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Working at Autozone for the past 3 years ive seen some factors of battery failure not mentioned here.

1) Batteries are not secured down properly
2) Terminals are not maintained, have acid buildup
3) Terminals are original ones
4) Terminals are not tightened properly
5) Cold Cranking amps do not meet specs, yes having an audio system affects
6) No anticorrosive spray or gel daubed on the area
7) still iffy about this one...some batteries ive changed have a heat/cold jacket
8) battery acid wells not maintenanced...sum ppl over add distilled water
Personally ive helped lots of customers save a $100 bill by buying a $13 quart of battery acid and replenishing as needed

But yea the Motorcraft battery live span mentioned in here makes me sick to my stomach. At work, ill see few Everstart Walmart Batteries, Interstate, Energizer, or DieHard ones.

Never been a fan of the small terminals that hug the post giving it that clean look http://news.thomasnet.com/fullstory/Battery-Terminals-are-lead-free-481147
Best Terminal in my opinion: Brass like this -->http://www.appleinternational.com/b...ucts/brass-battery-terminals-connectors/brass-battery-terminals-connectors.html
 
My battery in the Focus hasn't been at 12.x volts for a long time per test mode. 14.6 v from the alternator and about 11.8 off. Is this a sign of a bad battery?
 
My battery in the Focus hasn't been at 12.x volts for a long time per test mode. 14.6 v from the alternator and about 11.8 off. Is this a sign of a bad battery?
Yep, but I would verify that reading with a quality voltmeter first and take the reading directly at the battery terminals. Fully charged, a lead acid battery should produce about 2.10 - 2.14 volts per cell or between 12.6 and 12.8 volts after the surface charge is removed. (Run the headlights for a minute then shut them off before you take the reading) 11.8 is very low and may indicate a sulfated battery or a dying cell. I am surprised your car will crank with that voltage and that's why I would verify that reading at the terminals. You can figure out a bad cell by using a hydrometer to test the electrolyte of each cell. The specific gravity falls as the cell discharges. Specific gravity should not vary more than .05 between cells.

Charge S.G. Voltage

100% 1.265 12.7
75% 1.225 12.4
50% 1.190 12.2
25% 1.155 12.0
Dead 1.120 11.9

I just bought one of these to plug in to the power port in my console to keep an eye on voltage. $3.42 with free shipping:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H8MHZGU/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

Attachments

Glad i watched the video. Very LONG, but still worth knowing about how to get off the covers, etc.
Agree some ofthe issues may come form bettery being discharged to far while sitting at dealer.
I hope my battery. Which was installed/built end July 2011, I bought it end August 2011 with 6 miles on it.. Will last.
 
My battery in the Focus hasn't been at 12.x volts for a long time per test mode. 14.6 v from the alternator and about 11.8 off. Is this a sign of a bad battery?
Not according to Ford lol.
I brought mine in and they said everything was normal. That the car isn't supposed to get more than a half hour before the low battery warning appears (lol)

I think the battery is just undersized for all the stuff the focus has... With all this super cold weather my Focus has still started easily but I haven't been using it on battery at all.
 
Odd thing is the car still started fine maybe slower in the cold though.

Not according to Ford lol.
I brought mine in and they said everything was normal. That the car isn't supposed to get more than a half hour before the low battery warning appears (lol)

I think the battery is just undersized for all the stuff the focus has... With all this super cold weather my Focus has still started easily but I haven't been using it on battery at all.
Technically the radio should turn off in half an hour with the engine off, but that should not result in a low battery warning light afaik, so that doesn't make much sense.

Not sure right now as the car is kind of buried in the snow from this past storm and it's been too cold to dig it out just yet.
 
Technically the radio should turn off in half an hour with the engine off, but that should not result in a low battery warning light afaik, so that doesn't make much sense.

Not sure right now as the car is kind of buried in the snow from this past storm and it's been too cold to dig it out just yet.
Right. Couple times it did that then I turned it back on and a few minutes later it gave the low battery warning. Other times it never made it to the 30 minute auto-off.
 
I feel like my battery is on the way out. All was fine. Got my system installed. Voltage was up around 14.2 - 14.4 while playing. Then about a week or so of having it installed, the voltage just dropped to like 13.1. Sits there while the car is running. Idle, driving no matter what, it's at 13.1. and drops to like 11.8! But when I decelerate, the voltage goes up to 14.2 - 14.4 until I put my foot back on the gas and it drops back to 13.1.

