2012 focus horn not working

h4rdw1r3d · May 18, 2014

bluehatch14 said:
I just discovered today that my horn has stopped working on my 2012 hatch. I went ahead and checked my fuse which was fine. Even replaced it with another 15 amp fuse and still did not solve the problem.

I was Googling around for an answer for the same thing since I can't find my manual when I stumbled upon this forum. In case someone else comes here looking for an answer, the horn is not a 15 amp fuse. It's the R2 micro relay switch located in the engine compartment fuse box. I found it after I found this site:

http://www.focusplanet.com/downloads/focusmanuals/2012/2012_focus_owner_guidemanual.pdf

Page 305-307 to be exact. No tools required (as far as I know). Just pull it straight up and out. Will take some force.

edubb · Nov 17, 2014

ford focus titanium 2012

yes i have a problem with my ford focus 2012 titanium horn also,before i use to mash my key to lock the door twice and the second clique always beep,and now it just lights up with no sound,went like that for a few days and then it worked again,and just a few days ago it didn't work again,and i looked at the fuse and it was ok,but the horn did not work,i just bought this car in december 2012 brand new,next month it will be 2 yrs. old.

FordService · Nov 17, 2014

edubb said:
yes i have a problem with my ford focus 2012 titanium horn also,before i use to mash my key to lock the door twice and the second clique always beep,and now it just lights up with no sound,went like that for a few days and then it worked again,and just a few days ago it didn't work again,and i looked at the fuse and it was ok,but the horn did not work,i just bought this car in december 2012 brand new,next month it will be 2 yrs. old.

Welcome tot he forum!

Have you spoken to your dealer on this? Please let me know, along with your mileage.

Meagan

jwkorkow · Dec 1, 2014

Horn issues

First.. check the horn fuse under the hood (see owner's manual for fuse location).. Second, check the horn connection--- the ground is unlikely, but possible, rather, on the front passenger side of the car, from the top, look down below the headlight, and beside the radiator, and you will see the horn assembly... The connection is at the bottom of the horn--- mine looked fine, but still did not work, even though I could hear the relay click when I hit the horn button in the car--- I placed a crowbar under the connector and pulled up slightly to reseat it. This was indeed the issue and the horn works again. If you don't hear the relay click when you hit the horn (or panic) button, try getting it from the dealer and replacing it (under five bucks), and the relay is also in the fuse box under the hood (beside the battery)... You will need the code on the relay as it is not in the system yet, as of November 2014... Good luck!

ChiRhedd · Mar 27, 2015

h4rdw1r3d said:
I was Googling around for an answer for the same thing since I can't find my manual when I stumbled upon this forum. In case someone else comes here looking for an answer, the horn is not a 15 amp fuse. It's the R2 micro relay switch located in the engine compartment fuse box. I found it after I found this site:

http://www.focusplanet.com/downloads/focusmanuals/2012/2012_focus_owner_guidemanual.pdf

Page 305-307 to be exact. No tools required (as far as I know). Just pull it straight up and out. Will take some force.

bluehatch, thank you SOOOO much! I wanted to ball this car up and throw it back at CarMax with my frustration!

amc49 · Mar 28, 2015

Just so you know, the horn ALWAYS has a fuse, they use pretty big power to do what they do. The micro relay has a fuse further up from it in the circuit. Probably even two, one for the coil and one for the load.

Most horn issues are down at the horn location itself from the low location and the water that usually gets to them to leak inside or at the wire connection to corrode the connection there. I generally have always been able to pull bad horns back to good by taking them apart and clean up and they then work for years after. They are usually rivetted together and you must drill out rivets to then use screws. Pretty funny about the dealer 'cleaning the contacts' as mentioned higher up in the thread. They can adjust but generally NOT clean contacts as they are rivetted like said, or edge roll/pressed cover one to the other, you can't get inside them (I can those too).

Can't imagine some one wanting to ball a car up over such a simple issue, it's easily fixed..........gonna be much worse when serious things start going wrong.

