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trust me I have 215/40s and have some of the crappiest roads around me... construction everywhere... i've bent one wheel but that was cuz i hit a pole doing 70... the only other option was hitting the SUV next to me so i figured a wheel was cheaper than paint and a couple doors... now a 50 series tire will hold on almost anything... u can take a 2" drop... trust me u will not be disappointed... check those pics when u get home though!
 
Discussion starter · #42 ·
trust me I have 215/40s and have some of the crappiest roads around me... construction everywhere... i've bent one wheel but that was cuz i hit a pole doing 70... the only other option was hitting the SUV next to me so i figured a wheel was cheaper than paint and a couple doors... now a 50 series tire will hold on almost anything... u can take a 2" drop... trust me u will not be disappointed... check those pics when u get home though!
40's a lower profile than 50. (yeah, I know it's a ratio), but I was thinking of going the other way, "higher/taller" tires, 60's. It probably sounds like giving with one hand and taking away with the other, or, trying to have my cake and eat it to type thing, but I want to lower the car, and then put more rubber on it. bigger tires (around) on the same rims equal, yep you guessed it, MPG. that's my game. performance yes, but always with the alterior motive of more MPG. I like handling tweaks because they don't cost MPG.
 
Taller tires will affect your speedo, and thus your odometer. Without accounting for the longer radius of taller tires, you won't be able to calculate your MPG. Of course, it will still be there.

Unless the Focus ECU can be programmed for different tire heights. I'm still inept with the particulars of modern Fords.
 
Discussion starter · #44 ·
M P G . . .
I NUMBER CRUNCHED my first couple fill-ups yesterday. combined city/highway is 29.5< MPG. not exactly in the middle of the perported "27/37", but definitely respectable. That's making no big effort not to lead-foot around town, (but I do pace the hell out of the lights, old habbit) but I was making a point to keep it under 80 on the highway using the CC. I'm not going to change the rubber before what's on it is beat, so I'll know what difference the CAI made, (accurately) before that. OK, so CAI and WAXING. What else? I want 35 AVERAGE, (being 'good'). What else might I think about to get there?
 
Discussion starter · #46 ·
M P G

Then of course there is another option, which I suspect might not be super popular, but, if my main objective is MPG, I can save my money on the lowering-springs-job, and when the current tires come due for changing, fill the gap entirely WITH RUBBER. With the amount of gap that's there, I suspect you could go up quite a bit, to say, 215-65's or 220-70's, 225-70's...
It would start to look like a little mini-SUV !! (ha ha) maybe a bit too far off the ground for a non-4W-drive vehicle? too much strain on a suspension not designed for it?
 
Discussion starter · #47 ·
someone was asking about a picture awhile back. SO FYI, I've added a pic to my profile. The hood protector is not on because I'm still waiting on a missing buckle-hook....
 
Discussion starter · #48 ·
[hatchet] man I knew "filling the space with rubber" would be a "less than popular" concept, but killing the thread altogether? didn't see that one coming![dunno]
 
Discussion starter · #50 · (Edited)
No, we just lost interest, but actually filling the space with more tire is a good idea, quieter ride.
Dude. Thank You.
Ok Yes, I probably will lose some zip. but for me it's plenty zippy NOW. AND ADD the CAI and THEN the "more tire" n I espec isa near break-even. (+ quieter, smoother ride....)

...Plus if I CAN get 220 or 225's on it ok I'm BOUND to pick up SOME REDUCED SWAY cornering.... yes? no?


Rock On
 
Netmon said:
Plus if I CAN get 220 or 225's on it ok I'm BOUND to pick up SOME REDUCED SWAY cornering.... yes? no?
No. The width of the tire has nothing to do with a tires stability or slip angle. Sidewall height and construction are what you should be thinking about, if you care about cornering.
 
All-Seasons FTL! BF GoodRich G-Force Sports are on my ride... Z rated summer tires ROCK!

oh and tires dont come in 220... they come in increments of 10 starting at 5s... 185/195/205/215 etc... sidewalls are in increments of 5... 25/30/35/40/45/50/55 etc... and yes they do make 25s.... seen em on a Viper once and just looking at how little tire there was made my butthole pucker... lol
 
Discussion starter · #55 ·
FF: I had Goodrich on my, (now sold) 'onda...... lasted F O R E V E R....... longest wearing set the car ever had....
 
Discussion starter · #56 ·
No. The width of the tire has nothing to do with a tires stability or slip angle. Sidewall height and construction are what you should be thinking about, if you care about cornering.
Thanks for the input. I suspect you're right about "slip" I was thinking more about "tip" and I really wasn't expecting anything real significant....

[loveff](even if I didn't get the color I wanted)
 
ChazimusZX4ST said:
I just got my new Kuhmo ESCTA AST, mwahaha.
The Ecsta's get good reviews from DSMers concerning their track (AutoX/Solo II) and street use. I haven't used them, but I suspect you will like them. I'm rolling on Falkens right now. I don't know if I will switch to Kumho's, or stay with the Falkens when it is time to change them. Only complaint I have about the Falkens, is they need to be at temp before you get any benefit from them.

Netmon said:
was thinking more about "tip" and I really wasn't expecting anything real significant....
If by "tip", you are talking about the lateral movement the tire makes converse to the rim, that is the tires stability at speed. It will worsen with taller sidewalls. If you want a larger overall tire to improve mileage, IMO, go with larger rims, so you can keep the sidewall height from becoming too large. Higher speed rated tires (stiffer sidewalls) will give you better feel and safety at speed.
 
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