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Discussion Starter #1
As the title says, the Fob only unlocks the passenger side.
Neither side locks or unlocks remotely or with the interior switches.

What am I looking at? Where can I find a wiring diagram?

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

[cheers]
 

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Old Phart
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Moved to General Tech Chat where you can find more info..

Same as any MkI Focus for things like that, and this isn't a "mod".

If the driver's side opens with the fob as mentioned, did you try a double click of the fob to open both?

(Just to ask the dumb question first)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Moved to General Tech Chat where you can find more info..

Same as any MkI Focus for things like that, and this isn't a "mod".

If the driver's side opens with the fob as mentioned, did you try a double click of the fob to open both?

(Just to ask the dumb question first)

Sure thing. No problem. I didn't think about it like that. Thanks for moving it.

It's only the passenger side that opens. I hit the button twice to do that.
I never sat in the car and used the fob but when I use the door switch I can hear noise, lock or unlock but neither do anything.

So I can unlock my passenger door from the outside with the fob by pressing the button twice but no other electrically operated door locking functions work.
 

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Old Phart
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OK, driver's door should be one click & also cycle again with the two clicks - so def. not working. (managed to read that backwards for which functioned)

That reduces it to the usual suspects, latch mech/motor or wiring.

If I had to bet it would be on the mech, but driver's door wiring contacts and wiring in particular can have issues from flexing. Give the plug in some exercise at the front of the door by unplugging it from the car & plugging it in again. Might clean up a bad contact.

Beyind that you'd have to get inside the door for electrical test of both sides - latch & wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
OK, driver's door should be one click & also cycle again with the two clicks - so def. not working. (managed to read that backwards for which functioned)

That reduces it to the usual suspects, latch mech/motor or wiring.

If I had to bet it would be on the mech, but driver's door wiring contacts and wiring in particular can have issues from flexing. Give the plug in some exercise at the front of the door by unplugging it from the car & plugging it in again. Might clean up a bad contact.

Beyind that you'd have to get inside the door for electrical test of both sides - latch & wiring.
I haven't looked into it as far as you've mentioned... There is a plug at the front of the door?
Like in the jamb? I'll check that out in a minute.

This question I ask is preemptive to the inner door reinforcement that I just ordered for the second time. Knowing that I will be pulling the door panel off to replace that, where should I poke and probe or by that time it will be self explanatory?

I see the door lock actuator can get close to $200, which is ridiculous, I think busting out the window would be cheaper.




Yeah. Every time I get i it.

[hatchet]
 

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Old Phart
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Yep, I was thinking of where it plugs into the door frame.

On mine one of the two plugs on the driver's side came partially loose without my knowing it, lost some door electrical function until wiggled & set all the way back in and latched with the twist latch.

Hopefully once you have it apart for the reinforcement job the plug/wiring is fairly obvious (if still a problem). No power pulse when it should be latching/unlatching is a go/no go check.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yep, I was thinking of where it plugs into the door frame.

Ojn mine one of the two plugs on the driver's side came partially loose without my knowing it, lost some door electrical function until wiggled & set all the way back in and latched with the twist latch.
Alright. It's cold and dark but here's what I just did.

Unlocked car as normal with fob.(keep in mind ds door handle is broke again)
Entered through passenger side.
Turned key, rolled driver side window down.
In driver seat.
Removed key.
Jiggled wire loom while pressing door lock on driver door.
No action. No sound.
Closed driver door.
Locked doors manually.
Pressed unlock on fob.
Driver door unlocked.
Pressed twice.
Passenger side unlocked.
Pressing lock on the fob or door switch has no action.
Pressing lock on the fob a few times makes the horn honk twice.

Flustered, I am.
 

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Old Phart
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Well, you seem to have identified an intermittent - more checks can help narrow it down.

It SOUNDS like the driver's door happened to work for a moment with the fob after closing it, while not working when open, a sign of issues with wiring as it extends from frame to door including at the connection located at the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, you seem to have identified an intermittent - more checks can help narrow it down.

