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karmakc

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I'm on a road trip and embarrassingly the trunk is no longer releasing. This is the first time I've filled the car up with luggage - and to the brim...

I pressed the trunk release from inside and the trunk makes the sound that something is opening but it isn't.

Then, when I click the remote twice, still isn't opening. After a half hour, while driving, the trunk released open.

So back on the road again, just reached the hotel and again trunk release made the unclicking sound - and remote isn't popping it open.

Any help would be much appreciated!


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#2 ·
Moved to the MkIII section for the most looks the quickest. Same body, more owners to comment.

All I can offer is to play with it tension wise, as by pushing down to let the latch release easier when triggering it.

Key lock would be nice.....
 
#4 ·
If the stuff inside is pushing UP, then the release cannot work.
Try pushing DOWN on the outside of the trunk while pressing the 'release' button. It may release.
If it works. I sincerely suggest loading the trunk so it cannot happen again.
Next time it might not work!
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Elizabeth said:
If the stuff inside is pushing UP, then the release cannot work.
Try pushing DOWN on the outside of the trunk while pressing the 'release' button. It may release.
If it works. I sincerely suggest loading the trunk so it cannot happen again.
Next time it might not work!
Click to expand...
Yep, pushing down then up helped but what the hell kind of trunk did Ford design omg?! Never, ever had such a problem with the MK1 also, there is no key open jeez!

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Discussion starter · #7 ·
Elizabeth said:
If the stuff inside is pushing UP, then the release cannot work.
Try pushing DOWN on the outside of the trunk while pressing the 'release' button. It may release.
If it works. I sincerely suggest loading the trunk so it cannot happen again.
Next time it might not work!
Click to expand...
Also, I left the hatch cover at home to accommodate more luggage and noted that on one end, the plastic pivot came off the lid. Any idea how to pry the pivot open so I can reattach it to the hatch cover and install...Wtf Ford!?

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#8 ·
(Agree) Those pivot gizmos suck.
Anyway, the design on my 2012 SE was different than on my 2014 ST
The 2012 had a 'plain black lump with a button' that went into a 'key' slot on the side of the frame.
The 2014 has a 'two part gizmo' where the button on the lid snaps on a part left on the frame. The part left on the frame has the same key slot attachment, and can be easily lost of accidentally removed.
My mistake first time I tried the 2014 was to lose the damn part which stayed on the frame. (thinking it was like the 2012 design.) I found one of the two under the spare. The other??? eaten by the ghost of Christmas past?

I had to buy another one for $14. ($14 for a ten cent part)

I have no idea if you have the earlier 'one part' or the later 'two part' connection.

If the blob came off the cord, you just have to buy a new cord assy. (the $14 thing)
 
#9 ·
Unlike the sedan which has springs and a torsion bar to pop the deck lid open when you press the trunk release on a sedan, the hatch release only unlocks and partially unlatches the hatchback and does not cause it to fully open.

To fully open the hatchback one must lift the hatch up enough for the gas assist struts to be able to hold the door open.

If there is too much pressure against the hatch which is pushing on the latch then it will not release by design which is to prevent your cargo from opening the hatch and falling out while driving. To over come this push down while releasing the latch and then re-pack to avoid putting too much pressure on the hatch.
 
#10 ·
Three things:

There is a TSB (or recall?) concerning the hatch release but IIRC I think it was while driving.

Other thing could the the hatch alignment...if it's a little bit off the lock will have problem to release.

Like others said.. cargo area overfilled could conflict with the hatch release too. Clear things up and re-test.
 
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#11 ·
The similar way to see if it is because of your luggage or there is an actual problem is try opening the tailgate with nothing in it and if it doesn't open, than you know to start checking what other people have suggested
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Thanks for all your replies!

The pushing down then pulling up trick worked.

I should add that in the past, the rear trunk release from the key fob hasn't opened at times...other times it opens without issue.


I really think it came down to an overpacking problem.

That said and now that I have everyone's attention - I'd like to bring up another WTF moment with the trunk area.

The hatch / trunk area cover component has 4 attachment points to the trunk.

2 are the "swing arms" to open the lid. (one of the pieces in the door was luckily discovered in the luggage - road trip still on atm)

The other two are the pivot points within the hatch. I noted that while removing the hatch lid, the plastic bracket attached to the lid came off too! Probably an unrelated issue BUT 3 issues with the trunk area in less than 3 days is fishy :(

How do I reattach the pivot point plastic bracket? I tried to pinch the bracket with my fingers and used a screw driver to pry open the bracket. I made some (but not enough) progress. Any thoughts on how to make the bracket awning wide enough to accept the lid's thickness and thus reattach without further worry.

Basically put, I'm pretty pissed at the experience with the trunk - I've had plenty of hatchbacks in my life, but this is the first time I've ever had 3 issues with the trunk area in the space of 3 days :)

Thanks for reading my rant!
 
