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Timing Belt Swap

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inventiv

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
💥BOOM! Who wants to see how to swap out their timing belt?
Here’s a video I made showing the steps I took to change mine out at home, including the belt, tensioner, pulley and cam and crank seals. Check it out if you need to do any of this to your car. It took an epic 3 days to edit the video together so I hope you check it out and like 👍

 
#3 ·
Blue threadlocker is removeable with normal tools, usually no extra effort at all to remove it.

You'd know that if you ever tossed your fixes in bottles to actually take something apart once in a while.
 
#4 ·
If blue threadlocker is so easy to unlock, then it's no help, and using it is a waste of time. NO OTHER video guide I've seen recommends it. EVERYONE ELSE torques the crankshaft bolt clean and dry.

Meanwhile, the Pope hijacks the thread for his own personal crusade.
 
#5 ·
Oh wait I forgot about this bad advice (near the 22:55 mark). He claims "a little extra precaution." :

www.youtube.com/watch?v=MjP3dLc0Qc4

The camshaft and crankshaft bolts have broad heads. With the correct torque, the wide surface area underneath provides enough gripping force. People who understand that, don't use thread locker on these bolts. All it does is make the next job harder.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=d4IgVvfovhA
 
#6 ·
But it doesn't and more proof of how out of touch (or simply lost) you are. Yet it helps hold the bolt or nut. I've stopped a certain type of engine from backing off the connecting rod nuts to blow up before by using it. The nuts quit coming loose. Before that they could be slightly backed off on teardowns and we lost a couple of fine engines over it. Add loctite and no more lost engines.

And you don't look at the parts in your hands at all, Ford loctites parts all over their cars if you just pay attention to the threads, often what you think is corrosion on them is actually loctite remains. They usually make no announcement of it at all and you just have to pay attention but that will never be for you will it?

I also built heat exchange equipment for both Navy battleships and nuclear reactors that required bolts to be loctited in certain cases due to vibration backing off bolts screwed in at design torques. You can argue with those people if you want and you are certainly unintelligent enough to do it.

You are talking gibberish about the bolt heads and nothing said about the other half of the torque load or bolt threads which have voids in them to then be able to back off easier. Why the common lock washer was invented but they are not applicable in every case. The loctite fills those voids up to lock in another way that has nothing to do with the torque per se, they attack the problem in another way. You should study up some on the idea of partial thread which pretty much all bolts use, like 50% thread height easy fit vs. 75% close tolerance, virtually no bolt on earth uses 100% as the bolt will not go in the hole. There must be error to easily screw bolts in, the loctite fills that error.

You should really shut up instead of talking about things you have no clue of at all.
 
#7 ·
The video was actually not bad, more competent than a lot of them. I would have warned about not mixing up the 50 Torx with the 55 on the cam sprocket bolts but he clearly calls out the correct Torx to use there. A 50 can seem to be the right one until you tear or wallow out the corners off the bolt then you can't get it loose; common problem induced by not looking close enough at the work.
 
#8 ·
Something I noticed: removal of water pump pulley not mentioned, although it had been performed (along with the water pump)--pretty sure the pulley has to go to access the torx bolt for the metal timing cover.

This guy's videos are all very well done, in my opinion.
 
#11 · (Edited)
'I did NOT use thread locker, and my timing belt job has survived many 6,000 RPM WOTs.'

You can handle a rattlesnake by hand too and get away with it, an idiot would say something like that.

You're going into absolutes, which I haven't done. I never said you HAD to use it, it is just one more tool for those that think.

Sorry you cannot go there.

To other, I noticed the WP missing too but other things here have distracted my time. I was going to suggest install WP first before going to the belt, one can always use the room for left hand in there.
 
#13 ·
Uh, no.

You made it your bonafide problem when you got on that soapbox trying to subvert all logical thinking. Even your order to 'suffer' denotes you erroneously thinking you have control to order others about. You can't have control if it's not your problem, ergo, your brain is still broken, you do NOT grasp sentient thought on causal effect.

