Alright so I bought my focus sVT not running. Now that it starts the clutch doesn't disengage. I tried the pressure bleeder but nothing really comes out. Gravity bleeding didn't work either. When I start the car the clutch is engage all gears go in clutch pedal is super soft. I had someone pump the pedal while I open the clutch slave cylinder and nothing comes out. What can be the problem?
Clutch problems! Any help?
bcjr1992
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Alright so I bought my focus sVT not running. Now that it starts the clutch doesn't disengage. I tried the pressure bleeder but nothing really comes out. Gravity bleeding didn't work either. When I start the car the clutch is engage all gears go in clutch pedal is super soft. I had someone pump the pedal while I open the clutch slave cylinder and nothing comes out. What can be the problem?
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Moved to General Tech Chat (not an SVT mod question, or specific to them).
You'll find plenty of threads on bleeding the clutch around here, it can be a real PITA on these. Some even resort to reverse bleeding with a hand pump can (factory method).
I got away with vacuum bleeding, but it took a lot of work before it responded right.
ALSO need to look at the obvious, if the pedal return spring doesn't move it all the way back it'll never pressure or gravity bleed.
You'll find plenty of threads on bleeding the clutch around here, it can be a real PITA on these. Some even resort to reverse bleeding with a hand pump can (factory method).
I got away with vacuum bleeding, but it took a lot of work before it responded right.
ALSO need to look at the obvious, if the pedal return spring doesn't move it all the way back it'll never pressure or gravity bleed.
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"New to me" from a Dealer mine was missing the broken off return spring. Only noticed much later when tracking down why the cruise didn't always work. Gotta look close & check it.
Clutch is ALWAYS engaged unless the release mechanism disengages it, and that's 100% through the hydraulic linkage on these. Release bearing is right on the slave cylinder that surrounds the trans input shaft.
Even a bad master cyl. can usually be bled, you've had no luck with that so far.
"Pumping the pedal" to build up pressure for bleeding only works if it's got some fluid in it, and the pedal is held down while the bleeder is temp. opened to see if fluid comes out.
BTW - be careful to always use a hose on the bleeder screw. Fluid dripped down the hole can go on the clutch. A little teflon tape on the bleeder screw for the plastic housing types in particular can help seal the bleeder, my usual never seize trick for bleeder screws isn't appropriate if you have a plastic housing there like most do.
Clutch is ALWAYS engaged unless the release mechanism disengages it, and that's 100% through the hydraulic linkage on these. Release bearing is right on the slave cylinder that surrounds the trans input shaft.
Even a bad master cyl. can usually be bled, you've had no luck with that so far.
"Pumping the pedal" to build up pressure for bleeding only works if it's got some fluid in it, and the pedal is held down while the bleeder is temp. opened to see if fluid comes out.
BTW - be careful to always use a hose on the bleeder screw. Fluid dripped down the hole can go on the clutch. A little teflon tape on the bleeder screw for the plastic housing types in particular can help seal the bleeder, my usual never seize trick for bleeder screws isn't appropriate if you have a plastic housing there like most do.
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Umm....
Can't be sure what you're doing or how you know it's going into gear.
In gear, starting the car with the clutch pedal up it should take off moving. When you said initially that it wouldn't disengage, had a soft pedal, but all gears go in I assumed you either had it up on stands or did some careful test driving without being able to disengage completely to shift. (this IS possible)
Only with an axle partially out of the trans would it shift and not move, even a VERY worn out clutch would try to make it move a little.
Can't be sure what you're doing or how you know it's going into gear.
In gear, starting the car with the clutch pedal up it should take off moving. When you said initially that it wouldn't disengage, had a soft pedal, but all gears go in I assumed you either had it up on stands or did some careful test driving without being able to disengage completely to shift. (this IS possible)
Only with an axle partially out of the trans would it shift and not move, even a VERY worn out clutch would try to make it move a little.
