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Jetta555

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I have a 2010 ford focus SE and i do have at this moment two 15" kicker comp running on a 500 watt Alpine amp. This thing bumps and shakes my headlights like crazy. But knowing me i want it louder ( it might be because im going deaf and cant hear it or im not shaking the neighborhood enough) My question is, what can my car handle wattage wise? Im not real smart when it comes to car audio so sorry if i sound stupid. i dont want to mess anything up and i dont want to mess with the wiring ether. As is it, all factory, what can the car handle safely? i was thinking 1000 watts for subs and 500 watt for new door speakers? Would you suggest this or not? i dont want to burn up my alternator or anything else so from what you guys know what would you suggest wattage wise as the safe limit for my ride since i keep the volume up 24/7? Thank you and GOD BLESS!!
 
What's your budget?

What is said 500 watt amp?
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
What's your budget?

What is said 500 watt amp?
Well i already know what i want to upgrade my speakers and subs to, i just want to know if 1500 watts power ( 1000 watts subs, 500 door speakers) is to much for the factory set up because i dont want to alter the engine at all, just using factory. I do have right now a 500 watt Alpine amp on two 15" Kicker comps.
 
It is pushing it without upgrades at that point with all stock IMO.

What size is you wiring kit for the amp?

Do you know what the big 3 is?
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
It is pushing it without upgrades at that point with all stock IMO.

What size is you wiring kit for the amp?

Do you know what the big 3 is?
Honestly i dont remember the wiring size. Best Buy installed it all for me and i cant remember off the top of my head. I wanna say 0 but that dont sound right What upgrades could i do to make it better that wont require rewiring things? and i have heard of the big 3 but i dont really understand it. Can you explain it to me in a dumb person way lol and what do you think the factory can handle as is? the sales guy at best buy told me 1000 watts would be a max because the altenator would catch fire from his personal experience, but those sale guys seem to me like they have the IQ of a dead raccoon so idk who to listen to lol
 
1000 watts with big 3 should realy be the limit. but since you dont want to do the big 3 i would say no more then 500-750 watts. gotta have power to make power, small out put stock alt with stock wiring means low power.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
1000 watts with big 3 should realy be the limit. but since you dont want to do the big 3 i would say no more then 500-750 watts. gotta have power to make power, small out put stock alt with stock wiring means low power.
What is the big 3 and what does it require me to do? i am confused on what it is and how it works? could you explain this to me?
 
the big 3 consists of upgraded power and ground wires on you alt and battery. can even upgrade the engine ground.
 
You will be good up to right about 1000rms then you will notice alot of headlight dimming thus voltage drops.
The best solution is a HO alt but swapping your stock battery for a deep cycle battery can be a good temporary fix or longer if your only 1000-1500rms.
I just ordered a kinetik 1400 which they say is rated to up to 1400 rms systems. Im putting it in the trunk and im going to use my stock battery up front until i either order a second kinetik for there or just a yellow top.
The Big 3 is very simple and is a definite must for any rms over 500 in my opinion.
I have been doing alot of research into going with bigger setups and ive actually had about 10 different sub/amp combos in my car since i got it in august 2010 lol.
You have to remember though that
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
thank you all for the help :) now i got an idea of what to do about the big three.

02fordsvt - thank you for the thread this will help alot

elizabeth- im trying to make myself heard :) atleast i made it half way across the country :p

crice8 - what is the kinetik thing your taking about and what does it do?
 
the kenitic thing is a battery, its designed for high output stereo systems. the proplem with added batteries compared to a high output alternator is that the battery will only hold a charge for a short period of time while the H/O alt will create power while driving.

the battery helps when at an idle, the ho alt helps when at 1800 rpm driving down the road.

you can get a good h/o alt for 350-450 and the good batteries will cost about 200-250 each.
 
the kenitic thing is a battery, its designed for high output stereo systems. the proplem with added batteries compared to a high output alternator is that the battery will only hold a charge for a short period of time while the H/O alt will create power while driving.

the battery helps when at an idle, the ho alt helps when at 1800 rpm driving down the road.

you can get a good h/o alt for 350-450 and the good batteries will cost about 200-250 each.
Heard back from singer. for our gen they can do a 230amp alt for $409 shipped
 
yeah anything is doable but its not always something that is recomended. i have a rockford t1500.1bdcp at 1 ohm rated to do just under 1900watts at 14.4 volts does 1500 at 12.2 volts. havent done the big 3 and i have an interstate deep cycle battery and a rockford 10 farad cap with 1/0 from front to back and i was seeing drops as low as 11.2, of course though i know have h.i.d.'s and my voltage now drops as low as 11.32. not a big difference but a difference.

my fix to the proplem is the 250amp singer alt thats waiting to be installed ( waiting on wires for big 3 ). then after i get some more money ill be doing an upgraded battery under the hood.
 
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