Truth is not truth, right? 2+2=6, or 9 or 23.
 
#14 ·
The Pope waffles when he's wrong. Avoids straight answers or simple positions. Blows smoke to obfuscate. Thinks everything is about him. I did this blah blah blah. I did that blah blah blah. Navy battleships? They haven't commissioned a battleship since 1944. That would make the Pope 95 or older. He also says loosen crank bolts with the starter. No wonder he's had a lot of jobs. If hired by 50, I suspect fired from 49 or rmore. He's a megalomanic who hates anyone that doesn't kiss his ring.

Before doing my timing belt job, I watched many video guides. Like srmastertech, the majority do not use thread locker. Neither do I. It's pointless and makes the next guy's job harder.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=d4IgVvfovhA

Since then, I've done many 6,000 RPM WOTs. More than enough to know I'm right.
 
#15 ·
I don't really use thread locker but it is totally okay to do so. Blue thread locker does not make the job really any more difficult.



"The difference between red and blue threadlocker is a matter of strength and removability. Loctite threadlocker blue is designed to easily be replaceable with common tools, whereas red is a more permanent fix."

You could actually try to learn how threadlocker works.

www.loctiteproducts.com

Threadlocker: Red or blue, which one’s right for you?

New to threadlockers? Everything you need to know about types,& application and removal.
www.loctiteproducts.com www.loctiteproducts.com

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
 
#17 ·
zacautomotive said:
learn how threadlocker works
Click to expand...
It's for small head bolts which have less gripping force underneath the head. As "Andy Rover P6" commented on the OPs video:

I'm lucky to own a milwaukee m18 and I had to use the top setting at 1900nm to release the bolt. Someone used tonnes of locktite on the bolt which really isn't necessary

It only makes the next guy's job harder. I've proven it's pointless. The Pope and his True Church are the ones who can't understand.
 
#19 · (Edited)
You haven't proven anything except stupidity and the desire to stay that way at all cost to you.

About 30 different types of loctite and like you don't use a 9/16" wrench on a 1/2" bolt you use the correct loctite. They used to market 3 mainly to the masses and dropped back commonly to two based on goofballs like you. (1) removeable with normal force and blue, (2) removeable with more than normal force and red, and (3) stud and bearing mount, intended to not be removed at all and used to be green. The green is now commonly red and it mixes the properties of (2) and (3). The colors can shift depending on the makers too; you MUST READ (hard for you, you barely understand video, see the below, your quotes that show that) the side of the card or container.

Simple positions? Yours below from two posts here in this thread.

'NO OTHER video guide I've seen recommends it. EVERYONE ELSE torques the crankshaft bolt clean and dry.
I watched many video guides. Like srmastertech, the MAJORITY do not use thread locker. '

That's not simple or consistent, you like always are even at war with yourself. You can't even build on your own work without messing things up. You clearly left the simple position you so revere to go to the smoke you claim you do not. As Trump goes there go you as well.

You as well do not grasp the use of the product as shown here.......

'It's for small head bolts which have less gripping force underneath the head.'

NO. The product won't even cure there and not needed there. Loctite does not cure for years if exposed to the air (why the bottles seem partially empty, the air keeps it from curing) which it is under the bolt heads and the bolt heads sink into the underlying material anyway to self lock, it is the THREADS loctite cures in when the air is cut off to them and the threads are what you are locking. READ the tube or bottle, it's called THREADLOCKER not bolt head locker.

'He's a megalomanic who hates anyone that doesn't kiss his ring.'

Trumpian again-I am therefore you must be also.

Battleships? Carriers are battleships to those that can think, just like littoral ships. The word has more than one meaning except to hillbillies.

I have to say it, I have never come across somebody as unlearned as you, not the true problem but the reinforcing against all common sense to always STAY THAT WAY makes you about 50 times worse than that.
 
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amc49
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