Focus Fanatics Forum banner
Cancel
Create thread New Garage Forums

Cruise control - downhill shudder

Jump to Latest
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
S

Shadetreemd

· Registered
2011 Ford Focus
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

I didn't find this particular issue in existing threads....

I have a 2011 SE. Cruise control works fine, but seems odd .....it shudders/jerks when going down hill. I understand downshifting to regulate speed, but this seems too jerky and not a true downshift. The tranny shifts smooth and operates otherwise really nicely. Is this normal? Seems not.
Any perspective is appreciated.

Thanks,
 
Discussion starter · #2 ·
Shadetreemd said:
Hi All,

I didn't find this particular issue in existing threads....

I have a 2011 SE. Cruise control works fine, but seems odd .....it shudders/jerks when going down hill. I understand downshifting to regulate speed, but this seems too jerky and not a true downshift. The tranny shifts smooth and operates otherwise really nicely. Is this normal? Seems not.
Any perspective is appreciated.

Thanks,
Click to expand...
Just to add...I did the self diagnosis test listed in one of the threads....but does seem to work with my year (that was for 2000-2005).
 
#3 ·
Shadetreemd said:
I did the self diagnosis test listed in one of the threads
Click to expand...
IDK what that is. Do you have a link?

Maybe electrical problems from water. If it was in the spark plug wells, maybe it got in something else too. Who knows what the previous owner(s) did. Some people will drive cars through a flooded road.

That's my "any perspective" guess.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Thanks to both. The link I referenced is this: Cruise control self diag question

OK: The thing is: I only notice this shutter when cruise is on and car is going downhill. The cruise works fine otherwise...holds speed nice & responds to button commands (accelerate, coast , etc). The shudder only happens when (cruise on), the car is trying to slow itself down hill (like modern systems do). Just plain weird.

I don't think its ignition since I don't notice this without cruise on (runs and decelerates fine). I just did plugs last week too. I will look at the engine mounts too but I have records from the dealer that they were replaced in 2018 (but I guess they could have gone again, or maybe they rep[laced just one, ...but I also don't feel much vibration either...but maybe).

I'd like to fix myself, but the car has a 30 day bumper to bumper. I'll drive the 1.5 hours to the dealer if I have too. If I can fix myself, I will (and save the 3 hour round trip and gas), but only if cost is reasonable .

Again, thanks for the thoughts. Any ideas welcome. I was thinking I might try to get someone to read codes, but not sure if cruise control would come up on that.
Thank you
 
#8 ·
Shudder and vibration are pretty much the same thing.

Check the pass side mount specifically, I've seen them shorn at the rubber to do very close to it, or shudder when the cruise is backing off throttle. Could be how sensitive the TB is too, they are electronic and they set the coast clutch drag in trans if an ATX, that can do it too.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Status update:

OK....I now think it is something to do with ignition or fuel delivery. Yesterday and today, the car had hard time starting from dead cold (in morning). I pumped it once and then ran rough and then fired up. When warm, no issue restarting. All seems smooth. I do still feel the shudder when cruise is coasting and rpms are below 2k (about 1800 I think).

To date I have:

1) replaced plugs (motorcraft oem gap of .051)
2) new air filter today (old one looked ok..but very yellow/aged) WA
3) cleaned air flow sensor.
4) checked for codes at AutoZone...none (though that was only after driving 15 miles - i disconnected battery cables and cleared codes therewith I think). Might recheck in a week.
5) however, check engine light was never on (fyi).

My only thoughts now are to wait....see if computer resets with new air filter and cleaned air flow sensor. I threw in a can of Seaform because the AutoZone guy suggested it might be injectors and I thought why not?

Any ideas? Thoughts appreciated.

Thank you,
 
#10 · (Edited)
Shadetreemd said:
I threw in a can of Seaform because the AutoZone guy suggested it might be injectors
Click to expand...
That angers some of these people. I use additives, but I don't care what they say.

Shadetreemd said:
My only thoughts now are to wait....see if computer resets
Click to expand...
Unlikely I think. Without any codes, it may take more guessing and parts. Maybe the gurus have a better idea.
 
