On the 2003 ZTW I just acquired, the passenger side doors are hitting each other. I know it was in an accident, but is there a way to adjust the doors so they don't hit each other, or is this a matter of having to straighten out the unibody?
Passenger side doors hitting each other
KDulcimer
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On the 2003 ZTW I just acquired, the passenger side doors are hitting each other. I know it was in an accident, but is there a way to adjust the doors so they don't hit each other, or is this a matter of having to straighten out the unibody?
I just checked out the panel gaps. The gap between the fender and the front door does seem a tiny bit bigger than the driver's side. They are making one point of contact, at the crease below the window.
I should probably also mention that the front fender and both door panels on the passenger side have been replaced. The base color is black, but the fender and front door are beige, while the back door is dark green.
I should probably also mention that the front fender and both door panels on the passenger side have been replaced. The base color is black, but the fender and front door are beige, while the back door is dark green.
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If the car was in an accident it may not be the doors at fault. Depending on the accident could have warped the whole car so without fixing that will never be able to get anything to line up the way it should.
I would talk with a good body shop or somebody who knows unibody cars to get their professional opinion on it if you do not know what to look for.
I would talk with a good body shop or somebody who knows unibody cars to get their professional opinion on it if you do not know what to look for.
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465 Posts
Your car sounds like mine! Lol
![Image]()
I replaced the doors myself to get rid of demented ones. If you going to make an adjustment I'd recommend the rear if possible. The back doors simply unplug from the car and then 4 bots later and it's off completely. You can egg out the bolt holes in the hinges and try to slide the back door back a hair. Striker engagement might be effected tho. Same advice for the front, egg out holes and slide forward. Front door is harder because it's hard wired to the car (I think) BUT if you slide the door forward and the striker won't engage you can shim piece off the jamb with washers to make up the difference.
I replaced the doors myself to get rid of demented ones. If you going to make an adjustment I'd recommend the rear if possible. The back doors simply unplug from the car and then 4 bots later and it's off completely. You can egg out the bolt holes in the hinges and try to slide the back door back a hair. Striker engagement might be effected tho. Same advice for the front, egg out holes and slide forward. Front door is harder because it's hard wired to the car (I think) BUT if you slide the door forward and the striker won't engage you can shim piece off the jamb with washers to make up the difference.
HA! We have a green door in the same location!
Thanks for the info, I'll have to try the back door. Fortunately, there's only a tiny patch where it's hitting. I'll bet that if I shifted the door 1-2mm, it would be fine.
Thanks for the info, I'll have to try the back door. Fortunately, there's only a tiny patch where it's hitting. I'll bet that if I shifted the door 1-2mm, it would be fine.
Attachments
![IMG_20160406_124926023[1].jpg](/d2/attachments/21/21271-0067e6c60e150cb527a10c22eee74235.jpg)
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465 Posts
You can try to loosen the bolts to get it to move but they are pretty tight to the holes and I think opening the holes is going to be necessary.
Back doors off green focus wagons are a popular mod apparently lol.
Back doors off green focus wagons are a popular mod apparently lol.
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Honestly, I think your best bet without throwing off the striker alignments is like you mentioned to just grind down that small little area. if you say it's only 1 or 2 mm, it won't be noticeable. and would be the easiest answer really.
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lol, look at the car, dude paid $700 for it, grinding off a small little 1-2mm portion where it's hitting won't even be noticeable. little bit of dremmel grinding wont hurt anyone.
if it was a nice car worth some money, I would agree, grinding down a tiny bit wouldnt be the way to go. But in this situation, grinding is exactly what I would do.
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184 Posts
Your rear door needs the top hinge to move rearward, see how your body lines and the top of the door are higher on the door than on the quarter panel. Bringing that hinge back will help with the height and the gap between the doors. If you can't adjust it properly, a 2 by 4 and a large hammer placed on the hinge will help move it. Your striker could also be too high causing the door to bind.
Removing the striker from the 1'4 panel is preferred while doing adjustments. You want the door to sit in the opening the way it should be without the striker, then reinstall the striker and adjust as needed to get the door to shut smoothly.
Your front door gap looks wide, you can TRY to tighten it by gently opening the door past its check strap stop position. Basically as if the wind caught your door and opened it too far. That generally will tighten the gaps, you just have to be careful. You need to use force but be gentle.
Removing the striker from the 1'4 panel is preferred while doing adjustments. You want the door to sit in the opening the way it should be without the striker, then reinstall the striker and adjust as needed to get the door to shut smoothly.
Your front door gap looks wide, you can TRY to tighten it by gently opening the door past its check strap stop position. Basically as if the wind caught your door and opened it too far. That generally will tighten the gaps, you just have to be careful. You need to use force but be gentle.
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It is possible that the B pillar is pushed in, but your rocker doesn't look like it is in. If there isn't any obvious damage to the b pillar you should be fine. But, just a few mm in can cause problems.
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It doesn't take much to grind a door skin off of the car, I haven't measured but it isn't much more than the amount you mention.The sheet metal skin is folded over and will likely be the thickness of 20 gauge sheetmetal, probably less as it is stretched thin.
I got an angle grinder yesterday, for some different work (you really should change your sway bar links more often than every 13 years, you know), and took a close look at the doors. The top of the front door is actually overlapping the back door right at the top.
I am now thinking the best shot is to egg out the mounting holes, starting with the front.
I am now thinking the best shot is to egg out the mounting holes, starting with the front.
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465 Posts
Looks like the front door needs to be rotated clockwise. Will close gap at bottom a little but open the top
No idea how to handle panels not lining up other than washers maybe.
No idea how to handle panels not lining up other than washers maybe.
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