the 1-2 and 2-3 gear changes , at full throttle, there seem to be a clutch slip feel for a split second, but no other gears and you can't make the clutch slip any other time . also if you do the same shift , but wait 1 second between the shift , it pulls strong .

My question is , is there anyone else who have had clutch issues ? Also I know some newer fords have clutch protection built into the computer as a safety feature , does the focus have this ? Any ideas would be appreciated.

Josh
 
I don't really notice a slip, but coming from a 2001 manual car, it feels like the computer does mess with the engine and clutch a lot. If found I basically only have rest my foot on the gas pedal while shifting and just let the clutch out and it goes fine. But it kinda acts weird if I blip the throttle while shift gears.
 
mine's slipped slightly since about 30k miles, and gotten worse. For instance if I'm playing around in the rain, acting like an ass, and spin through first, quickshift second, then grab third, it the tires don't break loose, the clutch will just spin instead of pulling down rpms.

be careful how hard your treat it and it'll work fine, but once the clutch gets hot, even in normal stop and go driving, trying to bang gears is a no-no.
 
wish was that it was a quieter transmission. After a long drive and in neutral idling, it sounds like hell...lol. Makes me worry at times...
Huh? I'm going to have to pay attention now, but I've never heard a sound from my M/T. I only hear the engine valve chatter at idle.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the replys guys . I'm guessing the the clutch in these cars are just enough to hold a stock engine during normal driving . he's already did a filter and full exhaust , and wanting to get a tune , but sounds like to take full advantage of that stuff a better clutch is in order . he is going to try a motor mount for the time being though.
 
Thanks for the replys guys . I'm guessing the the clutch in these cars are just enough to hold a stock engine during normal driving . he's already did a filter and full exhaust , and wanting to get a tune , but sounds like to take full advantage of that stuff a better clutch is in order . he is going to try a motor mount for the time being though.
Don't be scared of it!

I'm running a Steeda Intake, MazdaSpeed3 Exhaust, Tom's Tune, Steeda rear motor mount, Steeda rear shock tower brace, sticky tires, and I drive the SNOT out of it. Approaching 70k miles and as long as I don't absolutely hammer it EVERYWHERE, it's holding up fine.

[headbang]
 
Just out of curiosity can you run through your process of a full throttle quick shift?
 
Yeah I'm over 100k of driving the hell out of this thing with no slip.
 
How do like toms tune ? That's who we are looking at for a tune for this one .
It's worth the money for sure. Tom has been fantastic about working with me to get what I want out of the car, and to this day, two years later, he still does the same.

I, unfortunately, have some scheduling issues in trying to get him datalogs, but the rain here in Houston has been putting a damper on going out to do 3rd gear pulls or anything fun like that about 50% of the time anyway.
 
I do remember someone comment a few years ago about having an oil leak from the rear main crank seal that ruined their clutch in a manual car. That might be worth inspecting.
 
I have about 120,000 km on my '13 Focus HB 5 speed, no issues at all. I did change the tranny fluid with new expensive dealership fluid at 10,000 km and again at 80,000 km, early last year.

The first time I drained the fluid it looked a bit dark. Second time it looked much cleaner
 
Does the clutch on the SE have a 'peak torque limiter' or 'clutch delay valve' like the ST?

My 2013 feels like there is something intervening with my control of the clutch. For example, it doesn't matter how quickly I step on the clutch, there is a momentary delay before the engine torque is removed.

Something similar happens when the clutch pedal is released. It does not feel as though I have direct control over the clutch.

Combine this with the characteristic of the dual mass flywheel plus the accelerator pedal progression and smooth gear changes become something of an art form!
 
Doesn't exist, and the ST limits are only electronic ones in the tuning for limited torque/boost in lower gears.

Electronic throttle has more to do with it, more intervention then just the delayed drop to idle speed of the older types. Those are famous for a delay in response due to emissions regs, if you want RPM to drop when hitting the clutch pedal you have to time it to release the fuel pedal early. Yours has a tendency discussed here to bump rolling idle to a couple grand rather than let it drop during gear changes, supposed to aid in shifting, but it throws people familiar with a manual off.

Dual mass clutch is an advancement from the simple spring loaded friction disc to absorb drive train shock, greater capacity than that type.
 
There's a TSB for the ST (BANG NOISE HEARD AND/OR BUMP FELT DURING QUICK 1-2 AND/OR 2-3 SHIFT - UNDER MODERATE TO AGGRESSIVE ACCELERATION - BUILT ON OR BEFORE 8/27/2013) and the drawing in it shows a PTL on the clutch line.

I had a look in the engine bay on the SE, but cannot see for sure if there is also a PTL on that clutch line.

The pedal damping definitely requires some pre-emptive action to allow for smooth shifts (especially 1-2). The DMF also has a part to play, as does the engine movement on the mounts...
 
Gonna have to show me more than that, and/or explain it better.

The TSB on the ST included replacing the clutch hydraulic line assy. since the way it was routed it could get damaged from excessive engine movement in the ST, the only reason it was included in that TSB.
 
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