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Ford Powershift/DCT Transmission Info & Use Guide (New Owners Look Here!)

436K views 731 replies 195 participants last post by  stuart s  
#1 ·
I am writing this as a general knowledge and use guide regarding the Ford Powershift transmission, available in all North American (and other areas, of course) Focuses. For this guide I will only be focusing on what is available in North America as it is what I am familiar with. The purpose of this is to inform drivers of what they are buying, and to help with any driveability issues (jerkiness, etc.) related to the operation of this transmission. For this guide, I will not be considering the ST model at all, so any reference to the Focus is in reference to the other models (S - Titanium).

Jump straight to post #2 for my recommendations on driving with this transmission and reducing low speed jerkiness.

First I will explain why the Powershift is different then most other gearboxes. Here is a Wiki article on the powershift, for anyone looking for a bit more information on it: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_PowerShift_transmission

To start, the North American Focus is available with two gearboxes, a 5 speed manual and 6 speed "automatic" (the Powershift). The 5 speed manual is a typical manual gearbox. The 6 speed automatic, however, is not a typical automatic transmission. If you bought a Focus in North America, and it was equipped with an automatic transmission, it has the Powershift dual clutch transmission. The powershift is what is called a "dual clutch transmission". It's called this because...it use two clutches between it and the engine. For those unfamiliar with how transmission work, here is a very brief explanation of the differences between a manual and (normal) automatic, and how the Powershift is different then either:

- A manual transmission and automatic transmission are designed differently, and transmit power to the drive wheels in different ways. How each gearbox works is mostly irrelevant, but what is relevant is how each gearbox is connected to the engine. With a manual transmission, something called a clutch is used, which operates similar to a disc brake system. What this means is that when the clutch is pressed against the engine, the entire drivetrain (engine to drive wheels) is "locked up". Generally speaking no slipping of any parts happens during this, so any power generated by the engine is transmitted directly to the rest of the drivetrain.

- A "traditional" automatic uses something called a torque converter between the engine and transmission. This is a device filled with fluids, and simply put, several fans (turbines, really). The torque converter allows the engine to revolve without allowing that motion to be transferred to the transmission, and also allows for the engine speed and transmission input speed to be different, even while the vehicle is moving. What this means is that when you are are driving your vehicle, the transmission is not physically connected to the engine (the torque converter does "lock up" at higher speeds though, but that's irrelevant here). What this means is that any changes in engine speed are not directly applied to the transmission (and thus drive wheels), which allows for nice, smooth operation. Think of it like stirring a big pot of water with a spoon. When you first start stirring, the water doesn't really move much, but as you keep going it will start to spin with the spoon and speed up. That is what is happening here, so there is a buffer stopping any jolts from the engine being transmitted to the wheels.

That is important to know as it relates to how the vehicle operates at low speeds. Normal automatic transmissions are notoriously smooth at low speeds because of the torque converter. Manual transmissions often aren't because the clutch does not allow for such forgiveness, and smoothness is directly related to how good the driver is (and how they are able to slip the clutch to keep things smooth). How does this related to the Powershift transmission?:

The Ford Powershift transmission is, in design and general operation, a manual gearbox. It uses a clutch between the motor and transmission (two of them, actually...hence calling it a "dual clutch transmission"), and the transmission itself is designed internally much like a manual transmission. The differences are in that it has several computer controlled electronic servos (electric motors, basically) that do all the shifting and engaging/disengaging of the clutch. Why does this matter? It matters because it uses a clutch to connect it to the motor, which generally speaking means a bit more of a jerky ride, especially at low speeds (regardless of how good the computer is at operating it).

Why would Ford use such a transmission? Mostly because it offers improved gas mileage over traditional automatic transmissions. Because those transmissions use a torque converter, some of the energy produced by the engine is lost in the torque converter. Meanwhile, a transmission using a clutch transmits all of its power through the clutch so less power is lost overall. This means more power to the wheels, and better fuel economy.
 