It SOUNDS like the driver's door happened to work for a moment with the fob after closing it, while not working when open, a sign of issues with wiring as it extends from frame to door including at the connection located at the frame.
They both definitely unlock with the fob. Neither lock with either the fob or by pressing the door switch. The fob does make it honk though, so its not a transmitter issue.

Something else I forgot, realized and was just searching for is my door ajar light being on.

Door ajar light is definitely driver door related as when it is on I can pull the handle to shut it off. I have to pull the handle hard and when I let go it comes back on.

Is locking the doors related to that? Can my door ajar light be sensing an open door and refusing to lock them?
Are the locks supposed automatically lock when driving?

[wrenchin]I need a wiring diagram for this system for sure.[wrenchin]

Also, when reading up on the door ajar or latch problem, a common temporary solution is to spray with some sort of lubricant... is there a diagram for this door latch part? There might be some adjustment that I can make to get this in the right place to shut the light off.
 

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Old Phart
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It helps to catalog results of tests, and assume ONLY what is proven.

Fob actions are ONLY proven for items affected by an individual button, such as door unlocking for one but not both. When BOTH do not work, it's actually quite possible for the fob to be involved.

Door ajar switch is at the latching post area for most, if yours is in that category you can see the rubber bellows cover over the press switch behind the striker post area.

Neither locking with the door switch points back towards wiring, at least for that function.

I had a driver's door that started NOT unlatching until the handle was at it's limit, or not at all when I went to repair it. Loose feeling until right at the end of travel. taking the inner door cover off for access was necessary to spray the latch mechanism enough to get it working again, and NOT pulling too hard saved the handle reinforcement mech. so often replaced on these. You'll see arguments about it, but WD40 worked fine for that in my case and I'm in the same northern climate zone you are. Normal for years now afterwards.
 

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When you take a latch assembly apart it becomes very obvious how the latches can fault in so many ways, ANY drag at all caused by the latch running dry of grease because of age and the limit switches inside then go into problematic operation that shows up in several ways. You have to have every bit of the last 2-3 degrees or so of latch part motion and always or then you sometimes don't trip the limit. Very common to have intermittent issues with it. The limits also are thin silicone skin weather protected and that is weak as spit to let the elements get to the switch internals pretty quick. Simply touching that weather cover with a finger can ruin it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Sheesh.

I would've gotten into this today but thank you amazon for some reason cancelling my order and saying I did it.
smh
A few more days now until I open it up.

Thanks for the input.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
BTDT, yell until you get some sort of credit for that.
Oh, I already called them out on it. Refunded but no explanation why it was cancelled.
"Delivery attempted at 3:25pm and again at 5pm after which it was cancelled online and returned, says refused delivery."

I used the amazon locker option, how in the hell could I refuse delivery?

Gotta see where else I can get it, maybe one of the chain stores... Advance or Oreilly.
 

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By credit I mean above and beyond the refund. They have messed you up with their incompetence. My son does it all the time.

If you buy at a chain store highly likely you will pay too much, I used to work for them, dealer type parts they commonly hang you out to dry on. Unless buying a Chinese copy of something and likely there too. Things like headlights and taillights were a terrible ripoff.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yeah, I know. I want Dorman 81970. I don't go about them any other way. I should try being more aggravated when I talk to those people. Its their job to be nice and mine to be mean. I ordered it next day, too. Had I been in the business mentality, I would've been able to express how I lost money and a customer by not having a part... I don't know what above my money back I should be requesting though.

Any examples?
 

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Time lost waiting for it. Shipping cost. Time lost from not being able to go to work due to them is a good one.

The son buys scads of first day video games, any mistake can mean not even getting 'special editions' of some as they can be gone in less than 4 hours. He's gotten back $50 more than once over loss of that and $20-$30 over missing first day and getting it on the second, he tells them he is a game reviewer for magazines (he is actually). They commonly lump one discount on top of another and often only give the one, that always gets them raked to give more too for the inconvenience. Being a bigtime Prime user with shipments all day long adds to it, they would lose a big chunk there.

I too languished forever letting people stiff me on things just by them being more forceful than me, you need to develop the skills. Just be sure you are in the right about it. It's not about you're being mean, more like you want what you PAID FOR. Or, the normal right to get treated in a fair fashion.
 
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