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pig4bill

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
This is mostly an fyi thread, because I had trouble finding info on the subject.

Bought the car new in Jan of 2012, battery passed away in May of 2013. That's pretty horrible battery life. There was no prior indication of it going bad. No alternator lights or low battery warnings. I spend 3 hours a day on the freeway, so it has plenty of time to recharge every day.

I came out in the morning, took a short run to the store, and shut everything off. Four hours later I came out to make a food run, and it was basically dead. It had enough to juice to run the door locks (thank goodness) but not enough to even bump the starter. It had 10.45 volts on my voltmeter. It should have 13 or 14. Although the weather is very moderate in this area, I wanted to check the water levels (in hot dry areas like Arizona even "maintenance free" batteries lose water after a year). I could only check the cells in the front, and one cell was a little low, but not very bad. I left the charger on it all night, and it would not take a charge at all. It started with ease when jumped, so I bought a new jump starter battery because my old one was worn out.

Monday morning I went to a dealer, but they didn't stock the battery, so I went to another one about 8 miles away. Warranty on the battery is 36 months or 36,000 miles. Mine was 17 months old and I had... 36,300 miles on it. ARGGGHHHH. I don't know what mileage has to do with battery life since the car basically runs off the alternator while it's running, other than to eliminate warranty claims like in my case.

The good news is it cost about 130 or 140 bucks for a new one, including install. I'm not sure I want a new Ford battery since the old one was so crappy. They did replace it in under an hour, so it must not be as bad a job as it looks. The damn thing is virtually buried, so it looks like a horrible job to replace it at first glance. Oh, it also cost me a weekend of rental car fees and I bought a jumpstarter battery that I should not have needed. I was lucky that I got stranded at home instead of out somewhere.

I would recommend anyone with a Focus a year or more older get a small jumpstarter battery (about 50 bucks at Home Depot) and keep it in their trunk. Yes, you can call roadside service, but then you have to wait for them to come and it could be a long wait if you're out in the boonies. I had NO warning and these batteries are clearly defective to be failing so quickly.
 
The battery is easy to pull and replace, but unfortunately it's not covered in the manual.

It goes something like this (going from memory here) :

Disconnect ground at strut tower.
Remove lid
Disconnect positive at post
Pull front "gate" of battery box up, and hinge it down
Remove battery tie-down bracket
Slide battery partially out to disconnect negative at post
Slide out to remove

Reverse for installation
 
That's ridiculous no battery should did that quickly. Do you happen to know your build date? I'm wondering if your car is like mine and sat on the lot for a while before purchasing. (mine longer than most) Mine is a Sept 2011 build date that i bought in April 2013. I think i should get my battery tested then. Really sucks that you were only 300 miles out of warranty, ford should do something about that

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Happened to me after 8 months of owning the car. Luckily I was still under warranty and the dealer replaced it no charge. They put in a Motorcraft Max battery, which is hopefully better than whatever came from the factory. Haven't had any issues since, knock on wood.
 
About a year after owning my Focus its battery died too. Mine also had a pile of battery acid on the positive terminal but I have no clue why. I was at 35600 when the dealership changed it so I guess I got lucky but they did a bad job changing it. They removed both top pieces of the battery job cover and the battery (I think) is seated too far back and I can't for the life of me figure out how to get the rear part of the cover back on >.<
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
The battery is easy to pull and replace, but unfortunately it's not covered in the manual.

It goes something like this (going from memory here) :

Disconnect ground at strut tower.
Remove lid
Disconnect positive at post
Pull front "gate" of battery box up, and hinge it down
Remove battery tie-down bracket
Slide battery partially out to disconnect negative at post
Slide out to remove

Reverse for installation
I can't see how, going by your description. My battery is right up against the airbox. There's no room to move any gate, and even if it wasn't there, there's no room to slide the battery out.
 
My battery failed after 3 months of ownership, Ford quickly replaced it. I don't have an issue with it, its a battery and they fail. Better the battery than the transmission.
 
Halfway decent batteries don't fail in less than 3 or 4 years. Not at the rate these Focus batteries do. The battery that came in my BMW worked great for 10 years.
Yea my walmart battery in my montero was 5+ years old and it was still going strongish, and I have no doubt that that was a crap battery (AAA even said that the walmart books were wrong and that the battery was undersized lol).
 
