Hi. This is my first post here so I apologize if this is the wrong place. Anyway, a few months ago I took a short trip and my alternator failed so I replaced it. But ever since then I can't accelerate as fast as I use to. I use to be able to do 0-60 in about 8 seconds I think but now it's a little over 16 seconds. I have changed the spark plugs and the fuel filter already. BTW I just recently found that if, while at low rpm, I press the throttle all the way while holding the brakes enough not to accelerate for about 5 seconds and release them I can get most/all of the power back. But once I come off the gas and press it again I'm back to having no power again.
Problem accelerating
Sirawesomeness
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It feels like at higher rpm it is hitting a wall. I did clean the plugs up. Also not getting any codes
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If there was any confusion, when I hold the brakes and throttle I was already rolling. Then I released the brakes and there would be a surge of power until I release the throttle. The same thing can be achieved by accelerating in a taller gear if I start below 3000 rpm.
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Also I forgot to mention. When I changed the alternator the negative wire touched the exhaust manifold while it was running.
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50,838 Posts
There's no negative wire at the alternator, and what was it doing running with alternator wiring not hooked up?
Need to explain this a bit more for any guesses as to possible damage, remember that one thing NEVER to do is unhook the battery while the car is running - major damage MAY happen.
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Oh. I thought it was negative. If I remember correctly, the wire was loose or something. And I was trying to put it back on
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One thing that should be checked is the tumble flap operation.
When turned off you can see the joint for the lever that operates them sticking up just behind the throttle body (TB), it goes down to be hard to see normally once the car is started.
If you rev the engine by hand so you can watch it, it should pop back up at a fairly low RPM. Down for low RPM operation, Up once it starts revving.
Normal failure of that is to the open position for not closing by vacuum control when the engine is started. IF one happened to fail to STAY closed (lever down) the engine would be choked off at higher RPM.
Plates partially close intake runners at low RPM, letting faster air flow by the injectors from their open section for the "tumble" effect to mix the fuel & air. They need to open at higher RPM for full intake air flow.
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Ok. I'll check that when I get the chance
That wire could well be the trouble maker. As sailor said, a lot can go wrong with any modern vehicle if the battery is not hooked in when engine is running. Any electronic component could be affected and the result is likely to be the kind of erratic issues that you're experiencing.
The way I see it, you need to identify that wire first and make sure that you've put it back in the right place. Try also to reset the PCM by removing the negative battery cable for 15 mins with engine and ignition off. Perform an OBD scan once reconnected and you should read DTC P1000. The code will clear by itself once the adaptive values are relearned by the PCM after a few journeys. Do a rescan to confirm this. And hopefully we can at least have some idea that the PCM is working as it should.
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I have tried disconnecting the battery before for a few hours and nothing happened. But I didn't scan it afterwards.
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Big wire is the power one, sometimes fused (Where & how is version dependent) power wire to the battery.
Something NOT to touch when running, can't imagine trying to get to that on a running engine myself.
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I just pushed this down manually with the car off. Should it pop back up quickly or slowly
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Fairly quickly, but not like it has no resistance at all.
You're moving a vacuum actuator that's hidden lower down, the air has to move to let it change positions. Might hear that when you move it, a bit of a hissing noise.
Slow/doesn't want to move isn't right either, response is pretty quick.
Throttle moves instantly by comparison, no resistance there and it snaps back by it's spring.
You're moving a vacuum actuator that's hidden lower down, the air has to move to let it change positions. Might hear that when you move it, a bit of a hissing noise.
Slow/doesn't want to move isn't right either, response is pretty quick.
Throttle moves instantly by comparison, no resistance there and it snaps back by it's spring.
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OK. I'll do that tomorrow. Everyone is asleep and I don't have a muffler
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So I just tested this. It doesn't come up at all. How much throttle do I need to make it rise up?
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You sir are a hero. I disconnected the vacuum line to the flaps and now it is working again. It feels so fast now. I've been dealing with this for months
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Cross fingers, assume it's reconnected now.
May have had a blockage/leak that you happened to fix just by moving things.
Odd issue, haven't seen it reported before, but thought of it as one of those 'dumb' simple things that could actually cause the symptoms.
May have had a blockage/leak that you happened to fix just by moving things.
Odd issue, haven't seen it reported before, but thought of it as one of those 'dumb' simple things that could actually cause the symptoms.
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I haven't reconnected it. I've been driving with the flaps open. Reconnecting cause the problem again.
Only side effects are check engine light and rough idle due to vacuum leak. I'm probably just going to plug it up.
Only side effects are check engine light and rough idle due to vacuum leak. I'm probably just going to plug it up.
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Ah, OK.
It's not a big loss in low RPM performance, some eliminated them entirely in the theory that it helps at high RPM.
Only issue is if the CEL is a problem in your area for inspection - and that you need to check codes to see if a fresh Code shows up.
I need to get around to replacing my own control solenoid for them, it gave up and not in a hurry to fix it. (normally fails closed, so flaps stay open)
It's not a big loss in low RPM performance, some eliminated them entirely in the theory that it helps at high RPM.
Only issue is if the CEL is a problem in your area for inspection - and that you need to check codes to see if a fresh Code shows up.
I need to get around to replacing my own control solenoid for them, it gave up and not in a hurry to fix it. (normally fails closed, so flaps stay open)
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