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tlrtucker

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
SPI Full Rebuild, now have coolant in the cylinder

EDIT: same old thread, just deleted the "bad head from Headsonly.com" from the title and it doesn't apply - the head was fine.

I'm back with another dropped valve seat rebuild. A couple of months ago I bought an SPI that had previously dropped a valve but had a shady repair. Ended up replacing that cylinder head with one from headsonly.com and it was great - no real issues. Had about $1000 into, sold it for $1800. Easy money.

After seeing how easy that one was, I picked up another SPI that had dropped a seat for $500. The car is in excellent shape (minus the motor) so I didn't have a problem going into it knowing the possibility of having to rebuild the motor.

As expected, I pulled the head and the #3 piston had shattered and bent the rod:


Because the previous owner drove the car home after the valve seat had dropped, the cylinder wall was gouged up pretty good (didn't take a picture of it). I didn't feel comfortable putting it back together like that, so I pulled the block and sent it to the machine shop. $260 later I got the block back, resleeved, boiled out, magnifluxed and ready to go.

Got it all rebuilt, new pistons, rings and bearings for another ~$300 or so (did the rebuild myself), fired it up and it purred like a kitten.....for about 4-5 minutes. Once the thermostat opened up and coolant started circulating it started sputtering and water started spitting out the exhaust. Not wanting to risk any damage I shut it off and could hear water/coolant dripping and sizzling inside the exhaust up by the exhaust manifold.

Removed the exhaust manifold to confirm my suspicions and see this:


Coolant is getting into the exhaust through the #3 exhaust port. Unfortunately, I didn't pull the plug at this point to see if it was wet. Instead, I pulled the head assuming the EngineTech head gasket was junk (had to replace the last enginetech hg that I used so I assumed they were junk) and replaced it with a Felpro, along with new Felpro head bolts.

Got it all buttoned up, fired it up and.....same exact problem. I examined the head pretty closely and couldn't see any obvious cracks or other problems. Both new head gaskets looked fine, no issues.

Spoke with a guy at headsonly and he was little help other than to say "ship it to us and we'll check it out."

This is the first issue I'm aware of with Headsonly.com heads. Probably a dozen or so off this site, one previous I bought and another a buddy of mine bought.

BOTH TIMES this happened, there was no smoke at all, which I thought was a little strange. I believe that means the coolant isn't actually getting into the combustion chamber, rather getting into the exhaust port through a small crack or something...I don't know, maybe that's b.s.

That's where I am at this point. Debating on whether I should send the head back to headsonly or take it to my local shop. I know they're under warranty with headsonly but I don't really have 3-4 weeks to wait around for it.


To clarify - I do NOT mean this as a complaint thread against headsonly. They have a great reputation and I understand that sh!t happens and sometimes parts are bad. I just wanted to post this in case someone else has the same issue for some help.
 
Have you checked the hose connections to the intake manifold????

The SPI intake includes a water jacket, so there are coolant hoses as well as vacuum hoses that attach to it.

Get a pair wrong, and you put coolant right into the engine. How well filled the cooling system was after reassembly could delay the introduction of coolant. Some see it filling a cylinder right away, others get the worse issue of just a little in - enough to bend a rod if it fires before that fluid stops cranking by the starter. Those are the extremes, yours may have fallen between them.
 
If they are not pressure checking the water passages in 100% of the heads they can easily miss a crack in them and impacts like those pistons do when they start crunching all those valve seat pieces against the head often make plenty of cracks. Some hide so well to the eye you can't believe it.

If what we see is right then your sleeved cylinder was NOT #3, so not likely that. Assuming they did deck the block after the liner install.

The wrong hose install like said can put it to you as well.

Enough water and there is no steam, the entire combustion is wetted out to not happen.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Have you checked the hose connections to the intake manifold????
I triple checked, scoured the internet for pictures and diagrams, and even checked 4 different Focus' at the junkyard to verify (I know I shouldn't rely on junkyards for things like this, but if all 4 verified what I was seeing online, that works for me). I had everything connected properly. Thanks for the input.

If they are not pressure checking the water passages in 100% of the heads they can easily miss a crack in them and impacts like those pistons do when they start crunching all those valve seat pieces against the head often make plenty of cracks. Some hide so well to the eye you can't believe it.

If what we see is right then your sleeved cylinder was NOT #3, so not likely that. Assuming they did deck the block after the liner install.
That's a great point - I ASSUME the shop I took the head to pressure checked the water passages as well (I obviously don't know the exact procedure), but I didn't specifically ask that. I get that headsonly could have missed something like this, but wouldn't the machine shop still find the crack?

Also - it might have been the #2 cylinder - I don't remember the firing order, it was the third from the left that they sleeved.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
UPDATE:

Last week I called Headsonly again and this time I was transferred to a manager (last time I spoke with a guy from the machine shop) and half way through my explanation he politely cut me off and said they'd get another head in the mail that morning. I wish they would've said that last week, but good news either way.

Hopefully it will be at the door when I get home today and I'll be able to try running it again this evening.

Here's to hoping!!
 
Nice! That's impressive CS!
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Got everything back together, fired it up and...same damn problem. My last ditch effort is to try replacing the intake - maybe there's a crack in there somewhere. Nothing else makes sense. I'll post up more this weekend...
 
Hahah you're kidding! ;)
 
Choice words I'm sure.

Too bad these don't have a std. rad cap, I'd try pressurizing the system with the intake pulled back and look for coolant from it.

Swap intakes for sure if a spare is on hand, figuring any way to pressure test the suspect one would be nice.
 
I'd find it hard to believe intake is leaking, but not impossible, I'd be much more inclined to look at the block and the work done on it. Not out of the realm of the impossible for the initial damage to have cracked the cylinder wall next to the bad one either.

Why and how these can jump up to bite the crap out of you, some are easy to fix and some.........................well........................so many people insist on driving the cars the next 2 miles or so until utterly destroyed.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Well...as predicted, swapping out the intake didn't fix anything (I was sure it wouldn't, but gave it a shot anyway). Coolant is still getting into the combustion chamber somehow. The only thing that remotely makes sense is that there is a crack in the block, but even that baffles me. The block was machined, pressure tested and magnafluxed by the machine shop and no cracks were found. Plus, if there were a crack in the block coolant would be mixing with the oil, which isn't happening. It's just sending coolant into the intake or the head somewhere. I can see it leaking from between the head and the intake manifold, but cant figure out how it's getting there.

I'm at my wits end with this thing. My choices now are to admit defeat and take it to a shop and pay way to much for someone else to try and fix it, or sell it off as is and take a loss on it and move on. Either way, I'm done this POS...
 
Screw on adapter for a cooling system pressure tester would be worth it, I'd even leave the intake hooked up but detached from the engine.
 
The pressure can also force it out so you can see it, not just see a pressure drop to prove a leak.

If it was dripping just from being filled you'd see it already.
 
Well, then detach the intake from the from the head without detaching any hoses and you can see where the coolant is coming from better.

No tester required if it's leaking before pressurized.

If you see it dripping from the intake, your source is proven right there. Could still be an intake issue even once swapped (I don't even trust NEW parts) or from the hose mix up we thought was double checked.

You can peek into the head then as well, if it's dripping out of the exh/ port.


The one thing that's troubling, is that it shouldn't be able to drip out from between them if the intake gasket was sealed right. DO look close for the source - mirror if needed - to see where it comes from before changing anything.
 
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