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Discussion Starter #41
One more thing I forgot to mention.

Since I was running adjustable Tokico HTS-I did play with the settings.

On the street I would turn them down a bit.

I listened to others saying don't go too stiff on dirt,so initially went a little stiffer on the front and kinda stiff on the rear.

But back of the car was jumping all over the place/banging around so I went full stiff on the back and it was better.

But I was bottoming out pretty hard in front when the course got chewed up so eventually went full stiff on all 4 corners and left it there for the remainder of the season while racing.

When I got the new front springs I did the same-but I noticed with the new springs when I dialed down the fronts back to cushy street setting that the struts were indeed topping out coming out of driveways or going over speed bumps,so I had to stiffen them up a couple turns and that took care of it.

Hopefully your svt dampers will have enough compression/rebound to control your suspension once you get your ride height/droop set the way you want.
I'm really thinking I don't want to over spring it by going any stiffer than an SVT spring on the SVT strut.
Did your shocks have separate adjustment for Comp/Reb? Or did it adjust both with 1 knob?

I also have to keep reminding myself I'm not building a racecar. Its my Daily Driver LOL. But also if things are not right, it will bug me......
 

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My Tokico HTS shocks and struts only have the one knob-adjusts both rebound and compression at the same time.

Not sure if Tokico has gone tits up or just limited availability of some types of shocks or struts but it doesn’t look like they are much of a thing anymore.

They don’t have my struts available anymore.

I will be considering other options on both my cars.
 

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Made some .750" coil spacers over the weekend. Waiting on my SVT springs to show up this week.

Especially since you’re not competing, I think that size spacer plus SVT springs you’re going to be pretty happy with.

When I was running rallyx on a similar setup-90% of the time I was super happy.

It was mostly wihen the course got chewed up towards the end of the day that I started bottoming out pretty bad with that set up.

That’s when I decided to custom order slightly taller than stock and stiffer front springs.

But there was one particular course we ran that I did bottom out pretty regularly from the start with the svt spring/.80 spacer combo.

But I still won my class for that event, granted my class for that day (2wd prepared) was only me and two other cars LOL.

It wasn’t our normal course.

Our normal dirt parking lot was taken from us at the last moment for motocross event parking.

But the owner gave us the trophy truck course.

Which was kind of hilarious because it has big truck jumps.

Rather than ask permission from SCCA if this was going to be OK, our rally X organizer did the beg for forgiveness route afterwards instead(I heard they were not thrilled with that choice)and set up cones to try and slow us down so we wouldn’t catch air.

With only partial success-Ha!

I didn’t catch much air in the focus, but some of the Subies sure did!

Course was so much more fun than our normal course.

Video link below is one of the sweeper corners. It’s not too exciting to watch stock-ish Rallycross cars go around it, but it was a little bit more washboard than it looks ,and my outside front wheel was bottoming out repeatedly as I went around.



About 2/3 of my brain said let off the gas man -this is harsh -my poor car!

But the other 1/3 said don’t lift you pu$#y!

That side won out – I did not lift.

If you watch the video linked below, you see the Porsche go first, then me, then the organizer in his Miata next.

Then, a bunch of all-wheel-drive Suby’s that ran at the same time because my class was so small, then we come around again.






...
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Looks like fun. I used to race at Glen Helen late 90's/early 2000's when I raced District 37 GP's
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Got my front SVT springs. Now just to find time to swap out the springs and spacers.

Been tinkering with other stuff.
Fixed my leaking Tail Light. Hopefully the spare tire well wont fill up with water in a heavy rain anymore LOL.
New OEM motor mounts sure took the shake out of things.
 

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I can't tout the benefits of replacing all three motor mounts enough. I just bought an 06 focus that I thought had a blender full of nickels for a motor. Installed new motor mounts and it's a brand new car. I thought it was an exhaust leak, nope, I thought it was gutless, nope I thought I was the best mechanic ever, yep.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
I can't tout the benefits of replacing all three motor mounts enough. I just bought an 06 focus that I thought had a blender full of nickels for a motor. Installed new motor mounts and it's a brand new car. I thought it was an exhaust leak, nope, I thought it was gutless, nope I thought I was the best mechanic ever, yep.
Still have some vibration at idle after new mounts. Definitely better than before though. Vibrates worse with the AC on at idle also. I'm about to replace the injectors. We'll see if that makes any difference
 

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Discussion Starter #53
"The new set-up(taller front [email protected] Lbs/inch,disconnected front sway bar,rear H&R 24mm sway bar) is awesome!