#287 ·
Building the DCT was a product guy decision IMHO, and taking a big chance doesn't always work out as well as hoped for.

Handling of troubles since then could well be a tug of war between the groups, with a likelihood of more than two factions.

With the investment involved in trying it on a large scale, there could be a LOT of pressure to make it work somehow without spending a lot on major changes (bean counter side). "You wanted it, now you're locked into the basic design for X years"

A lot of different pressures, and how good a "fix" might be isn't proven for a long time - not even counting that the issues aren't limited to one problem or universal to all. Couple categories of problems with a few parts involved, just counting the most common.

For another aspect, I keep coming back to the comparison with CVT transmissions. DCT & CVT could both do better if not limited by Sales dept. demands for something the "feels" exactly like it's predecessor in operation. The funny part is that "slushboxes" have been derided since their introduction, but with most used to them now they're preferable to anything else. There are good reasons you seldom see an old car with an automatic restored, early versions were pretty poor. Only survived at all because they WERE automatic, before that a car that could start out in high gear was the best avail. to avoid shifting.
 
#288 ·
Ok so, recently I have purchased my first (new) car... by new I mean a 2013 focus SE Hatch black with the six speed "auto" with roughly 58k on it. I have always been a manual guy so was not intimidated by the thought of an automated manual. I do tend to drive like a grandma and recently have started to notice the infamous shudders mostly from 1st to 2nd, and sometimes even 2nd to 3rd. I am quite worried as to the longevity of this trans. I do not have the time being away from my vehicle. I have just started a new job. I bought the car used as is from a local mom and pop dealer. Never had issues before and now after 600 miles of driving it has started.I have read about the clutch scrubbing, but is there anything else i should know about?? Any and all tips are appreciated. Will the extended warranty offered on the parts be allowed to me even though it was not purchased at a FORD dealer?

How hard, would it be to find the 5 speed manual to swap in ? Plenty of honda swap experience, just no ideas on prices etc if I should bother and just figure this thing out.

I am just worried, that is what I do. I am afraid to scrub the clutches without knowing if there are oil leaks...
 
#290 ·
don't worry about oil leaks when scrubbing the clutch. all your doing is getting on it and going wide open throttle. the car will be fine.

5spd swaps have been done but it's not exactly affordable unless you do all the labor yourself. there is a thread on here where a guy did a walkthrough on it.
 
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#291 ·
Thanks for the quick replies, I actually like the feel of the tranny, it just intimidated me with the shuddering.. Ill be sure to go out tomorrow and scrub them a bit, I will try to apply more throttle from a stop. I have just found that more throttle has been more shuddering for me to this point. That may be because the clutch for 1,3,5 is somewhat glazed due to previous owners actions?> such as creeping, grandma driving etc

It literally feels like a brand new car still with 58k on it, until i felt the shudders... hopefully form what i have read and not driving like a grandma will solve my problems.
 
#300 ·
No biggie, like I said my attitude was more grumbly than usual the other day and the "per Ford" caught my eye.

"Ford Tech Makuloco" series of videos is well known, he was a Dealer Tech when making those but the last I heard of him he was trying to raise $ to travel the country helping people with tech. issues & making more videos.

"Not as fully developed as it could be" certainly seems to fit. Not the deluge of issues seen when it first came out, but still plenty of discussion and continued problems from some cars. Frequency from current ones is WAY down, closer to what was seen with prev. "normal" automatics.

Tom has been tuning these cars for a LONG time, capability to do the current MkIII & DCT is relatively recent. After a lot of good results with performance tuning to include DCT operation, he recently decided to promote it for the everyday benefits seen. Can't fix anything broken, but it seems to be very good at making them act more as people desire.
 
#311 ·
Ford Powershift/DCT Transmission Info & Use Guide (New Owners Look Here!)