Yanked the system out and voltage is the same in Test Mode.

Upgrading my battery in the near future.
 
Geez they don't make anything easy in these new cars. Only other car I owned that the battery was a PITA to remove was my Chrysler Intrepid. You had to remove the right front wheel, remove a panel in the inner fender well and then slide the battery backwards out the wheel well. I owned the Intrepid though for 5 years and the battery was still putting out juice fine. I just changed it as a preventive measure because that's how I am: I change stuff before it goes bad, I don't wait until something fails.

Now my Dodge Magnum was easiest car battery to replace. It was in the "trunk" so you just lifted up a panel under the rear floor and there it was easy as heck to get to.
 
Yep, but I would verify that reading with a quality voltmeter first and take the reading directly at the battery terminals. Fully charged, a lead acid battery should produce about 2.10 - 2.14 volts per cell or between 12.6 and 12.8 volts after the surface charge is removed. (Run the headlights for a minute then shut them off before you take the reading) 11.8 is very low and may indicate a sulfated battery or a dying cell. I am surprised your car will crank with that voltage and that's why I would verify that reading at the terminals. You can figure out a bad cell by using a hydrometer to test the electrolyte of each cell. The specific gravity falls as the cell discharges. Specific gravity should not vary more than .05 between cells.

Charge S.G. Voltage

100% 1.265 12.7
75% 1.225 12.4
50% 1.190 12.2
25% 1.155 12.0
Dead 1.120 11.9

I just bought one of these to plug in to the power port in my console to keep an eye on voltage. $3.42 with free shipping:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H8MHZGU/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Didn't run the headlamps specifically, although they came on when I opened the door as did all the interior lights for at least 15-60 seconds before hand. The car was finally clear enough of snow tonight that I was able to get a measurement shortly after turning the car off this evening, going up to grab my DMM and heading back down to get in the car to check.

Now I'm not sure if the car is lying to me in koeo or if that plus the radio and other lights coming on is enough to drain about a volt or so, but I just probed the car with my craftsman DMM and across the terminals, or across the positive to chassis ground I was reading 12.7x volts at the battery following the drive home from work.

Car is reporting that the voltage reads around 14.3 V when the car is running, at least per test mode, but 11.8 KOEO. So I guess it might be a false alarm, but I'll probably have to check after a nights draining. Oh and the I.A. is acting up now thanks to the crazy weather we are having here. It was finally almost 40F today.
 
Another factor is how long the battery sits before being installed at the assembly plant. The batteries arrive on large pallets. If the plant has a good rotation system, they are installed in the order they are received. If not, a pallet can sit at the back for weeks. The plant shuts down for a week or more if sales are slow. It shuts down for more than a week at Christmas and a week or two for summer break. The workers may play the radio while the car sits in the plant. All of these can degrade the battery before the car goes to the dealer.
 
Just had to do roadside assistance on my 2014 Focus w/ 18000 mi purchased in 3/2014. The last time I drove the car I noticed that the first crank of the morning was extra slow, but subsequent cranks were fine. Then today I turned the key, and I got the radio/displays/lights powered but absolutely no crank. Not even a sound.

Luckily I was at home and I was only going to get groceries, so the tow truck came out and jumped it. I took it in and left it at the dealer for 3 hrs or so, and apparently it held when they recharged it. So for now, I'm still using the original battery, but I can see where this is going.

I figure Motorcraft clearly makes a crap battery if it doesn't last more than a year. Pretty crazy, considering my last Ford was a 1996 Ford Explorer with an OEM battery that I only replaced at 9 years/115000 mi out of an abundance of caution.

Maybe Kirkland?
 
I figure if it doesn't last more than a year.
Clearly. Good assumption.

Guess mine could go any day now after over 3 and a half years and over 87k miles.

There obviously couldn't be any kind of exceptions.

Heck I even had to replace the battery in my Flex after four years. I mean it wasn't completely toasted or anything, but since "Motorcraft clearly makes a crap battery" I didn't want to take any chances.
 
Guess mine could go any day now after over 3 and a half years and over 87k miles.
Based on my experience, and the experience of many posters in this thread and elsewhere, your concern is well founded.