#13 · (Edited)
If you continue having a problem without the cargo area being packed (over packed like you think) your bump stops are probably out too far causing too much tension. Adjust those. It doesn't have anything to do with the way Ford designed it as you stated. Most (all?) trunks/hatches have adjustable bump stops. When I first got my 2012 sedan I would get a trunk open warning because the bump stops were out too far not allowing it to fully latch if I didn't slam it shut.
 
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#14 ·
karmakc said:
How do I reattach the pivot point plastic bracket? I tried to pinch the bracket with my fingers and used a screw driver to pry open the bracket. I made some (but not enough) progress. Any thoughts on how to make the bracket awning wide enough to accept the lid's thickness and thus reattach without further worry.
Click to expand...
If you are bending ANYTHING.. that is wrong. I would not bend it at all. If you are trying to bend or 'pry open' ANYTHING you are doing it wrong!
The parcel shelf strings have ends with either two parts or one
The one piece has a ball which fits into a key shaped hole (up on the side of the hatch frame) and slot, into hole, down slot to stay.
The two piece has a small cup, and a separate ball/pin piece. The ball is pointed out, the pin goes in the keyhole same way, no forcing anything.
(the pin has a flat bottom to lock into the keyhole shape opening)
The ball is what the cup on string sticks onto.
The small part is the one easily lost.

Is your string intact, and still stuck on the parcel shelf? And DO you have the two piece type ends. or the one piece sort?
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Elizabeth said:
If you are bending ANYTHING.. that is wrong. I would not bend it at all. If you are trying to bend or 'pry open' ANYTHING you are doing it wrong!
The parcel shelf strings have ends with either two parts or one
The one piece has a ball which fits into a key shaped hole (up on the side of the hatch frame) and slot, into hole, down slot to stay.
The two piece has a small cup, and a separate ball/pin piece. The ball is pointed out, the pin goes in the keyhole same way, no forcing anything.
(the pin has a flat bottom to lock into the keyhole shape opening)
The ball is what the cup on string sticks onto.
The small part is the one easily lost.

Is your string intact, and still stuck on the parcel shelf? And DO you have the two piece type ends. or the one piece sort?
Click to expand...
I think you've got the wrong part in mind.

I was referring to the portion of the plastic that acts like a hinge -- located right behind the rear seats and is the attachment point between the plastic outcrop and the lid.

Any help opening that plastic pivot would be appreciated. I'll post a picture tomorrow if it helps!
 
Discussion starter · #16 · (Edited)
Elizabeth said:
If you are bending ANYTHING.. that is wrong. I would not bend it at all. If you are trying to bend or 'pry open' ANYTHING you are doing it wrong!
The parcel shelf strings have ends with either two parts or one
The one piece has a ball which fits into a key shaped hole (up on the side of the hatch frame) and slot, into hole, down slot to stay.
The two piece has a small cup, and a separate ball/pin piece. The ball is pointed out, the pin goes in the keyhole same way, no forcing anything.
(the pin has a flat bottom to lock into the keyhole shape opening)
The ball is what the cup on string sticks onto.
The small part is the one easily lost.

Is your string intact, and still stuck on the parcel shelf? And DO you have the two piece type ends. or the one piece sort?
Click to expand...
BetaDnB said:
If you continue having a problem without the cargo area being packed (over packed like you think) your bump stops are probably out too far causing too much tension. Adjust those. It doesn't have anything to do with the way Ford designed it as you stated. Most (all?) trunks/hatches have adjustable bump stops. When I first got my 2012 sedan I would get a trunk open warning because the bump stops were out too far not allowing it to fully latch if I didn't slam it shut.
Click to expand...
SlowhiteJr said:
The similar way to see if it is because of your luggage or there is an actual problem is try opening the tailgate with nothing in it and if it doesn't open, than you know to start checking what other people have suggested
Click to expand...
I found another thread with the 2nd part of the problem: Hatch Cover Clamp

I'm having a really hard time opening the clamp enough to reattach it to the lid.

Any thoughts/help would be much appreciated!
 
#17 ·
I've got trunk problems also with my 2015 Mk III Focus. The trunk opens only with remote control double press, unless it happens to open by itself, usually when car movement stops. Once I heard seven consecutive open sounds in three seconds when I was slowly reversing on my home yard. Thankfully locking the doors keeps it shut -- so far.

Going to take it to the dealership for warranty repair one of these coming days ...
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
karmakc said:
I found another thread with the 2nd part of the problem: Hatch Cover Clamp

I'm having a really hard time opening the clamp enough to reattach it to the lid.

Any thoughts/help would be much appreciated!
Click to expand...
So I figured it out. They are clamps and they won't break. I used an extra bit of leverage, 2 screw drivers - one to keep the gap open on the one side. The other screwdriver was inserted into the other side and twisted open.

That plastic can take some abuse! I was really worried about snapping it but it took about all the strength I had to pry it open (albeit, carefully).
 
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