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slim02svt

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
My dash and all gauges, warning lights have started to flicker speedo and tach go up and down lights look like a disco flash. then it all goes dead. dead being the dash. Thought it was bad batt conn, cleaned posts did not help. Car has started to sputter then pick back up and run. I went to shut the car off when I was goin to clean posts on batt in gas station parking lot, turned off the key pulled it out and it was still running! There are also a lot of clicks when it is doin all the crazy stuff. The radio goes in and out and dead right along with other symptoms. When the cars is off the batt is showing 12.46 volts on a multi tester. got home and now the car will not start. Turn the key and lights come on, and go off when it is turned to start. Has anyone got an idea what is goin on? I have a 43 mile commute to work and the battery is still showin 12+ volts when I got home. don't think it is alternator, or the batt would have been drained a long time ago. The flickering started a few days ago but went away for a few days. Not sure but the car seems to stall a bit and sputter when I am makin a turn, like out of a parkin lot or onto an expressway ramp. HELP PLEASE![?|]
 
at 12.46 your battery is only at 85% ,get new battery cable set over time they rub together and short out and will cause this issue and cause your car to die/stall,my 04 SVT did this. Also change out to updated alternator pigtail and updated coil pigtail
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
I actually got it started after a few hours. Did not drive it but checked alt output off the post on the alt and it was only 13.89 v. I only work on cars now when they are having issue, unlike when I was younger. This seemed a little low to me. I thought off the alternator it was supposed to be 14.5 v +. A guy at work last night said he is having the same issue but it is on his chopper and he was told it was the ignition control module. I know bikes and cars are different especially when it comes to charging, but it kinda made sense. Is there a way to test the module? I don't want to just start throwing parts at the car and I live 15 miles out of town. So everything I can check without a journey to town is a plus. What and where is a good place to get batt cables and pigtails from? As always thanx to all for help!
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
just got timto work on car, went out to try and start it. The car does not start. nothing happens when u turn the key other than lights come on when key is turned to run and they go out like they are supposed to when the key is turned to start position. The battery is still showing 12.46 v. The ground wire by the alt is still attached and tight in both end connectors. I am very confused at this point, has anyone had an ignition control module go out? Could this be the problem?
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Could this be a ignition key switch problem? Has anyone had this problem before? PLEASE HELP! The computer controlled cars are so hard to work on. I have this car sitting in the driveway, can't use it because it won't start, with a 90 mile commute it is imperative that I use this car. My other car only get 20 mpg, it is not a Ford and really missing driving my little hotrod. DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY INFO ON WHERE TO START?
 
Is the Check Engine light on? Check the cable that's plugged into the back of the crank position sensor. If the cable is rubbing against something or damaged, it'll cause the car not to start without throwing a code.
 
I find the easiest way to check battery issues is charge the battery with at least a 6-amp out-put charger for a few hours. Remove charger turn on the headlights for 5 minutes, turn headlights off wait for 1 minute now take the reading and if the battery reads at least 12.3 volts battery is good and it should crank the engine. If let's say the reading on the battery was less then 12V and the battery is more then 5 years old then replace the battery. Once the engine is running at 2,000 rpm and the output of the alternator is more then 13.5 volts you are good to go (it the head lights flicker when engine running at 2,000 rpm the alternator is half dead (diode) alternator will need to be replaced.
 
To check a diode in an alternator
get a multimeter turn the scale to AC Volts and measure across the battery . There should be zero AC Volts.
If AC Volts IS seen THEN do this same test on a good running car to eliminate weird multimeter issues
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
Does anyone know if the battery cable is the same as a zx2 escort with a 2.0 twin cam? Running a little low on funds and I have one out behind the garage. Thought I would ask before I went thru the trouble of pulling it. Thanx
 
I saw that you had already told me you had this problem. What is Tousley. Also what are the other parts you had talked aboult and do they have them too? How would I go about getting ahold of them?
call Steve here 1-800-328-9552 hes a Ford dealer that hooks us up with 10% over his cost, tell him you're from the focus forum.

You need the

Battery cable set
Updated Alternator pigtail kit
Updated ignition Coil pigtail kit
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
Called and talked to Steve yesterday. Battery cable is on the way. Thanx for the heads up on this hook up! Cheapest I could find thru the dealer I usually use was $90 and it was going to take two more days to get here. I will definitely call him back next time I need a dealer only item! Funds a little low now, gonna have to wait on pigtails unless they are a problem now also. Wish I would have known about him when I was doing all the piston and valve work when t belt went out!
 
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