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Stumped on Bleeding Clutch after Replacing Clutch

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Discussion starter · #21 ·
No chance yet, rained pretty heavily and im camped out under some tarps in the back yard. Im tired of working in the rain haha. Ill be trying tbjs afternoon

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Discussion starter · #22 ·
Lowered it down, buttoned everything up, added coolant and trans fluid, then fired her up.


Once running i heard several odd noises from the pulleys. By turning the wheels i determined that the PS pump is cavitating. More on this in a second.


Still no clutch pedal pressure. I tried bleeding again after letting it idle but no luck.


Here's what im thinking:
Before taking everything apart, the PS system was a-okay, as was the clutch line and MC.
However, now i cannot get pedal pressure and the PS pump is wailing at me.

So what changed from before and after and could have caused the noises?
Well, i jostled the PS line around more than id like to admit getting the trans in and out. Maybe i flexed this aging line last its breaking point and developed a leak somewhere, allowing air into the PS system and thus my pump to cavitate. I say air because there is the same level of fluid in the PS reservoir, but it is VERY frothy and foamy.

I think if that is possible, then maybe the clutch line also suffered a similar fate. If so, then that may be why i cant build pedal pressure.

I know thats a lot of info, but thoughts?

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#23 ·
If a line broke somewhere you would see a fluid leak especially the ps as the majority of the system is high pressure lines. The clutch is not as high pressure I believe correct me if I'm wrong but you would still see a fluid leak have you checked the master cylinder I know you said it's fairly new but make sure it's not leaking on the pedals which is the common sign of it failing. And the connection for the line going into the slave cylinder was solid and you put the clip back on to hold it in place? I know my slave cylinder came with a cap on it did you take the cap out?

Trying to think of any and everything before anything major :/
 
#25 ·
I would try the "hose into a bottle located above the bleeder" bleeding method.

Attach a hose to the bleeder, put the other end in a small bottle that has some brake fluid in it, making sure the end is ALWAYS below the fluid level.

Keep the bottle above the bleeder screw level , and slowly pump the pedal.

You'll see if fluid is moving (like a disconnected line test), and it's a fast way to evacuate most of the air.

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Discussion starter · #26 ·
So good news! I have pedal pressure!
I removed the MC, bench bled it, plugged it with earplugs so i didnt lose fluid when i installed it, then reinstalled it.

Simple bleeding procedure gave me pedal pressure so i left it alone!

I was able to get the car to move under its own power but not yet a test drive because i have to spet out the power steering pump now

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#27 ·
Hope you have better luck with the power steering issues! Just bled the clutch on my son's SVT yesterday. We got about a quarter pedal pressure and 3/4 free play. Enough to drive it but will probably try the bench bleeding method you used in the future. Seems like it took forever for all the bubbles to disappear! Also, had to make sure we kept close tabs on the fluid level in the brake master cylinder. We went through a lot of fluid!
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Most of the time if im flushing a system out, ill use cheap stuff then add in the good fluid once it's where it needs to be. Ive learned to accept that im going to go through a lot of fluid haha

For example, i fixed the PS lump by flushing out the dark chocolate colored fluid with the cheapest marcon atf i could find. Once it was coming out red, i put in the synthetic.

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Discussion starter · #29 ·
Alright, im stuck again.

I get in the car and have good pedal pressure. I disengage clutch, put it in 1st, and drive off. Still good pressure.
Anytime i disengage the clutch after that first time, i only have about half pedal. Any thoughts on this?


Also, I'm getting a BUNCH of rotating noise. It sounds like it could be the brakes because they sat for so long and got rusty. Im concerned that it could also be the clutch? Any thoughts on this?

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Discussion starter · #31 ·
I figured it is, but what's got me kinda weirded out is it sounds like the pads are dragging. I needed the front rotors reaurfaced anyway so i went ahead and got that done.

Is it possible for a rotor to get so rusty that itll drag on thebpsd even when the brakes arent engaged? Is it possivle for the pads to get "rusty" as well?

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#32 ·
Left my P/U parked in Houston once for a week at a time twice in a row, badly rusted after the first wk. and after the second it was hard to break them loose to move at all.

Focus gets rusted regularly in damp or rainy weather, makes nice noises until it gets a few stops to clean them.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Update:

On the first few test drives around the block, I would initially have full pedal pressure on the clutch, then it would die down to where it would engage at like half pedal pressure.

I said screw it, I wanna drive, and just drove from there. Whatever issue was at hand worked itself out within about 15 miles and I am now back to full pedal pressure at all times. Clutch grabs great and all seems well!


(well, mostly)
YES, the brakes work.
However, before all this repair shenanigans, I could hit the brakes and throw my eyeballs out of their sockets (wayyy before ABS kicks in too!).
Now, I have good pedal pressure but it just isn't grabbing like it used to.
I had the front rotors turned since they were most rusty (about time to anyway) and left the rear rotors to burn off the rust. Well, the rust has since burnt off and I still don't have the reaction I used to.

Is it possible to get this result from air in the lines? I am 95% sure I didn't get any fluid of sorts on the brake pads while the car was MIA. Thoughts?
 
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smallblockfever
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