Tom has been tuning these cars for a LONG time, capability to do the current MkIII & DCT is relatively recent. After a lot of good results with performance tuning to include DCT operation, he recently decided to promote it for the everyday benefits seen. Can't fix anything broken, but it seems to be very good at making them act more as people desire.

lookup 1turbofocus in the forum. Focus-power.com
 
#301 ·
Hi all,

I have a 2012, manufactured May 2012, Focus. It's been to the dealer many times over the last 3 years for shudder. Programmed, reset, etc... the clutch has never been replaced. It was fine for a while but now the shudder is back. I noticed if I manually shift I do not get shudder. Perhaps this is due to higher RPM shifting points. I read about scrubbing and wanted to try it before taking to the dealer since I'm out of warranty. Should I reset the PCM before scrubbing?

Also, what is typical charge for reflash and also clutch replacement if it comes to that?
 
#304 ·
Just put my '14 in the shop for the 3rd time for shuddering and a variety of other transmission issues.

I asked about the warranty and i'm so damn confused i don't know what's what.
I've got 31k on it now so i know the standard 36k mile warranty is closing in. I also have the extended warranty which i goes goes to 100k but they said as a $100 deductible each time??? I don't remember that being a selling point when i agreed to it.
They also told me that the tranny control module only has a warranty extension to 150k...

Like i said i'm so confused i;m not sure what the warranty is anymore.
 
#305 ·
There are a bunch of successive warranties to start with, plus the added extensions on different trans parts.

You can find the details on those extensions in stickies found at the top of the MkIII Problems section where most of the transmission threads are located. 14MO1 and 14 MO2 for the clutch etc. and the TCM.

Cars start out using the 3/36 bumper to bumper warranty, then go to the 5/60 power train warranty, then a few parts are covered under the Emission warranty including the TCM (and ECU) - IIRC that's 7/70. 14MO1 for clutches/seals/programming goes to 100k (forget the years) and the TCM to 10/150K under 14MO2.

Clear as mud?
 
#306 ·
My 14 focus finally needs clutches after 60k miles but I was told the clutches are on extreme backorder. Also the manufacturer of the transmission Getrag for the focus was bought out by Magna International Inc. so who knows how long it might take now to get new clutches for any focus. Wish I had the money to get rid of my focus after reading that.
 
#307 ·
Ford Powershift/DCT Transmission Info & Use Guide (New Owners Look Here!)

the manufacturer of the transmission Getrag for the focus was bought out by Magna International Inc.

It sounds like Getrag after its announcement of dropping DCT dry gearboxes should have included in the news release they wanted to totally forget they made it and was looking for the fastest way out.

It is really turning into a bit of a mystery why Ford US is still selling the DCT in the Focus.
 
#309 ·
Ford Powershift/DCT Transmission Info & Use Guide (New Owners Look Here!)




The writing has been on the wall for DCT Focus when Getrag announced they intend to drop the dry DCT and the new Focus with torque converter was introduced around the world except the US.

It's dead tech. A bold experiment where the dealer network, customers and tech were not quite ready. A pity as a working DCT is great fun to drive.

Try Tom's tune. If it doesn't work all you are out of pocket is the postage cost.
 
#317 ·
I was getting my 2014 Focus' oil change at 14k miles at the dealer and talked to them about a shudder the car had been experiencing. Shudder randomly when driving through city speeds, and slipping feeling when leaving a stop sign especially at low throttle application.
They hooked me up with their "transmission problem" person who over the phone said it sounded like I need a new clutch. Said they are 6 weeks out on new parts and ordered one for me. Then they'll schedule a diagnostic appointment once the part is in, and swap it if still looks like a clutch.
 
#512 ·
14475 miles later I'm at the dealer for the door latch recall and mention I am starting to get some shudder. he has the techs check it. The tech did PID monitoring during a test drive after a TCM Adapter Learning procedure. Found shudder was out of spec at 429 RPM.

