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Anaxagoras1986

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
Upgrading SVTF w/9006

What would everyone upgrade first to increase sound QUALITY in the stock stereo system? I think the stock system sounds good but it is nowhere near my basic Infinity Kappas with a JVC head I put in my Porsche. I assume the first upgrade is the speakers right?
 
A head unit. The speakers are quite nice. Even the stock speakers they put in the SVT sound great if you drop an aftermarket head unit in and tweak the settings to take advantage.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Does the amp schematic look similar to a basic amplifier or is it some kind of crazy unordthodox Ford design?
-Can you simply upgrade the amp with an afermarket one without making significant changes to the wiring?


Thanks!
 
probably. just with the addition of a larger power and ground cables of course. here is a diagram of the connector that plugs into the front of the oem amp. just tap the turn-on wire and signal wires and you should be set.
Image
 
the sub connects the oem sub like an aftermarket one would if it would have simple connectors. this would be a very simple mod. i would update the sub though if you are planning on aftermarket amp. i do believe that the interior volume of the box is 1 cubic foot. this will help you determine what sub to get. [thumb]

you will also have to measure how deep a sub you can go.
 
I've got everything changed, trust me, once you amplify everything, you won't wanna go back! :D

First thing I did with my truck, (and I learned afterwards, do it all at once and be done with it) was add a 12" sub/amp, then all new 5x7's, then an amp for the 5x7's. Now, I want more power... it's a never ending 'addiction' really.

Problem is, with a stock deck you dont get the best options, and when you add higher power components, you lose ability to control/tweak them to what you want. I used to notice grounding noise when I had a stock hu. If you want to keep the hu somewhat stock looking, Pioneer and many other mfr's build oem spec models that fit right in to the stock location without the need for an adapter.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Well I'm also very weight conscious so I don't want to add a really big sub box if I don't have to. The stock box can supposedly handle a 10" I believe right? I think that would put out some healthy bass no?

I ordered some infinity Kappas for the front speakers recently and I'm going to put them in just to start off even if they don't make a big difference.

I was looking at some pretty decent head units- I hear the Excelons are supposed to have some really clean sound and that's exactly what I am looking for. I am all about quality over quantity but at the same time I do want to be able to hear this thing with the windows down... I have a mini-pc in the car that has GPS Nav, MP3s, etc and I would really like to get a HU that has an LCD with AV+USB Touch in so I can s[:)][:)][:)][:)][:)][:)] can my 7" LCD/Touch that I have in there right now that's begging for thieves to break into my car. The FM transmitter that I have puts out horrific sound quality too so the Aux in is an absolute must for the Mini-PC to connect to it with. Any ideas?
 
The 9006 DOES have an internal amp. The only external amp is the sub amp. The head unit powers the rest of the speakers.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Really? That means I have to run all of the RCA lines for the amp to the back then right? Or should I use one of these "LOC" things?


Does anyone know if I should install some resistors in the lines for the 2 ohm Kappas?
 
No, you should be fine with the Infinity;s. The Line output converter will also work fine.
 
Something I didn't catch that I want to clarify.

The Kappa's you ordered for the front doors, are you going to amplify them, or are you connecting them directly to the head unit?

If you are connecting them directly to the head unit (powering them via the head unit), you will need to find out if the head unit is capable of a 2 ohm load (I typically thought head units could only handle 4 to 8 ohm (or higher) loads).

The comment I made about wiring a resistor in series/parallel with a speaker was general information (something you should never have to do, or want to do), not particular to your application.
 
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