Slightly more tail-happy than before-but very controllable.

No more bottoming in front!

Measured front droop at 2.25" before race-don't know if anything settled more during race-I'll check again tomorrow.
I was worried that the droop wasn't enough-but that's close enough to the 30% droop I was after and I don't notice any topping out over anything.

I've got quite a bit of uptravel now(for a standard stroke strut anyway) so ruts don't bother me and better ground clearance too.

I was worried the 1" taller than ZX3 front springs would upset the handling and make the car lean,but upping the front spring rate to 175 seems to have taken care of that."
rallyrs, do you happen to know the free length of your custom 175lb springs?
I have 2 sets of Moog Wagon Rear springs here that I may try in the front.
1 set is linear rate and 1 is progressive. I bought them for the rear since that's what The Norm was using, but had them sitting next to my old front struts and thought they might be worth playing with. I will probably cut the stock spring mounts off the struts and make aluminum collars for the wagon coils. I have my old stock struts to cut on first.

MOOG # 81597 (WAGON REAR - LINEAR RATE)
ID = 3.417 in
Bar Diameter= 0.515 in
Spring Rate - lbs per inch =173
Load - lbs = 679
Free Height= 16 in

MOOG # CC881 (WAGON REAR - PROGRESSIVE RATE)
ID = 3.34 in
Bar Diameter = 0.510 in
Spring Rate - lbs per inch =166
Load - lbs = 625
Free Height= 15.77 in
 

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Unfortunately -no I did not measure the free length Of those custom springs before installing them.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Tried the Wagon Rear Springs on the front just for kicks. Too long even with 2 coils cut off.
~14" free length and in increased rate due to cutting coils was too tall.

Found a pair of 12" long 170lb springs I picked up yesterday. Need to make some aluminum seats for them and I think these will do the trick
 

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Discussion Starter #56 (Edited)
Well I modified my old stock struts to accept the 2.5" ID coilover springs.
The pair of used 12" long 170lb springs I picked up were from a local drag racer. They're an off-brand and dont have much travel. They coil bind around 6~6.5" Compressed Height or so. It sits at ride height @ 7-3/8" compressed height and I can hear the coils binding while driving.

They were cheap and got me where I needed to be as far as ride height and droop. Just need a different brand spring that will not coil bind as soon.

Eibach Part Number 1200.250.0175 Looks like what I need.
12" x 2.5 ID x 175 lbs/inch
Full Compressed Height: 4.16 Inches
Travel: 7.84 Inches

Another option is their "Barrel" style spring. Has more travel in the same length spring
Eibach Part Number P1200.2530.0175
12" x 2.5 ID x 175 lbs/inch
Full Compressed Height: 3.44 Inches
Travel: 8.56 Inches


Here's some pics of what I did last night.

 

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Nice work! Those top adapter pieces are really nice for using the 2.5" ID springs. We did something similar for our road race SVT, but I didn't have access to a lathe, and instead fabbed up some top adapters using a portion of the stock upper spring seat, a flat circle piece, and a short piece of 2.5" OD tubing to pilot the spring on.

For the bottom seat, we cut off the stock seat and made an aluminum sleeve to fit over the strut. We also fitted some generic coilover sleeve adjusters in order to set ride height, corner balance, etc. Our springs are quite a bit shorter due to low stance vs your higher stance.

Using the 2.5" ID springs gives you unlimited options for spring rates, ride heights, etc. The mods to fit them are so simple that idk why anyone would spend the $$$ for any of the aftermarket "lowering" or "high rate" springs.

