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Well when you find a race where 1 and 2nd gear is all we use lower rotating mass will be just the thing to do
How about autocross? I have no stake in this conversation, but I had to chime in on that. At the level that this matters, you'd also need everything else on the car sorted out (especially the driver), but would it actually make a difference?
 
How about autocross? I have no stake in this conversation, but I had to chime in on that. At the level that this matters, you'd also need everything else on the car sorted out (especially the driver), but would it actually make a difference?
Uhhh what?!!? Didn't you just say that it did...like yesterday?

Well when you find a race where 1 and 2nd gear is all we use lower rotating mass will be just the thing to do
Tom
If you are confused please read my posts, #116 & 117.

Cliff Notes- Reducing rotation mass is equivalent to reducing the vehicles weight. The higher the gear the less the weight removed. Your motor does not get more powerful...no one can deny that a lighter car WILL accelerate more quickly.

I can't believe this is even being argued. [ohcrap]
 
Everyone seems to be reading between the lines and getting everything mixed up. Yes, there will be very very minimum difference hp wise but no near about enough for you to feel while racing and it most definitely won't make a difference in your times, and if it does, the difference will be measured in thousandths, if not ten thousandths of a second. Not worth the money!
 
Discussion starter · #129 ·
Grow up and stop cluttering this thread with this rotating mass debate. The title of this thread is "NA budget build" not "effect of rotating mass on acceleration/horsepower/torque".

Before it got out of hand it was informative. Thank you for that. Give the issue (and your egos) a rest now.
 
Discussion starter · #130 ·
So...I've got this cylinder block right. And I have all the lower crankcase bolts out. The seals are off as well as the oil pump, etc, etc, everything else.

This crankcase doesn't wanna come out. Any tips?
 
Discussion starter · #131 ·
N/M I got it. I just wasn't putting enough M-A-N into it [:I]



Goodbye rusty old crank.


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Hello shiny new, and smaller crank. The weight difference is noticeable when you pick it up, although only slightly. I wonder if I could run faster on a dyno while carrying this crank as opposed to the focus crank...[8]


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Another one...anybody know what this black piece is? I am going to have to get some bolts for it. It's at the top of the block on the front side. It's on the bottom of the pic because I have the block laying on its side. I know, I know...I'll have it on a stand tomorrow.


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Discussion starter · #132 ·
So, the person I bought this blcok from tapped a hole in the runner on the back of the block. He was planning to use it for oil return.



No biggie, I figure I will just plug it up with a drain plug since I am not running a turbo.



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The problem with that is the stock drain plug is too long for it. It hits the runner when screwed all the way in. Also, the plug gasket gets scraped off by the flat piece on the block next to the hole. There is not enough clearance there.



Anyone have any alternate suggestions?
 
Isn't the oil plug a 18x1" or something like that? Try going to Napa or just a simple hardware store and pick up a bolt a about .75", also get a .6" just in case.
 
Discussion starter · #135 ·
Isn't the oil plug a 18x1" or something like that? Try going to Napa or just a simple hardware store and pick up a bolt a about .75", also get a .6" just in case.

I am liking this idea. I will ask the guy at the machine shop today what he thinks I should do about it and see if he thinks this is a good idea. Reliability is a top priority to me regarding this rebuild.
 
Discussion starter · #136 ·
Looks good. Keep the pictures coming for all of us.

Pictures will keep coming, no worries.

I won't be replacing the oil pump, chain, tensioner as they are in great shape.

The timing chain guides, tensioner and such also look good. Just replacing the timing chain.

That can save me some monies.

And nobody has any idea what that black piece is? I would rather just buy the bolts from ford as opposed to getting them from a junkyard. I guess I could give them the part number...
 
Discussion starter · #140 ·
I guess I could do that. I am gonna call the parts counter sometime and just ask the guy to look up the part number.

Dropped my block, crank and rods off at the R&D today. Will take my pistons there when they get here that way they can make sure everything fits properly. Should be a few weeks before I get it back.

This will give me time to install a few other things that I have lying around, like my LC1.
 
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