If a battery can't last a year and a half in coastal Southern California, where a face meltingly hot day is 95 and a bone chilling cold day is 60, then it's a dud.
 
i took my car in just before the warranty expired (35,900 lol) they tested among other things, the battery. they told me the test failed and i needed a new battery - it would be ($ whatever it cost) but it would come with a warranty. i asked - doesn't the one that's in there come with a warranty? they checked - yep. okay, one more test before we can replace it under warranty.

oh, it passed that test. so... the test for charging me $ to replace the battery failed. then the test for charging ford $ to replace it passed.

i'm at 42,000 now, i don't have a lot of confidence that this battery will last a long time but we'll see i guess.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
 
i took my car in just before the warranty expired (35,900 lol) they tested among other things, the battery. they told me the test failed and i needed a new battery - it would be ($ whatever it cost) but it would come with a warranty. i asked - doesn't the one that's in there come with a warranty? they checked - yep. okay, one more test before we can replace it under warranty.

oh, it passed that test. so... the test for charging me $ to replace the battery failed. then the test for charging ford $ to replace it passed.

i'm at 42,000 now, i don't have a lot of confidence that this battery will last a long time but we'll see i guess.
Did you get that in writing? If the battery failed the test within the 3 year/36,000 mile window, it should have been replaced under the bumper to bumper warranty. The warranty status has no impact on the electrochemical state of a battery. Your dealer scammed you.
 
Just had to do roadside assistance on my 2014 Focus w/ 18000 mi purchased in 3/2014. The last time I drove the car I noticed that the first crank of the morning was extra slow, but subsequent cranks were fine. Then today I turned the key, and I got the radio/displays/lights powered but absolutely no crank. Not even a sound.

Luckily I was at home and I was only going to get groceries, so the tow truck came out and jumped it. I took it in and left it at the dealer for 3 hrs or so, and apparently it held when they recharged it. So for now, I'm still using the original battery, but I can see where this is going.

I figure Motorcraft clearly makes a crap battery if it doesn't last more than a year. Pretty crazy, considering my last Ford was a 1996 Ford Explorer with an OEM battery that I only replaced at 9 years/115000 mi out of an abundance of caution.

Maybe Kirkland?
Hi lobo411,

Keep me in the loop with your battery & related symptoms; I'll check out some options. If any symptoms return, I recommend heading back to your dealer.

Meagan
 
OK, I'm clearly not well versed in car batteries.

We're supposed to add distilled water to the batteries? Gel? What acid buildup?


Working at Autozone for the past 3 years ive seen some factors of battery failure not mentioned here.

1) Batteries are not secured down properly
2) Terminals are not maintained, have acid buildup
3) Terminals are original ones
4) Terminals are not tightened properly
5) Cold Cranking amps do not meet specs, yes having an audio system affects
6) No anticorrosive spray or gel daubed on the area
7) still iffy about this one...some batteries ive changed have a heat/cold jacket
8) battery acid wells not maintenanced...sum ppl over add distilled water
Personally ive helped lots of customers save a $100 bill by buying a $13 quart of battery acid and replenishing as needed

But yea the Motorcraft battery live span mentioned in here makes me sick to my stomach. At work, ill see few Everstart Walmart Batteries, Interstate, Energizer, or DieHard ones.

Never been a fan of the small terminals that hug the post giving it that clean look Waytek New Battery Terminals are Lead Free
Best Terminal in my opinion: Brass like this -->Brass Auto Products, Brass Battery Terminals Connectors, Brass Machine Made Battery Terminal
 
That's a long list of generic information, not all useful or applicable for each situation.

The addition of distilled water to maintain electrolyte level is required for any that are NOT of the maint. free type with sealed or no apparent caps.

"Gel" mentioned is one of a number of corrosion prevention products. Felt washers (green &red) with anti-corrosive material in them are the most often seen of this type product. Coating terminals with grease is the most basic/common prevention measure.

"Acid buildup" is the cause for most corrosion, as batteries can seep a little at the terminals. White buildup of lead corrosion or green on copper are typical results, and that is an acidic buildup. Baking soda/water solution or the same thing in a spray can are the clean up methods to neutralize acid. LOTS of water to flush is needed after that to clear the area, and treating twice is recommended.

That top up with acid might be a temp. fix for a bad battery when levels dropped, but it isn't good since the concentration changes. Water is what disappears and needs to be replaced followed by charging.

Battery care is a large subject, this info. is just on the basic trouble areas.
 
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