Meh...I guess the quality is dropping. My 02 V6 still had the factory battery when I sold it in 08. My 07 Focus still has the factory battery at 110k. My 03 Cobra went out in 2011 but our 04 GT went out in 06...who knows.
 
The battery is easy to pull and replace, but unfortunately it's not covered in the manual.

It goes something like this (going from memory here) :

Disconnect ground at strut tower.
Remove lid
Disconnect positive at post
Pull front "gate" of battery box up, and hinge it down
Remove battery tie-down bracket
Slide battery partially out to disconnect negative at post
Slide out to remove

Reverse for installation
Here's a video for battery removal and install.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PcMapd-Z3Lg

This guy is very detailed. Has other vids for MK3's.
I have been fortunate enough not to have to remove my battery, but I have been curious about removing it since I got my Focus a year ago. The downloaded factory shop manual specifies removal of the air box as a step in battery removal. The moomoo97 video requires you to tilt the battery a lot to clear the air box. I wonder about battery acid sloshing out. Plus, I think he grabs it by a terminal, which is a no-no. I had been taught to keep the battery level under all circumstances. TboneZX3, what is your experience?
 
Couple things;

1) Batteries can fail early. It does happen. My wifes Honda Shadow had a brand new battery from the dealer (I watched them put it in), failed 3 months later. Same brand (Yuasa) is in my Kawasaki and is 7 years old.

2) Batteries will begin to become damaged when they dip below 12.4 volts. That's the point at which sulfation occurs. Your car may still start and run just fine, but below that, sulfate crystals will form on the plates impeding the batteries ability to hold a charge. This could've even happened at the dealer, if the battery was left 'dead' for days and then recharged! This is why some people use 'battery tenders' on things like boats, lawn mowers, motorcycles; etc. Things that may sit for months and not be used; to prevent them from dropping in voltage.

3) The oft quoted '13 or 14 volts' is not always accurate. When the vehicle is RUNNING, yes, it should be between 13.5~14.9 volts. Most run right around 14.1 volts. However, without the vehicle running, above 12.4 is acceptable. Most batteries (I say most because it can vary!) will run about 12.6~12.8 when fully charged. Remember that when you stick a meter on a running car (or use a gauge in the car), it's reading the total voltage of the cars electrical system, not JUST the battery. Also note that those numbers are assumed 'without load'. However, with OR without load, going below 12.4 volts for any extended period of time is harmful to the battery.

If you have a phantom draw you'll know by now, your new battery will be dead! But it's really not all that uncommon for a brand new battery to fail. It's not a precision instrument, it's a bath of chemicals (namely sulfuric acid) and lead plates. Plates can be damaged in shipping, sulfation could occur prematurely, etc. etc.
 
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Yes, of course a battery can fail early. Several examples have already been cited in this thread.

It is the failure rate of the OE battery that is in question.
Fair enough!

The issue though; is that there are a lot of variables. A common cause of new-car battery failure has little to do with the reliability of the battery at all; and that's just letting it die in the lot, then waiting to recharge it. Say you've got a car with MyFord Touch that, before you bought it, the dealer liked to show off MFT with. Not on test drives, but just, sit in the car, key on, playing with MFT. Or lights were left on (not a good example with cars that auto shutoff but you get the point). Even just keys being left on. Then the battery dies, but what's worse, is that several days (or even just several hours) go by before it's noticed. Battery is recharged in the shop and it tests ok so it's back out on the lot. Problem is, since it was below 12.4 volts for a long time, the sulphuric acid broke down an crystals formed on the plates. Voltage up; everything is okay; except most of those crystals are still there (some break down back into the acid but most don't).

So all I'm saying is, we don't necessarily need to all carry around a spare battery; because new batteries from new cars in dealers are prone to failure; because of the dealer, not the battery. Next time your at a powersports dealer (boats, motorcycles, ATV's, etc.) take a look. A lot of them have little pigtail leads hanging from under the seats. Those are battery tender leads installed by the dealer so that they can get periodic charging. Those smaller batteries are ESPECIALLY prone to these issues, and the dealer is sick of angry people complaining about batteries only lasting a few months! Dealer keeps the batteries on a tender once a week or so, and no more complaints!
 
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