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try reseting the idle. unplug the iac motor. start the motor (you may have to have a friend keep it running under the hood with the tb), adjust the idle screw on the tb till the rpm's are sitting where you want them then plug the iac back it.

mine done the same thing and it fixed mine.
 
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Discussion starter · #82 ·
try reseting the idle. unplug the iac motor. start the motor (you may have to have a friend keep it running under the hood with the tb), adjust the idle screw on the tb till the rpm's are sitting where you want them then plug the iac back it.

mine done the same thing and it fixed mine.
YOU sir are the man of the hour! :D
After fiddling with the throttle body for hours I tried resetting the idle as tls_bmx suggested.

Here's what I did:
- Cleaned and carefully centered the throttle blade so there was absolutely no sticking when fully closed.
- Pressed out the stock adjustment screw. It wasn't exactly adjustable when I got done with it.
- Replaced that with a small bolt and 2 nuts. Pic later. Worked very well.
- Set the adjustment bolt as low as possible without the blad sticking
- Reinstalled TB
- First tried to start it without touching the IAC and still had some hanging RPMs and idle was higher than I wanted, but better than earlier.
- Unplugged the IAC.. the car sputtered to about 300 RPM but still ran.
- Let the car idle for a minute with the IAC unplugged and it found 700 RPM.
- Shut the car off.
- Plug in IAC connector.
- Started the car and immediately noticed the change.

RPMs are now back to 900 where they were before my meddling and no major hanging RPMs!

Wohoo!
 
Discussion starter · #86 · (Edited)
What I've been up to lately:

- Installed an Innovate LC-1 wideband with square led display.. still figuring out some issues though.
- Moved the vac source of my boost gauge. Now it reads vac and boost.
- Wired up the lights for my gauges because I couldn't see them at night.
I spliced into the dimmable wires of the hvac controls so they dim with the rest of my lights.
- Added a 3" cheapo Summit Racing glasspack (also another thread).
Didn't do much, if anything, to lessen the drone.
I DID however refab the pipes going over my rear crossmember so there are NO more exhaust rattles!
- Routed my catch can vent filter down near the air filter. No more stinky hvac!
- Wrapped my downpipe

Upcoming plans for the next year:
- SPEC stage 3 clutch.
- Torsen Limited Slip Differential
- Something to cure wheel hop.. maybe poly mounts or a torque strap.
- Shorten (cut/weld) wastegate actuator rod to preload spring for even earlier spool
- Stiffer rear springs (has nothing to do with the turbo)

PICS

Innovate LC-1 unit:
Image


LC-1 grounds:
Image


LC-1 display.
No it should not read 9.9 after warmed up and running.
If you know why it does please tell me.
EDIT: Fixed. Had to set voltage-to-AF numbers in LC-1 unit for analog out 1.
Image


Inside of a Summit Glasspack:
Image


Random turbo pic:
Image

Downpipe:
Image
 
awesome! check in the duratec forum... egz has a write up on that LC-1... which is where im sure you got the idea from... lol

i installed my autometer wideband yesturday and the engine stays right around 14.7 where autometer's instructions says it should be...
 
at idle and cruise the a/f should fluctuate around 14.7 because of the o2 sensor trimming the stft. at wot the a/f should go down to around 11.5-12 depending on the tune and the set up
 
i havent hit WOT with my wideband... so ill try that out also tls... and ive noticed coming off the highway when i leave it in 5th and coast alittle it peaks at 16.0 it seems and starts blinking... i have the cobalt wideband a/f... i havent read all of the instructions as of yet...
 
if you are coasting (not in neutral or clutched) or engine breaking it will go lean or even shut off fuel. it is normal
 
Discussion starter · #92 ·
Thanks tls_bmx, but I do know what my values should be..

I'm certain it's a configuration issue..
It fluctuates wildly with no pattern whatsoever.. will bounce from 9.9 to 20.00 with no change in throttle.
Oh and the car runs flawlessly.
Checked the plugs at 1,000 miles and they looked new.

I haven't tweaked the tune whatsoever, and I you can believe I had my eyes glued to the A/F meter at the dyno.
 
well if it runs right the wideband is wrong cause your car would run bad if it actually fluctuated like that.

but i dont really know how to help ya, i have a uego and its installation was very simple. plug it in and go.
 
Discussion starter · #94 · (Edited)
Here's my Focus at Pittsburgh Raceway Park when it was stock.
Ran a 16.35@84 with a terrible 2.49 60'.
Should be slightly better with the turbo once the clutch and LSD are done. :)

 
Nasty write up. Thanks for putting the time into this thread. WOW
Maybe, I will document the PW install and post it. People gotta know.
 
