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FocusRacingAustrali

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Before I go ahead and buy this kit next month I have a few question about this kit.

This kit is designed to run off the crank, should it be place there????

CFM oil pump are they any good and if so how far can it be push before breaking point????

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You are going to be in a pretty small group running a dry sump, so I am not sure how many answers you will get. I don't have one, but I investigated getting one for another project, so I will share what I can to help you.

Most systems run off the front of the crank. Some run off a cam, some run off the flywheel, but these are exceptions and available only on the most popular of engines (aka the small block Chevy). The drives are usually by toothed Gilmer belts, although a few employ a poly rib serpentine belt. As with everything, belt tension is very important.

I have never heard of CFM, yet, although we share a common language and interest, as we are on near opposite sides of the world that isn't entirely surprising. My advice is to look for used units for sale (end of season is usually the best time) and see if you can find any pattern of problems. Are they all being sold with stripped threads or a bad bearing? This would tell you something.

Typically, dry sump pumps are made to the highest level of quality because their failure causes massive amounts of damage. At $1000 or more, a dry sump pump is a significant investment, but when it is supplying a $25,000 Late Model engine, not many people are going to take a chance by saving $200 on an unknown brand.

Hope this helps and please post up pictures of your project.
 
1turbofocus should know more about these systems. Cfm's billet oil pump gear is better than stock, but not by much in the grand scheme of things. Stock should never be pushed pass 7400 rpm, cfm's lasts until 7800 IIRC.

Matt
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Where is the rest of that dry sump kit , the tank and filter is missing

Yes you would run this from the front of the crank

The CFM oil pump in my opinion is good to about 7500-7600 anything over those RPM and you need a dry sump system

Tom
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Tom
is this what your talking about?

dry sump kit removes the standard oil pump replaces it with a three stage belt driven pump with one pressure and two scavenge stages. The kit contains the CD2000 oil pump, baffled cast aluminum sump pan and drive kit. The pump is mounted to the sump on the RHS (inlet side). A 1.17:1 water pump drive kit is available at extra cost. Oil pump is supplied with JIC fittings. PUMP MOUNTED ON RHS (INLET SIDE)

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Discussion starter · #9 ·
Hmm ok. so what is missing? What do I need to ask about this kit, what else is incl?
 
And based on where Tom is located, not only does he have direct access to the best pump manufacturers in the country, he probably can save a lot of money by buying used tanks and other parts. I know I have plumbed cars for 30% or less of retail by using NASCAR takeoff parts.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Discussion starter · #15 ·
No thay dont make anything for a Zetec engine

Tom
So you give me the link because????
Can I please have link or ph to a company in the U.S. who does????
thats got photo and price of an dry sump kit what I am after
 
To show you what was missing from the lit you showed , you need a sump tank , in line filter and depending on how you mount things a acheck ball/one way valve

No one I deal with in the US has a Zetec dry sump kit , raceline and the one you pictured are the ones I have seen used the most

Tom
 
Maybe.
But nothings saying that you have to leave the pump where they designed the mount. You could move it up or down if you wanted to make it fit anywhere. Just have to deal with custom made pulleys and whatnot.


Was hoping Inis would've commented in here by now. Sent him a pm to make sure he see's this.
 
Maybe.
But nothings saying that you have to leave the pump where they designed the mount. You could move it up or down if you wanted to make it fit anywhere. Just have to deal with custom made pulleys and whatnot.
You would also have to make bracket to mount the pump as it appears to bolt directly to the side of the pan.

The fitment I would be concerned about isn't the pump. As you said, that can be moved. What concerns me is added length to the crank snout for the Gilmer belt drive. It isn't like there is a ton of room between the crank pulley and the frame rail. No matter where the pump goes, you have to add another pulley to the crank to drive it.
 
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