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14sec.

2.3K views 51 replies 22 participants last post by  atarifocus  
#1 ·
what all would i need to buy for the zetec engine to run a 14flat in a sedan
 
#2 ·
wow, your gonna need basically every single bolt on there is... I/H/E is a must. then you will need a SCT flasher with good tunes on it. then you will have to completely gut your car and you would probably need a stage 2 or 3 clutch also. i'm not sure if that setup would get u to run a 14 flat though, because thats very fast for a n/a focus!
 
#4 ·
you are giong to need 11:1 compression or higher, stage 3 plus cams, all bolt ons, fr head, crower s/r so you dont float a valve, custom intake manifold, 3 in exhaust, race header, spec stage 3 clutch ( i wouldnt get a lightend flywheel do to the fact they are noisy on our cars) maybe a quaife

it would be the same ammount to get a stage 1 turbo kit from focus-power.com and get a stage 3 clutch
 
#5 ·
well, a 11.1 CR isn't really needed, i beleve "goatroper" ran under a 14.5 w/ a 10.4 CR, P&P head w/ stg. 3 cams, all bolt-ons, and a tune. The stock clutch will hold for a wile, but will need to be replaced as soon as possible...
 
#10 ·
i just had a conflict with a cobalt ss that goat helped me out with. im running high 13's all the time now. get nitrous, its so much cheaper that super charging and turbo charging and it is safer than a turbo. try zex, nitrous express, or venom. oh and dont believe any vin diesels in here, nitrous is not damaging to your motor as long as your not trying to coax 150 horsepower shot out of a stock car. stick to 75 or below and your car wont be harmed at all.
 
#11 · (Edited)
If you run nitrous, I would suggest doing a wet kit. Little safer than going dry, th e hit isn't as hard as a dry shot, but the nitrous will mix with the fuel before it gets to the piston chamber which make a little more hp than a dry shot. Either way, your torque will shoot out the roof with nitrous all the way through the powerband.
 
#15 ·
You CAN still run them with the nitrous. I venture to say if you only have a 75 shot with an intake, header, exhaust, and tune you'd be making about 200+ whp. The 4.06s would be fine at that hp. Your first and second gears would just go by very fast, you would need to be quick with shifting.
 
#16 ·
kenpokid said:
You CAN still run them with the nitrous. I venture to say if you only have a 75 shot with an intake, header, exhaust, and tune you'd be making about 200+ whp. The 4.06s would be fine at that hp. Your first and second gears would just go by very fast, you would need to be quick with shifting.
but if you know how to drive, then it isn't a problem.......the right driver behind a lower hp car can ALMOST always beat a higher hp car if the driver doesn't know how to drive it.
 
#17 ·
dwnshfter said:
but if you know how to drive, then it isn't a problem.......the right driver behind a lower hp car can ALMOST always beat a higher hp car if the driver doesn't know how to drive it.
then WHAT isn't the problem? the gears? As I said, if you can shift quick enough with the gears and extra power from nitrous, meaning, if you are good driver, then you should be fine with the shorter gears and nitrous. [thumb]
 
#19 ·
im definatly addicted to the giggle. i told my wife that no matter what kind of car i ever drive it will have nitrous on it. cheap, easy horsepower. oh yeah, cruising the kids to soccer practice in my bottle fed dodge caravan. i dunno about the gears and diff. i know the gears seem cheap but putting them in wouldnt be. tranny work is gonna cost a fortune.
 
#24 ·
You would most likely get about the same time, unless the driver was perfectly consistent with both cars. The sedan weighs about 50 pounds more I believe, which won't make much of a difference, except with weight distribution when launching. But the 50 pounds is due to the extra frame work and doors, so it is closer to the center of the car more than being over the very rear of the car.

The gear swap is a matter of yanking the old tranny out (that includes pulling the axles out of the tranny first), pulling all of the neccessary gears out of the tranny, putting the new gears/ differential (might as well do a LSD swap while you have the tranny out) back in. I don't know EXACTLY how to do it, but there is a write up somewhere about it, and it doesn't seem too difficult. You just have to be mechanically inclined[thumb] And as always, it is good to have a partner.
 
#26 ·
The 4.06 gears are definitely worth it, whether you install them yourself or pay to have them installed. I had Tom do my transmission last May, and after the gears and Quaife went in it was a completely different animal, even with the stock exhaust header and cat. First and second are fairly short, but the rest of the gears get a kick in driveability (you can actually accelerate in 5th without being above 4,000 RPMs) and the car generally gets up and goes.

I'd shy away from doing the gear install myself, between dropping the transmission and the actual install you could be looking at three days or more of work, and if you screw the gear install up its going to cost a whole lot more to have a mechanic put everything back together again...its always cheaper to pay someone to do it right the first time than to pay them to correct your mistakes.