Discussion starter · #99 ·
COST

What many have been waiting for..
Some prices do not include shipping, some do. Same with taxes.
I tried to do some formatting.. but the forum entry box just reformats it again.
I'm certain I forgot to include some things so I'm throwing in a range for my bottom line cost.
Although I got good deals here and there I didn't go "cheap" on anything, including the turbo.
I didn't buy some junk yard turbo like some may be thinking.
The turbo has 0 shaft play, spins freely and has relatively low miles (30k).

As you can see the tune is a huge chunk of the cost, and I've included the wideband.

The upcoming spec stage 3 clutch and Torsen LSD will up this cost by at least $1,000.
Look forward to that to-do thread in spring of 2008.

I estimate 150-200 hours went into this project.
Aside from the welding of the oil drain I did everything myself.

If anyone wants additional details posted about any portion of this writeup please don't hesitate to ask.

If any companies are interested in showcasing or beta-testing their products and would like me to perform a writeup PM me and we'll work something out.


Bottom line: ~ $2,400-$2,500


Breakdown

Part Price Location/Description
SCT Tuner $379.00 Lasota Racing, SCT xCal 2
Tune $250.00 Lasota Racing. 2.5 hrs
Dyno time $75.00
MAF.ia $80.00 Ebay.Open-box never used. F7370

IHIRHB-52 turbo $75.00 Used from 1988 Ford Thunderbird TC

Intercooler $80.00 Ebay. Mushimoto, black, 2.5” in/out
Intercooler Piping $72.85 2.5” aluminized kit http://store.racing-solutions.org/
BOV $20.00 Gen 1 Talon.
Air Filter $10.00 3” opening – Steve B.
2-2.5” adapter $1.88 Advance, for turbo outlet
Silicone hoses + clamps $94.53 2x2.5” 90*, 1x2.5” 45*, 13 T-Clamps www.cxracing.com
Other silicone hoses $10.00 Used
BOV hose $5.00 Advance, radiator hose
EVO IC hoses $0.00 Scott W,


Boost Gauge $65.00 And oil + gauge pod, Ford Racing, used
Boost gauge line $6.00 Advance, nylon kit
Oil gauge line $10.00 Advance, copper kit

Injectors $150.00 55# and adapters. Used. Siemens Deka 3172
Exhaust Manifold $198.00 JGS Precision kit. (I weld)
Coolant T's $10.00 $5x2 Napa. Plastic T's. 660-1593
Coolant Hoses $3.00 3ft x $1/ft 3/8” Napa.

Oil Drain Line $2.50 Napa 5/8” OD, red
Oil Feed Line $31.95 Summit racing, Aeroquip Teflon, braided stainless
Tube for oil drain $5.00 Aluminum
Tube for oil drain $5.00 Stainless
Feed line fittings $20.00 Summit racing. Aeroquip, Earl's. Appx
Various copper fittings $55.00 ACE Hardware. All NPT. Appx.

4' straight 3” pipe $19.95 Summit racing. Includes $6 handling fee
3” Magnaflow $81.95 Summit racing. 12649
3” Mandrel bends $80.00 Mandrel Bending Solutions
3” Glasspack $20.00 Summit racing
Band clamp $14.00 Summit racing
3” Flex pipe $37.00 Summit racing, PaceSetter, stainless
Catalytic Converter $25.00 Scott W. Catco high-flow
Header wrap $39.00 Advance

Oil catch can $30.00 Guy from FocalJet, used
PCV Hose $7.68 5/8 Heater hose, 6' @ 1.28
PCV breather $2.50 APC

Ultra Black RTV $5.00
Paint $25.00
Vacuum nipples $6.50 Advance, value pack
Vacuum T's $4.69 AutoZone, value pack
Vacuum connectors $3.99 AutoZone, value pack
Hose clamps $17.00 Advance, stainless, worm style
Stainless bolts $20.00 84 Lumber, various sizes, appx.
Flux core wire $9.00 Lowes, 1lb spool
Solid steel rod $5.00 3/8” for exhaust hangers
Spark Plugs $6.00 Autolite 103 .035" gap


LC-1 Wideband $199.00 Used, www.dynotunenitrous.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Total $2,372.97
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Exhaust $316.90
Charge piping $294.26
Tuning $784.00
Turbo $75.00
Gauges $81.00
Oil lines $119.45
PCV/Catch can $40.18
-----------------------------------------------------------------
“Kit-only” cost: $900.00 Not including: exhaust, gauges, tune, paint, etc. Approximate.
Huge amounts of assembly required. [strongman]
 
Discussion starter · #100 ·
Also, feel free to rate this thread as you see fit. [:)]
All comments welcome!
 
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