hey guys, I got my car aligned yesterday and the guys, told me that my car doesnt need camber bolts and also they said that I have them welded on and they couldnt install the bolts because they dont want to be liable for anything because they dont have a welder..... anyway I have the Eibach Sportline suspension and yah... these are what they gave me.... any alignment experts know whats up? thanks!!!
NO camber bolts needed?!
magicleo2120
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hey guys, I got my car aligned yesterday and the guys, told me that my car doesnt need camber bolts and also they said that I have them welded on and they couldnt install the bolts because they dont want to be liable for anything because they dont have a welder..... anyway I have the Eibach Sportline suspension and yah... these are what they gave me.... any alignment experts know whats up? thanks!!!
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Do you have the front camber kit? I just heard that often if you have a 2 inch or lower drop, on the front you need the front kit.
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no i have nothing, I just have the suspesion on and the alignment no bolts or camber kits.
That looks like you could still dial the rear camber back a little bit. -2 degrees is enough to cause noticeable camber wear after thousands of miles. This is why it helps to know what specs you'd like to have your car at when you bring it in. Just letting them put it in Ford spec is very ambiguous as the range is very large.
Also, I've never seen toe measured in degrees, but I would imagine you would want it closer to zero, even though it is 'within spec.' This is an example of of how wide the range of Ford spec is.
And yes, the OEM rear crash bolts are tack welded in. It takes a grinder about 10 seconds to get the tacks down so you can remove them and install the new ones.
http://www.teamfocus.us/camberboltsinstall.htm
Also, I've never seen toe measured in degrees, but I would imagine you would want it closer to zero, even though it is 'within spec.' This is an example of of how wide the range of Ford spec is.
And yes, the OEM rear crash bolts are tack welded in. It takes a grinder about 10 seconds to get the tacks down so you can remove them and install the new ones.
http://www.teamfocus.us/camberboltsinstall.htm
I installed my H&R coilovers back in Octoberish. After installing them I went around to every auto mechanic shop in my area including 2 ford dealerships and NO one will align my car. They claim that its "too low" and the ramps are at too steep of an angle to get my car on there without ripping off the front bumper. I have the rear camber bolts but I havent installed them yet. because I dont want to put them on and screw up my alignment even more. Im not going to just Eye it up. Any suggestions out there on how to get my low rider back into alignment? =P
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well if they're coilovers can't you dial them up???
btw i had the same prob but im on Sportlines so there were a few places where they could still get me aligned...
i didn't need the camber bolts either i dont know what the measurements were, but i know i didn't need them.....
enjoy your lowered ride....
btw i had the same prob but im on Sportlines so there were a few places where they could still get me aligned...
i didn't need the camber bolts either i dont know what the measurements were, but i know i didn't need them.....
enjoy your lowered ride....
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do you have to weld on the new ones...if so then ill prolly get my frens dad to do it in the future as i already got an RA# for my camber bolts from TR.comthefrush said:
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sucks cuz i went to pepboys, coastline tires, sears, tire depot and all these places and no one wanted to mess with my car? i got so fed up i went to this low budget place down the street where they did my alignment and they were really honest too. nice to know that i can run down the street and have my car aligned now.
Johnny
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I got mine aligned at a big o tires and they didnt tell me i needed rear camber kit or anything...Unless they just wanted to get me outta there, lol. but it looks fine to me...
When I first tried to get my car aligned after putting the Cup Kit on, they too told me I didn't need the rear camber bolts, when in actuality I did. They don't care about tire wear, they care about spec. As long as it is within spec, that's all that matters, unfortunately, 'spec' allows for over -2 degrees of negative camber, which is enough to eat your tires.
Yeah the front is fine, especially since the toe is zero, toe is the biggest contributor to adverse tire wear. I would reccomend trying to find a shop that specializes in custom alignments for modified cars. There are shops around here that don't deal with factory spec but require you to know what specs you want the car adjusted to. Regular wheel/tire/alignment shops might do this too, but they won't be as flexible.
The rear camber settings, while within spec, will result in inside edge wear to the rear tires. You need to get it down to -1.3 to -1.6 degrees to prevent/minimize wear. You'll probably need rear camber bolts to do that. The camber bolts (nuts) do not get welded in unlike the stock upper control arm bolts/nuts which are. The nut on the upper arm must be removed. A dremel with a cut off wheel and a metal chisel will make quick work of the spot welds that hold it on. They were a tad sloppy on the front camber. One to two tenths difference is reasonable. Other than that its looks like they got the side to side settings fairly even on both the front and rear.
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