Fios Tech · Sep 24, 2015

2013 Focus horn stop working

I checked under the hood and the relay was clicking and thus the fuse was good..so I knew issue was at horn connection or a bad horn. Pulled car up on my ramps and removed the black plastic cover underneath the frontend , few torx head screws and some snap in pins have to be removed, this allows access to the horn on passenger side. Pulled off the connecting plug from the horn and noticed corrosion in the connector end and corrosion on the pins of the horn. Sprayed contact cleaner on the connector then cleaned pins with tiny wire brush, you can use small screwdriver to scrape these pins or other thin sharp device. Reconnect plug and voila...horn is back on. This will save you a trip to dealer, and changed oil while I was under car...Hope this helps

Trig242 · Feb 22, 2017

Fios Tech said:
I checked under the hood and the relay was clicking and thus the fuse was good..so I knew issue was at horn connection or a bad horn. Pulled car up on my ramps and removed the black plastic cover underneath the frontend , few torx head screws and some snap in pins have to be removed, this allows access to the horn on passenger side. Pulled off the connecting plug from the horn and noticed corrosion in the connector end and corrosion on the pins of the horn. Sprayed contact cleaner on the connector then cleaned pins with tiny wire brush, you can use small screwdriver to scrape these pins or other thin sharp device. Reconnect plug and voila...horn is back on. This will save you a trip to dealer, and changed oil while I was under car...Hope this helps

Thanks for the info. I'm about to do the same exact procedure on my 2012 SEL. A while back it was in for service and they noted the corrosion, and it has since become an intermittent problem again. Just a couple of questions, as this will be the first time I tackle this particular job.

1. You removed the "skid plate" under the front of the car, not the wheel well cover, correct? Torx T30 size?

2. Any issue if I use a little RTV [or similar grease, recommendations always welcome] on the connection to help prevent future corrosion?

3. Please confirm the location of the horn, for some reason I always thought it was on the driver's side.

Thanks so much for your info and insight.

Craig M.

ArcticMynx · Feb 22, 2017

Trig242 said:
Thanks for the info. I'm about to do the same exact procedure on my 2012 SEL. A while back it was in for service and they noted the corrosion, and it has since become an intermittent problem again. Just a couple of questions, as this will be the first time I tackle this particular job.

2. Any issue if I use a little RTV [or similar grease, recommendations always welcome] on the connection to help prevent future corrosion?

Craig M.

Dielectric Grease is the best for the connector [drinking]
PLEASE for the love of god don't use RTV
RTV is Silicone its used in the automotove field as a cheap gasket makers, and more expensive when the stuff falls into the engine or leaks like a siv [80?]

Trig242 · Feb 22, 2017

ArcticMynx said:
Dielectric Grease is the best for the connector [drinking]
PLEASE for the love of god don't use RTV
RTV is Silicone its used in the automotove field as a cheap gasket makers, and more expensive when the stuff falls into the engine or leaks like a siv [80?]

Thanks for the tip! Dielectric grease it is

grasshopper · Aug 13, 2017

Fuses and a larger problem.

I checked the fuses and cleaned them off and after that the horn worked and so did the FOB, give a BEEP, so that's all good now.
However, I have a much larger problem than that, I have the 2013 Model and the jerking coming from the transmission is unreal. I am about to write Ford to see if there is a 'fix' in for this. I know there is a class action law suit and I have registered in it. I have 53,000 km on the vehicle and i like the car itself but this is not good, to be driving a car that is not operating as it should be.

peterherrm · Sep 5, 2017

My horn just went on me also after it failing intermittently for a couple of months. Guess I'll check the fuses also thanks for the info. And yeah I have the same transmission jerking going on also. I'm part of the "Mass Action" suite out of Michigan. Supposedly is supposed to be better than the class action suit. They handle each case individually. It's a shame, because I have 90K miles on mine, and I have had no problems with it, except for the crappy transmission.

amcc · Feb 5, 2020

grasshopper said:
Fuses and a larger problem.

I checked the fuses and cleaned them off and after that the horn worked and so did the FOB, give a BEEP, so that's all good now.
However, I have a much larger problem than that, I have the 2013 Model and the jerking coming from the transmission is unreal. I am about to write Ford to see if there is a 'fix' in for this. I know there is a class action law suit and I have registered in it. I have 53,000 km on the vehicle and i like the car itself but this is not good, to be driving a car that is not operating as it should be.

Can you send me more information regarding the suit? I have a 2012 that I had the clutch replaced at 150km and am already ready for another one. TIA

2012 focus horn not working

h4rdw1r3d

edubb

FordService

jwkorkow

ChiRhedd

amc49

Fios Tech

Trig242

ArcticMynx

Trig242

grasshopper

peterherrm

amcc

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