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2010 Focus S 5sp Knock on Launch

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PeteB

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
We bought our Focus used with 66K miles and I noticed a bit of knock on
launching it, one guess was a rod bearing. It sounds a bit like a diesel.
Better fuel makes no difference.
Is there a best way to test for a failing rod bearing?

Thinking about dropping the pan to have a look. Metal in the sump would be a clue of course. We
have driven it 10K miles without much of any change in the knock. It was worse the first week we
had it. It mainly does it when launching if I let the RPMs drop to about 500, a bit more
gas and it doesn't do it - maybe just lugging it too much?
Sometimes it seems to do it more than others but it might just be inconsistent launching or the
grade in the road.
 
#2 ·
Is the check engine light on?

Have you changed the f***ing spark plugs yet?

Can I request that you stop making threads until you've done the work you KNOW you need to do on the car?
 
Discussion starter · #3 · (Edited)
Never has had a CEL. It is running fine, except for the knock, and I found the plugs now
it is a matter of time to put them in.
I'm also doing struts on another car at the moment.
The oil is also fresh just done about 1K miles ago, but it is 5-20 not 30.

I'll drop the sump when I do the oil change if it is worth doing and there is no easier
way to check the bearings.
 
#4 ·
If you think the existing plugs are junk, just change them already. It takes 20 minutes. If you're really getting "knock" then having correctly spec'd plugs should take care of it. Unless there's some kind of major defect, there's no reason to check the sump. Do the simple things first.

honestly, it's 20 minutes to do the plugs. Do it. DO IT DO IT DO IT.
 
Discussion starter · #5 · (Edited)
Thanks for the tips.
I'm taking care of 5 family member cars, minor things on some, more involved on others.
Just remembered that since, at the time I bought the plugs, we were not pushing the car so
I decided not to install them. I don't think I ever said that the current plugs were junk
just that they had probably never been changed.
Autolite 103 plugs are in: http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/10733841-post7.html

Not much difference.
 
#6 ·
Dropping the sump seems a bit of a stretch unless you think the mains are bad. With 66k i'd be surprised unless the previous owner beat on it. The pan doesn't have a gasket, so if you want to drop it you'll need a good silicone sealant and let is cure properly. Can you post a vid? It may help us help you diagnose the problem.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Thanks, good to know about the sump.
I think that when we bought the car it had an issue with stale gas, and
something knocking against the frame. Not sure but it might just be the
frame at this point and I'll check the engine mounts to see if that might
be the cause. It seems to be even better since I reset the ECU last week.

I'll be back with a video if it doesn't fix it.
 
#8 ·
PeteB said:
and
something knocking against the frame.
Click to expand...

Have you checked the condition of the passenger side engine mount? Mine blew out at 40K miles and it made some funny noises on hard acceleration. When the fluid ran out of the mount, the part that attached to the engine would hit the part that attached to the fender/frame of the car. Made a lot of noise.
 
#11 · (Edited)
PeteB said:
We bought our Focus used with 66K miles and I noticed a bit of knock on
launching it, one guess was a rod bearing. It sounds a bit like a diesel.
Better fuel makes no difference.
Is there a best way to test for a failing rod bearing?

Thinking about dropping the pan to have a look. Metal in the sump would be a clue of course. We
have driven it 10K miles without much of any change in the knock. It was worse the first week we
had it. It mainly does it when launching if I let the RPMs drop to about 500, a bit more
gas and it doesn't do it - maybe just lugging it too much?
Sometimes it seems to do it more than others but it might just be inconsistent launching or the
grade in the road.
Click to expand...
GOing to edit for more clarity, see if you see same thing...

My 2010 does this if you release the clutch at idle, AND at which time the engine goes low rpm and doesn't stall, does the diesel sound until it recovers back to 900rpms, as far as I notice.

I do NOT think it is what you think it is, not some issue... and yeah I laugh to my self, sounds like mom's TDI for just a second. I just don't think it is an issue of any "problems" other than how we drive sometimes. Usually happens to me waiting in McDonald's drive through Cue, trying to creep forward without slipping clutch a bunch. if I don't let RPMs dive no sound, so sound seems to me, being the engine being really nice to the driver and trying to recover what should been a stall. Love the torqy little SE 2 door I have, mine still recovers fast, and yes I replaced all the plugs back at 155k with some more good platinum Autolites. Still does it, sometimes I think, my old Mazda would have just stalled, and this engine keeps trying...

it has done it since I bought it with 50k, and now has 190k

I'll watch to see if others say I am wrong.
 
Discussion starter · #12 · (Edited)
Thanks for the tips, Yes it is as you describe, does yours also make a groan sound?
I got very used to the Mazda V6 in our Probe GT and then a Mazda 626.
Yes, I had exactly the same theory as what you are saying but not sure, good
to have your input. My neighbor says your just not giving it enough gas.
Oh! it could be caused somewhat by the poor throttle response - I had not
thought of that previously.

I've also driven many 4 cyl Alfa's, a 944 Porsche and never anything like this.

I'm ordering the engine mount today because I think we have a combination
of problems. Partly something hitting the frame.

Good to know that yours also sounds like a diesel, never had this happen before.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Since we are comparing notes, does your temp run about 1/16" below 12
o'clock hot, stopped, and perhaps another 1/16" lower at speed with more
air flow. This suggests to me an open (or partially) thermostat but the
part is expensive so I thought I'd ask.
 
Discussion starter · #17 · (Edited)
Only using OEM for the part and it costs more, and I don't want to spend the time
changing it if this is normal.

Interesting that I found this thread by you that asks almost the same question,
did you get an answer, does your car still do it?
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/general-technical-chat/722810-overcooling-issue.html

If you know the answer as to if it is normal it would help with the issue here if you would tell me.
You never shared your findings in your own thread.

You asked in post #2 of that thread: "To be clear, I've considered the thermostat, but if it were stuck open,
I don't understand why the temp goes back up when the car is sitting still with the engine still running."
The temp goes back up because there is no forced airflow through the radiator and the heat transfer
is significantly reduced. But you also probably find that it takes a long time to warm up because all of
the coolant water has to be heated.
 
Discussion starter · #19 · (Edited)
#20 ·
PeteB said:
Since we are comparing notes, does your temp run about 1/16" below 12
o'clock hot, stopped, and perhaps another 1/16" lower at speed with more
air flow. This suggests to me an open (or partially) thermostat but the
part is expensive so I thought I'd ask.
Click to expand...
I have noticed my car doing that. You may be really overthinking it. You're car seems to be running at a normal temp. I wouldn't worry about it unless the car was overheating.
 
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PeteB
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