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Brake Noise After Changing Pads/Rotors

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RS3RS

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I changed my front brakes and replaced them with brand new Wagner rotors and Wagner pads. Ever since, when I take off from a stop or drive below 20 mph or so, the right front brakes make a noise.

The noise is sort of like ".... HONK ..... HONK ...... HONK ...." with a pause in between each honking noise. It doesn't seem to do it once I'm up above 20 or 30 mph or so.

Now, this only happens when the brakes are hot. When I first start driving, there is no noise, but after braking to a stop from 55 mph or so, it'll do it until the brakes have cooled off.

It also doesn't do it when it's super cold outside (it's been below 30 degrees or so lately, and it doesn't do it unless it's warmer out), so heat is definitely an issue.

I've already taken the wheel off, removed the rotor and the pads, and inspected all of them. I can't see anything visually wrong (to my very untrained eye). I reassembled everything, and the noise is still there. [???:)]

It's actually been 3 months since I changed them, I was waiting to see if the noise would go away after break-in, but no dice.

Any advice? [???:)]
 
#2 ·
My guess is that the rotors you have aren't perfectly true (aka.... have some runout.... which isn't unusual with some rotors ...usually inexpensive ones). When the rotor heats up and expands it begins rubbing on the pads. The only fix is to have the rotors trued to tighter runout tolerance (.002" or so max.) or wait until the pads wear a little.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
mac@tirerack.com said:
did you do the brake job yourself?
Click to expand...
I did, it was my first brake job. User error is certainly a possibility, but I don't know what specifically I would have done wrong.

BTW, I forgot to mention in my original post that the sound happens only when I'm not pressing the brakes, or when I'm just pressing them lightly. If I press them medium or firm strength, the sound goes away.

That's probably important information I left out [?|]
 
#6 ·
Did you go through the bedding process? 3-5 stops at 75% from 35 MPH, then 2-3 stops from 50MPH then a 30 minute cool down?

If not, you can have brake material buildup and it can give a "wobble" to the rotor becuae the buildup isnt consistant. The brake pad material is purposfully applied to the rotor surface which gives proper brake fricton from the pad to the rotor (fire patch). If it doesnt get applied evenly you could experience your symtom.
 
#7 ·
Sometimes.....there is enough crap/rust build-up on the hub itself (the part that the rotor touches), that will make a perfect rotor wobble slightly as it turns.

Take the rotors back off and sand down the hubs till they're perfectly clean. And do the same to the inside of the wheels around the stud holes.

While you're at it......take all the pads back off. Lay a piece of new 100 grit sandpaper on a flat surface (like a pane of glass), and rub the pad friction surface on the sandpaper(rotating as you sand). You may have high spots on a pad that never broke in.

Also.....make sure the pads are not binding on the caliper itself. Sand down any tight spots. Buy some brake caliper grease (I use the copper kind), and lightly coat all the spots that touch the pads.

^^^^^All that stuff would be normal installation procedures for a good break mechanic.

Wagner stuff is high quality....I doubt there's anything wrong with the new parts.
 
#9 ·
well when i put on my new brake pads i went for a focus run -.-. needless to say i forgot i put them on and ended up cracking them so they squeal now.

that was my bedding process make quick stops around multiple corners at high speeds!!! [rofl]
 
#11 ·
I dont know if you turned your rotors or not but you should always have them turned down when you change pads. I even turn new rotors when I buy them and if you think because they are new that they are true you are completly wrong. I have seen many brand new rotors come out of the box and put them on the turning machine to find out that they are not flat and true.
And like the other guy said you have to break in your new brake pads before using the car if you want to get the most out of your breaking system.
 
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Discussion starter · #12 ·
bluefront said:
Sometimes.....there is enough crap/rust build-up on the hub itself (the part that the rotor touches), that will make a perfect rotor wobble slightly as it turns.

Take the rotors back off and sand down the hubs till they're perfectly clean. And do the same to the inside of the wheels around the stud holes.

While you're at it......take all the pads back off. Lay a piece of new 100 grit sandpaper on a flat surface (like a pane of glass), and rub the pad friction surface on the sandpaper(rotating as you sand). You may have high spots on a pad that never broke in.

Also.....make sure the pads are not binding on the caliper itself. Sand down any tight spots. Buy some brake caliper grease (I use the copper kind), and lightly coat all the spots that touch the pads.

^^^^^All that stuff would be normal installation procedures for a good break mechanic.

Wagner stuff is high quality....I doubt there's anything wrong with the new parts.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the advice, I'm going to give this a go next warm(ish) day we get. [:)]
 
#13 ·
Hi RS3RS,

Long time since this post. I am experiencing exactly the same symptoms you describe (low speed noise, goes away when using the brake, I had the noise before and after some brake callipers & shoes were replaced recently - but that was done by a garage). Did you ever discover what was causing the noise and manage to fix it?

Thanks
 
#14 ·
Being that this is from 6 years ago he is unlikely to post. You should attempt the things posted here.
 
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#16 ·
As posted from #11......

'I have seen many brand new rotors come out of the box and put them on the turning machine to find out that they are not flat and true.'

That is true and seen it myself BUT................take the ones you have just carefully trued yourself and break your turning setup down and then re-setup like you are checking them again and AGAIN you will find that they are most likely not as true as when you turned them. It's a function of the inaccuracy of the cheaper brake turning machines that most parts places use now. They absolutely CANNOT dead repeat exactly cut job to cut job, the flaw is built into the machines themselves and they do it brand new. BTDT.
 
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amc49
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