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Stock 2012 MK3 Spark Plugs - NGK

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#22 ·
Captain is in the USA, so 81k miles is over 100k klicks already.

Wouldn't need to change, but many find it an improvement at some time before the official lifespan.

I worry more about cars that don't build miles as quickly, removing/checking & lubricating with never seize at half the rated life to help ensure they don't seize in the head.
 
#24 ·
Did you notice the two of you are talking different measures?

FFhb13 is in Canada, so talking in kilometers while you're listed in VA talking in miles.

His 100,000km equals ~62,000 miles.
 
#26 ·
60k is good preventative maint. that's when I usually swap my plugs on my cars.
 
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#33 ·
Post #13 - .031 is the top of the range for the 2.0 Ecoboost, not your engine.

The wider the gap the better as a rule, until it gets TOO wide and misfires as a result (various reasons, not writing a text here).

Too small is better than too large a gap, as long as not taken to extremes, as that's on the "safe side" for not misfiring. Gap widens with use, the special plugs used there resist that which is the reason they can be used for so long (tip & ground strap have exotic metal spark locations).

Wouldn't worry about .033, how did you actually check it? Wire gauge is the only accurate method, and that's usually done to a range of go/no-go.
 
#35 ·
OK, must be EXTREMELY careful using those on the fancy plugs.

Made originally for std. plugs, the tiny tips on those new types are very easily damaged.

Not that people didn't use them wrong & break older types as well, always mention that for anyone reading - no "dissing" you intended.
 
#36 ·
None taken, haven't seen any other way to gap a plug. Just old school I guess. I was really careful not to damage the wire tip. I have read many of your post and find you very knowledgeable. Thanks for any help or info.
 
#37 ·
Got one of those around myself, good for quick checks. If the hole in the circle is chamfered right, you can hook it on the ground strap to open the gap & knock 'em on something hard to close it.

Got used to using a Bosch wire gauge for most with metric specs, that tool included some gadgets for hooking onto the strap to bend it as required. When a spec. is from .6-.7 for example it's time saving to see if the small one fits and the large one doesn't - job done.
 
#38 ·
Ok found out what gapping your plugs to tight affects your car, on a trip to Atlanta this weekend I noticed that at highway speeds while getting on it there was a vibration or slight sputter. Only on really getting on it to pass as over take EVERYONE!!! Any way I re gapped them and now the sputter and vibration is gone. Went from 0.33 gap to a 0.35 what is recommended. Will be monitoring it on the trip home sunday.
 
#39 ·
BeepBeep2 said:
Yeah, lots of turns on the ratchet to get the plugs out and back in. Took about an hour doing 1 plug at a time.

One of my plugs is somewhat more fouled than the others, I assume that as the issue got worse might have caused some timing issues and misfire. Honestly, the plugs don't look disasterous, but it soothed some of the idle vibration.

My DCT car is running the stock motor mounts, looking into changing the RMM soon to see if it may help further. I've been into my Ford dealer several times about the transmission and stumbling between shifts and this seems to have reduced the stumbling somewhat. After the 4th visit or so they contacted engineering in Dearborn and the response back was not to service my car because the GREEN air filter (installed at 44K) was root cause of my issues. [facepalm] (Not like Ford Racing doesn't sell the same filter 100% warranty compliant in a different color...)

Anywho, the catalytic converter check engine light (P0420) was concerning considering the car hasn't hit 80K yet, and it looks like changing the plugs was a good idea. I got this car used at 37K miles from a Chrysler dealership.

When I looked the code up (ILTR6F9) I found that it is only applicable to 2012 models. Not sure if 2013-2016 and Motorcraft plugs have since switched, but these are standard NGK Laser Iridum OE made in Japan.
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Quick question, for the P0420 code you received, what was the issue to clear the code. I changed my sparkplugs and my upstream 02 converter and my check engine light is still on :(. Im thinking i need to have my downstream changed out as well but I'm not sure. Also Is there a big difference in using NGK spark plugs versus Motorcraft, performance wise? My mechanic is giving me crap over having Japanese spark plugs on an American car ? :/
 
#40 ·
^^If you read through, I believe it's been mentioned that motorcraft are now rebranded NGK plugs... not 100% certain on that but heard that a lot, who cares if plugs are made in USA, Mexico or Aisa, go with what works best in the vehicle.
 
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FFhb13
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