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Odometer test mode wont go away.

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Fattie

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
almost everytime i start the car (04 2.3 sedan) the odo says test and the trip meter doesnt work. sometimes it does , sometimes it doesnt. whats going on ?

also , all interior and exterior lights flicker. ive checked all my grounds and mess with the plug on the alt. any other ideas ?
 
#2 ·
The test mode thing sounds like the computer thinks you are pushing the odometer reset button all the time. I haven't looked through the diagrams, but that button probably is a switched ground, so if the CPU sees voltage drop there, it thinks the button is being pushed.

So if you have a poor connection and low voltage at the dash sometimes, which you may due to the flickering lights symptom, the test mode thing may just be another symptom of a larger electrical problem rather than it's own separate issue.

Check the A-pillar grounds too, or just the ones under the hood?
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
elsolo said:
The test mode thing sounds like the computer thinks you are pushing the odometer reset button all the time. I haven't looked through the diagrams, but that button probably is a switched ground, so if the CPU sees voltage drop there, it thinks the button is being pushed.

So if you have a poor connection and low voltage at the dash sometimes, which you may due to the flickering lights symptom, the test mode thing may just be another symptom of a larger electrical problem rather than it's own separate issue.

Check the A-pillar grounds too, or just the ones under the hood?
Click to expand...
thats kind of what i was thinking. I just did an engine swap in the car and it didnt do it before the swap so im pretty sure it wouldnt be the grounds in the cabin. Im thinking it has something to do with the alternator , im gunna swap out another tommorro and see.

im also taking it to a real mechanic to diagnose a clunk i cant figure out so im going to ask him about that as well.

one other thing. i replaced the battery and the one i got at walmart is a little smaller than the stock one. im a little confused by this because it is the battery recommended in there battery book. i believe its the same CC amps just a little smaller , would this have anything to do with it ?

now for the grounds in the engine bay , there is one that connects to the block , one on the driver side and one on the passenger side by the power steering tank. thats it for engine bay grounds correct ?

car is a 2.3 if i didnt already mention that. thanks
 
#4 ·
I haven't poked around with the wiring under my hood yet, so just from looking at the wiring diagram for a '03 2.3:

There are these engine compartment grounds:
G103 (appears to be main battery cable) and says "left side of engine compartment"
G104 "at cyl head"
G100 "left front of engine compartment"( left headlights, foglamps)
G101 "left front of engine compartment" (ABS, IMRC, elec stability)
G102 "right front of engine compartment" (right headlights, cooling fan)
 
#6 ·
Fattie said:
one other thing. i replaced the battery and the one i got at walmart is a little smaller than the stock one. im a little confused by this because it is the battery recommended in there battery book. i believe its the same CC amps just a little smaller , would this have anything to do with it ?
Click to expand...
Fattie, that should not have anything to do with it as long as walmart battery is correct spec. for your car.
 
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Discussion starter · #7 ·
ok tonight was fun. took the car on a 100+ mile trip , almost home and the battery light comes on when i turned the headlights on, and only when the headlights on. took the car to autozone , they tested the alt and it failed. bought a new one , replaced it and the battery light came on instantly with the lights off.

went back to autozone , they tested the new one and it failed. So i said screw and drove the car around untill it died. swap batterys with my other focus to get it back home. This time it only took about 8 miles for the fully charged battery out of my other focus to die and the car barely made it back to my house.

so for tommorrow im gunna rip out the "new" alt , have it tested on autozones machine inside. if it fails , i hope i can get a new alternator fast. if it passes then im guess the connector or wiring to the alt is at fault.

im wondering why with the old alt the battery never died on my 100+ mile trip , and with the new one it died in only 10-15 miles. very weird.
 
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Fattie
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