Found no leak at shaft seals, so replaced the clutch. Service writer said it is a new 16 clutch and they have had no come backs on them. Unlike the 15 and 14 clutch. At just about 600 more miles till I'm out of the base warranty, I hope this clutch lasts longer than 15000 miles. Though I will save up for the extended warranty deductible. Clutch part number was F1FZ-7B546-B CLUTCH 048090.
 
#323 ·
What great information here. I have found that keeping the engine revolutions over 1000 rpm in parking lots eliminate almost all of the shuddering.

A question that I have: recently my 2012 Titanium hatchback has developed a blip at high speeds (over 80 km/h). It is a shake (not a shudder) - it kind of feels like the trailer-towing sensation (back and forth), but at much higher speeds and for a much shorter interval. It is a shake for one second, and then everything is okay. It's when the transmission is in sixth gear, on flat surfaces, or slight inclines (I don't think the transmission is downshifting).

Could it be the TSB about the engine harness that has failed that momentarily contacts ground and causes the powertrain electronics to shut down? I guess it is so intermittent that it doesn't set any DTCs for the "Check Engine" light to illuminate. It's happened twice actually in the last month.

Do any of you think that it is the PowerShift? All the seals and the clutch assembly were replaced last July. Otherwise, the PowerShift is functioning fine.
 
#324 ·
If the trans is not shifting when it happens, I do not think it is the trans. Sounds more like a fuel issue. A primary fuel pump, the one in the tank, that is going out would not necessarily generate a DTC code, and a missfire code will not be generated unless the condition happens more often. You may want to take the car in for service and have them check the fuel system pressure is within specification.
 
#325 ·
I don't think it is shifting. It would be odd that it was shifting on a slight downhill incline from sixth to fifth. No misfire DTCs have been set. Like I wrote, it's happened twice. I guess GDI engines are a LOT more sensitive with fuel system pressure. I haven't heard of many Duratec 2.0 problems since the engine is a remnant of the Ford/Mazda partnership.

Thanks for the reply - and apologies to everyone else for hijacking this post for non-DCT issues.

Honestly, pretending that this car has a manual transmission (i.e. keeping revs up in parking lots and looking around for other cars in lots so that you don't have the car drop below 1000 rpm) really has eliminated the shudder.

But here's another question - I was backing into the driveway today and it feels like the car shifted out of reverse, as the car lurched forward into the street. Can that actually happen? Does that mean another TCM failure? Broken shift forks? Failed gears?
 
#327 ·
Thank you so much for these posts! I have never driven a manual before (I know, I know), so it's definitely taking a bit for me to adjust my driving habits for my 2015 S. Listening to what you said about the throttle has eliminated pretty much any awkward noises as I drive!

I did have one question, though, to see if I'm driving it wrong, it's normal, or there's an issue. Sometimes when I press on the throttle from a dead stop and it shifts for the first time it does vibrate a bit, kind of like the feeling you have if you drive over one of the rumble strips on the side of the freeway (edit: is this the famed stutter and I need to scrub my clutch?). Other than that it's smooth (beyond the slight movements when it shifts in other gears).

This is the newest car I have ever owned, so I really don't want to be driving it wrong and putting undue stress on the transmission. [eek]
 
#328 ·
Thank you so much for these posts! I have never driven a manual before (I know, I know), so it's definitely taking a bit for me to adjust my driving habits for my 2015 S. Listening to what you said about the throttle has eliminated pretty much any awkward noises as I drive!

I did have one question, though, to see if I'm driving it wrong, it's normal, or there's an issue. Sometimes when I press on the throttle from a dead stop and it shifts for the first time it does vibrate a bit, kind of like the feeling you have if you drive over one of the rumble strips on the side of the freeway. Other than that it's smooth (beyond the slight movements when it shifts in other gears).

This is the newest car I have ever owned, so I really don't want to be driving it wrong and putting undue stress on the transmission.
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Congratulations on your purchase!

Are you accelerating at a slow speed? The dual clutch is best if you have it shift into second between 2500 and 3000 rpm. It will be jerky and noisy if shifting at low speeds.

Hopefully that helps.