#11 ·
If hills are steep enough might be fuel pump. I've seem them act up when car parked at a steep angle and the fuel then runs out of fuel module and low fuel level in tank makes it then act up. Fill the tank up and if the issue goes away you're there.
 
#13 ·
There's a range in which that occurs, not ALL off throttle is injectors off. Thinking the TPS has to drop below a certain level. Cruise may keep it up enough to not go there.

But you are right. Foot all the way off will likely be fuel off.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
OK update.....it's 39 degrees outside. Car sat since last night on flat ground. I went out and started it. It did not catch for 6-7 seconds....then I tapped the gas and it fired right up like normal. Seems to idle well and is smooth once started (just a tad over 1k rpm which seems good for 39 degree start up I think). I shut it down afterwards and went back inside and grumbled with a 2nd cup of coffee.😡

So, either the gremlins swapped in a carburator 😉 last night, or I have a fuel pressure issue is what I am thinking.

Am I missing something more obvious?

Thanks for any suggestions. This started as cruise control issue but I suspect that is secondary and probably related to cold start up difficulty.

Thank you for your thoughts guys.
 
#15 ·
I get an occasional long crank, maybe 3 or 4 seconds. Not temperature dependent though. I'm replacing my EGR valve and solenoid to see if it makes any difference. If not, next part will be IAC. At 20 years of age, it's time for preventive maintenance anyway.

Other possibe causes:

www.focusfanatics.com/threads/long-crank.544786/
salemboysauto.com/marksalem/faqs/faq-25.htm
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Thank you. Thread is nice....suggests dealer visit is next step. I looked at manual and they suggest flooring pedal on second try after a 10 second first try. That seems like a large loophole for them to say..."it's normal sir"..lol.

I have another 2011 that starts right up in cold....only difference seems to be the start up revs to 2K then quickly backs down. The one with a problem revs to about 1800 cold then backs down. Maybe throttle issue? Who knows. Attached is the manual instructions:

When I resolve, I will post:

Thank you again,
 

Attachments

#17 ·
I think 2011 SE was pre-GDI. If true, the salemboysauto link mentions valve deposits. Copy and paste it manually, it has no leading www to provide an easy hyperlink. It says:

intake valve deposits. These deposits act like a sponge and soak up the fuel as it is sprayed on the back of the intake valve. So if the engine is warm or cold, this sponge has to be saturated and begin to drip before the engine will start and extended cranking is one of the classic symptoms

STP sells an intake valve cleaner kit. I've not tried it, but they say it's easy for one man to apply. But it's hard to discuss rationally around here, the High Pope and his True Church of groupies call me a heretic. I don't care. Just warning you what's next.
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
thank you and lol. Yes, pre gdi. Definitely worth considering valve deposits......could be....car has low miles (71k) and might never have really been run hot/truly warm over these past 10 years...I could see how that might encourage some buildup over time.

And btw... I'm protestant so I'm already in trouble with the Pope ....no fear from me there. ;)

Thanks again for the input.
 
#19 ·
'intake valve deposits. These deposits act like a sponge and soak up the fuel as it is sprayed on the back of the intake valve. So if the engine is warm or cold, this sponge has to be saturated and begin to drip before the engine will start and extended cranking is one of the classic symptoms'

Most of that is incompetently wildly wrong. You will 100% flood the engine before any deposits 'begin to drip' as the plugs will be dripping by then as well. Extended cranking is also a mark of flooded and why you then hold the throttle wide open, to kill the injectors. If engine is warm then all of that above is even more wrong. No wonder people have so much trouble with their stuff.

The deposits only become a problem on post '11 models, they are NOT an issue on earlier ones unless you mistreat the engine. I've got 3 of the earlier ones and the intakes are merely black colored with no buildup at all and over 200K miles each. To other, AGAIN with zero additives.
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
About this Discussion
27 Replies
4 Participants
Last post:
amc49
Focus Fanatics Forum
posts
5.8M
members
203K
Since
2003
A forum community dedicated to Ford Focus owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about SVT performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
General Technical Chat Ford Focus Builds & General Showroom MK3 Focus SVT Performance (2002-2004) MK1 Focus