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Rollin-a-Zx3

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Im extremely confused so i figured id turn to ppl who know focuses. I have a 2000 ZX3 with the Zetec. When i first got it it had a rough idle so i got the injectors cleaned, and replaced the TP sensor ( threw a code saying it was bad). Both really helped out but its still idling rough. I took it to a local mechanic that i trust and he did a complete diagnostic on it. He replaced every sensor he could think of, ran it on 2 machines, checked for a pluged cat, and called a tech support...all to not fix the problem. He even replaced the computer to see if that was bad.
Was wondering if anyone knew what the problem may be , or could steer me in the right direction as what to look for. The car does have a rotten egg smell coming from the exhaust after running for few mins. I know the plugs and wires have just been replaced. Thats about all i know but if you need more info let me know and ill try to give as much as i can. Thanks
 
First of all a good technician is not going to take the shotgun approach to repairing a vehicle. A good technician would diagnose properly before having to replace all kinds of sensors and spend all of your money. I would think hard about having him as your trusted technician.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
He did one thing at a time, he checked the O2 sensors, then went on from there checking one thing at a time. The computer was reading @ 3700 ft, which is way off for Greenbay wisconsin. So thats why he replaced it only to find out that wasnt the problem. He has been working on all my cars for a few years now and i have always trusted him. He didn't charge me but 35 bux for 3 days of testing on it. All the sensors were removed and he put my old ones back in.
 
Mine idles rough too but I don't know how much of it is from the danged fart can the previous owner (who is a AAA mechanic) put on it.
None.


He did one thing at a time, he checked the O2 sensors, then went on from there checking one thing at a time. The computer was reading @ 3700 ft, which is way off for Greenbay wisconsin. So thats why he replaced it only to find out that wasnt the problem. He has been working on all my cars for a few years now and i have always trusted him. He didn't charge me but 35 bux for 3 days of testing on it. All the sensors were removed and he put my old ones back in.
Well a decent scan tool should be able to test each sensor by itself, meaning that swapping them isn't needed.


Rotten egg smell, well that is a good sign that the catalytic converter is shot if the engine isn't running pig rich.
I'm not sure what the altitude has to do with anything, best I could guess is it's just a number in relation to barometric pressure, so MAFS.

I'd stick to the fuel side of things, check the fuel filters (all 3, inline and both in tank ones) and check the base fuel pressure (should be roughly 40 IIRC).
Could just be you put the wrong plugs in though.
 
You need a specif tool:


Image



Back-pressure tester. It's basically a vacuum gauge that prevents hot exhaust from getting into the gauge and damaging it.


But you said the mechanic tested for a bad cat. Maybe ask him what kind of test he preformed?
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
You need a specif tool:


Image



Back-pressure tester. It's basically a vacuum gauge that prevents hot exhaust from getting into the gauge and damaging it.


But you said the mechanic tested for a bad cat. Maybe ask him what kind of test he preformed?

I really think its the cat after reading alot of the symptoms. I dunno if he tested it or if he just said it was ok and skipped it. When i picked up the car today he told me it could be a bad valve, but recomeneded that i take it to ford. I would love to figure it out before taking it to ford as im sure they are not cheap :(
 
I was being nice for the mechanics sake before hoping something was just lost in translation, but ... the guy is an idiot. Find a better mechanic someone who has seen a fuel injected engine at least once in their lifetime. This BS with throwing parts at it, scanning it and having no clue how to read the information displayed, "testing" parts and 'eh, could be a valve' is just really shotty work. Compression test and leak-down test can give you a pretty bullet proof idea if it's a valve problem.
 
If it was a valve he would of found that with a compression test , Which a good mechanic , that would of been the first thing he did so ask him what the compression test was and if the compression test would not of ruled out the valve being an issue

No one here can do anything but guess , I would be guessing also with out a log from your car

Tom
 
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