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Dry sump question?

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#21 ·
I forgot about them , they have the kool Duratec valve cover , very costly

They also have the tank , brackets , cooler , filters , fittings , regulator etc thats needed

Thats not a bad price on the pan and pump , looks like a 3 stage as well , wouldnt do any less then that

Tom
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
iminhell said:
Looks like ARE makes one also, http://www.drysump.com/FordZetec.htm.
Again no tank or filter.
Price is listed as $656.
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Thanks for the found[thumb]
I'll be asking for the stage3 Complete Zetec Dry Sump Kit and for nothing to be left out.
I hate buying focus part only to find out later on Ohh you need this and that to make it all work

teamDFL said:
Nice find. Do you think that there Is enough room on a Focus to add the mandrel to the crank for the pump drive?
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I'll be asking this question, It's gotta fit right the 1st time.
 
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Discussion starter · #23 ·
teamDFL said:
You would also have to make bracket to mount the pump as it appears to bolt directly to the side of the pan.
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I called them this morning and yes I would have make bracket up and the pump is an uni type style so I would cnc that to make it fit.

I have send an email to get more info but, I'll be placing an order
 
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#24 ·
Excellent. Please keep us posted. If you can put up all the part numbers and templates for the brackets, that would be a huge service to the Focus community.
 
#25 ·
I have a dry sump on my zetec, what are the questions again?

Also CFM's billet gears are breaking just like stock gears, I haven't really seen a pattern or cause. There is a huge thread thats several pages long about this on another forum.
 
#27 ·
I didn't see page two of the thread. I need to address a few post that were made:

1. You dont need a check valve, I have full oil pressure when engine starts up and reduced pressure (generally 15psi -20psi) during cranking. My car sits for long periods of time (very long in my case) so this is a very good example of not needing one.

2. Pump must be level or below the pan fittings...at most it can be a 1/4" above level. But I wouldn't ever go that way.

3. Zetec doesn't need a cooler, zetec doesn't produce enough heat even with a turbo I've yet to get anywhere near danger oil temp levels. If anything get a coolant based oil cooler to help keep oil temps more "steady"

4. ARE's pans are shit, Redline uses Pace brand products just rebranded and resold.

5. Run a canister style oil filter, one of my biggest headaches has been keeping screw on type filters.

6. Peterson fluid systems does make the most bad ass shit for dry sump, but alot of it is to much oversized for the zetec.

7. Make sure to run inline filters on the scavanges to protect the pump.

8. If you live in colt climate and plan to drive the zetec..get a heater put in the dry sump tank.

9. Titan's pan is reversible (pump is) but you'll have to drill holes in the flange, find a different belt (size included is to short), and figure out the scavenge lines.

10. The dry sump pulley fits fine on any U.S. zetec crank, if you remove the crank bolt you'll see where the bolt bottoms to the crank snout is about 3/8's of a inch. The pulley sets in that and also has a key in it which sets in the crank pulley. The OEM bolt works fine. I can measure if you want but if I remember right the pulley sits 1/2" past the crank pulley. Its pretty small.

11. Don't get the waterpump kit from titan if you have a 98.5 or newer zetec. It wont work on our pump...only the older zetecs with the waterpump provision in the center of the block (huge hole)

I'll post more alittle later..at work.. I'll also get some pictures up.
 
#28 ·
inis said:
3. Zetec doesn't need a cooler, zetec doesn't produce enough heat even with a turbo I've yet to get anywhere near danger oil temp levels. If anything get a coolant based oil cooler to help keep oil temps more "steady"
Click to expand...
Please define danger level. Fahrenheit or Celsius.
 
#29 ·
CFM Billet oil pump here, I have the limiter set at 8100 right now, been going strong for 6 months now.

What are you trying to rev too
 
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#30 ·
I'm not saying all of them break, but I've seen a good number of them do so. We could probably start that off as a entirely new thread though. Personally I'd either go dry sump, oem pump with swain tech coatings or just a OEM pump.
 
#33 ·
inis said:
I'm not saying all of them break, but I've seen a good number of them do so. We could probably start that off as a entirely new thread though. Personally I'd either go dry sump, oem pump with swain tech coatings or just a OEM pump.
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I have to agree if your going to turn the Zetec engine past about 7600 then you should go drysump , not just because of the gears but because the flow of the oil past a given RPM

Because of the harmonics the Zetec has I do think the billet gears are the best to a point , i dont see where coating would help

Tom
 
#34 ·
1turbofocus said:
I have to agree if your going to turn the Zetec engine past about 7600 then you should go drysump , not just because of the gears but because the flow of the oil past a given RPM

Because of the harmonics the Zetec has I do think the billet gears are the best to a point , i dont see where coating would help

Tom
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there has been a couple guys on TZ with oem gears coated and have had great success with them. None of them are turning a high hp zetec though.
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
inis said:
I have a dry sump on my zetec, what are the questions again?.
Click to expand...
Where did you buy your dry sump kit from????
Any chance I can talk to you? Pm your number
 
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#40 ·
Rod H said:
I am using an Armstrong Race Engineering (ARE) dry sump. I've been very pleased with it.

That said I am running a rear wheel drive set-up and I only occasionally put the car on the track. Also I don't run past 7200rpm.

You can check out ARE:
http://www.drysump.com/FordZetec.htm
Rod
Click to expand...
this is RWD system...
 
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