I'll see if I can attach a couple pics to show what we did...
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Nice work! Those top adapter pieces are really nice for using the 2.5" ID springs. We did something similar for our road race SVT, but I didn't have access to a lathe, and instead fabbed up some top adapters using a portion of the stock upper spring seat, a flat circle piece, and a short piece of 2.5" OD tubing to pilot the spring on.

For the bottom seat, we cut off the stock seat and made an aluminum sleeve to fit over the strut. We also fitted some generic coilover sleeve adjusters in order to set ride height, corner balance, etc. Our springs are quite a bit shorter due to low stance vs your higher stance.

Using the 2.5" ID springs gives you unlimited options for spring rates, ride heights, etc. The mods to fit them are so simple that idk why anyone would spend the $$$ for any of the aftermarket "lowering" or "high rate" springs.

I'll see if I can attach a couple pics to show what we did...

Looks good! That was my next step was to add adjustment. Thought about making the threaded adjusters myself, but might just buy them. Where did you get yours?
Are those SVT shocks? I cut on my original ZX3 shocks for mocking up. I have a new set of SVT's here
I may have a hard time cutting on a new set of shocks when the time comes LOL
 

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Yes, that was a pair of SVT struts.
Talk about cutting into a new pair of struts, I did it on a pair of Bilstein B8's that cost close to $200 apiece after waiting 2 months for them to be built in Germany!
I did the originals (carefully) with a cut-off wheel, but when it came time to do the Billy's, I had someone chuck them up on a lathe to cut off the spring seat. I instructed him to just cut deep enough to get through the seat material and not touch the body. You'll be able to do it, it looks like you're quite handy on the lathe.
There are many sleeves available - Koni, QA1, etc. The best value parts I found for the quality and money were made by Allstar. I got them from Summit Racing. The part numbers are: AAF-ALL64162 for the sleeve, and AAF-ALL64180 for the adjuster. Each part is only about $15/each. Idk if you could make them for that cheap. The sleeves are 5" long, and had to be cut down to 3.5"
I forget the sleeve's ID, but it was a bit loose on either shock, so for the OEM SVT struts, I used a piece of .062" aluminum tube as a spacer between the strut body and sleeve. For the Billy's, I had to use a tube that was .040" wall. The diameter of the aluminum tube was a bit off the ID or OD, so I slit it length-wise, removing a thin strip of metal, and slid it over the strut. 2 hose clamps were used to temporarily hold it tight to the strut, while sliding the sleeve over it - perfect fit, no more wobble...
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Yes, that was a pair of SVT struts.
Talk about cutting into a new pair of struts, I did it on a pair of Bilstein B8's that cost close to $200 apiece after waiting 2 months for them to be built in Germany!
I did the originals (carefully) with a cut-off wheel, but when it came time to do the Billy's, I had someone chuck them up on a lathe to cut off the spring seat. I instructed him to just cut deep enough to get through the seat material and not touch the body. You'll be able to do it, it looks like you're quite handy on the lathe.
There are many sleeves available - Koni, QA1, etc. The best value parts I found for the quality and money were made by Allstar. I got them from Summit Racing. The part numbers are: AAF-ALL64162 for the sleeve, and AAF-ALL64180 for the adjuster. Each part is only about $15/each. Idk if you could make them for that cheap. The sleeves are 5" long, and had to be cut down to 3.5"
I forget the sleeve's ID, but it was a bit loose on either shock, so for the OEM SVT struts, I used a piece of .062" aluminum tube as a spacer between the strut body and sleeve. For the Billy's, I had to use a tube that was .040" wall. The diameter of the aluminum tube was a bit off the ID or OD, so I slit it length-wise, removing a thin strip of metal, and slid it over the strut. 2 hose clamps were used to temporarily hold it tight to the strut, while sliding the sleeve over it - perfect fit, no more wobble...

Thanks for the info. These 2.5" spring adapters I actually made on the CNC Mill LOL. I'm handy with both mill and lathe.
I trimmed the spring seat off with a cutoff wheel then finished it in the manual lathe. Original shocks were nice to practice on LOL.
For $15 each I'll just buy the threaded sleeves. Not worth my time to make those myself at that price.
My car is an 06, so the struts are 2". The threaded sleeves should fit without an issue.
 
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