Well I can hear the gears go in and out. I had my brother change gears (while car was off) and I was looking in the back of the transmission and the linkage cables were moving as he would shift it. And I can also hear it go in gear. So now when I start the car all gears go in without pressing the clutch pedal (I can hear it) the clutch is very soft. So I can basically shift in all the gears without touching the clutch pedal at all while the car is on
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Jack up one corner and see if you can turn the wheel. Both sides up you should see the other side turn backwards.
The only time I hear about it shifting & not moving is when someone doesn't get a driver's side axle fully into the trans. so it isn't engaged.
There should be SOME try at movement even with a shot clutch, even if the clutch disc was broken or the splines stripped it would make some noise.
Shucks, put it in gear and try to move it, then see what happens. Really in gear it shouldn't move much as it's trying to turn the engine over.
Slave cyl. over extended to disengage the clutch somehow it should have leaked. That's REALLY a stretch.
The only time I hear about it shifting & not moving is when someone doesn't get a driver's side axle fully into the trans. so it isn't engaged.
There should be SOME try at movement even with a shot clutch, even if the clutch disc was broken or the splines stripped it would make some noise.
Shucks, put it in gear and try to move it, then see what happens. Really in gear it shouldn't move much as it's trying to turn the engine over.
Slave cyl. over extended to disengage the clutch somehow it should have leaked. That's REALLY a stretch.
OK so exactly what I did and what happened. Put the car on jack stands. Spun the driver side wheel and the other side didn't spin. (Was in first gear) went under the car and axle was out. So I put it in and there I would spin one side and the other would do the opposite. So now that is clear. Thank you! But now while the car was still up I started the car and put it in 2nd gear with the clutch pedal down and it went in and the wheels kept spinning even with the clutch pedal down. So I tried bleeding it with no success again. Clutch pedal still goes down very soft. Now it makes more sense. with the car on the ground now the dont gears go in like it used to! Now I'm getting close. But now I press the clutch and gears still don't go in. Could the master cylinder be bad? I filled the reservoir to the top and left it like that last night no signs of missing fluid
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Wheels will spin in the air even with a clutch that fully disengages, there's still plenty of friction to do that.
Now you're down to the joys of trying to get the system bled. Can't say if the master is working or not, but if it's working in part getting it bled better should make it work adequately.
P.S. - driver's side axle out? Did it pop in place for you now?
Now you're down to the joys of trying to get the system bled. Can't say if the master is working or not, but if it's working in part getting it bled better should make it work adequately.
P.S. - driver's side axle out? Did it pop in place for you now?
AhAh sounds like I'm about to have some fun!
Well I been trying to bleed it. I tried bleeding it yesterday with no luck. Tried what you said to do with the teflon. Nothing. Tried it with the pressure bleeder again nothing. Reservoir has been on the same spot as yesterday so I would say no leaks. Do you think it could possibly work with a vacuum bleeder?
Well I been trying to bleed it. I tried bleeding it yesterday with no luck. Tried what you said to do with the teflon. Nothing. Tried it with the pressure bleeder again nothing. Reservoir has been on the same spot as yesterday so I would say no leaks. Do you think it could possibly work with a vacuum bleeder?
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Think I mentioned earlier using one myself, also found it helpful while the bleeder was cracked to use that to do a few slow pedal presses to help the fluid along.
With a power bleeder and a hose to bottle connected at the bleeder, try cracking the bleeder open a bit and move the pedal fully up and down by hand to see if any fluid comes out.
So far you've said NO fluid coming out at the bleeder screw end.
With a power bleeder and a hose to bottle connected at the bleeder, try cracking the bleeder open a bit and move the pedal fully up and down by hand to see if any fluid comes out.
So far you've said NO fluid coming out at the bleeder screw end.
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If the pedal is still soft keep trying to bleed it. Remember to have your helper push the pedal down SLOWLY! Also try gravity bleeding, closing the bleeder, and then pumping the clutch slowly several dozen times. Then try to bleed it with your helper. That's what worked for me.
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