Focus Fanatics Forum banner

1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I Race A 02 ZX3 On A 1/4 mile Asphalt Oval Track, and need some help mid turn to out of corner. Car Pushes Bad If I Drive Into The Corner Hard But Have To In Order To Beat An Acura Intregra & A Honda Civic Hatchback. All Stock Class With Some Modifications Allowed.

Here's My Current Setup:
185/60/14 Falken ZE912 All The Way Around (Also Run 15's On Occasion)
2 Degrees Negative Camber RF
1.5 Positive Camber DF
Strut Mount Are Drilled To Allowed Camber Adjustment.
Strut Mount Support Bar.
Stock Sway Bar Front & Rear
Car Is Lowered With Cut Springs in Rear And Don't Remember What Fronts Are.
Stock 2.0 Zetec W/ A Spectre Intake W/ The Terrible ATX But It Gets The job Done. (GOING TO DO THE MTX SWAP WHEN I CAN.)
Stock Header With Clear CAT & Custom Straight Pipe That Exits The Side of Car, In Front of RR.

What Rules Allow:
8 Engine
8.1 Any engine to any chassis within manufacturer's line (Toyota to Toyota, Ford to Ford, etc.).
8.2 Four (4) cylinder only. No turbo engines.
8.3 All engine components must be stock.
8.4 Engine must remain in stock location for make and model.
8.5 Firewalls may not be moved or altered.
8.6 Stock production cylinder head only. No shaving, enlarging, polishing or grinding of head ports. No aluminum heads other than stock.
8.7 Stock flywheel only.
8.8 Intake and exhaust manifolds must be stock, with no match porting, grinding, or polishing of the head.
8.9 Fuel Delivery
8.9.1 Any OEM carburetor.
8.9.2 Must have at least two throttle return springs anchored in two different locations in opposite directions.
8.9.3 Must be stock or aftermarket fuel pump.
5 Suspension
5.1 All suspension mounting brackets must be of stock components and in stock location for make and model.
5.2 Upper strut mounts cannot be moved. May brace from strut tower to strut tower.
16 Wheels
16.1 Stock rims only.
16.2 Each wheel must have stock brakes in good working order.
16.3 Tires
16.3.1 No wider than 185 Series
16.3.2 No Smaller than 60 Series
16.3.4 Tread wear will be 300 or harder.
16.3.5 Must be a \S, T, U, H Speed rating.

Here's A Photo of My Car


More Photos Can be Found On My Facebook Page at:
https://www.facebook.com/AmandaSmithRacing

Any & All Help Would Be Much Appreciated. Thank You In Advance
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
369 Posts
Yours rules package listed don't speak to trans modifications. The mtx allows for a few different final drive ratios, 3.42. 3.82 4.06 4.25. These by themselves will change how the car runs and where in the torque band the car will run. Also a limited slip would work with any of these gears in an mtx, you may also be able to put one in your current box. You could also weld the box to a solid diff. Have you ever tried running with no front bar, in road racing we run a more developed suspension but no front bar for us works wonders, we also run really big rear bars and spring rates. Since the motor is open to what goes into the platform, bigger could be better, 2.3 liter Duratec .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,807 Posts
I would upgrade the rear bar. Svt bar is biggest oem. Also consider rear wagon springs. They,re stiffer, but would be too tall. U might need to cut them down.

As for engine. Any ford 4 cyl? Put a 2.5 out of a fusion/escape
 

·
FF's Night Security
Joined
·
28,767 Posts
Nice track car! If your wanting to put some power down and turn your going to need a diff to put it down and help you turn. You'll have to do some serious case modding to fit a diff in the auto but it can be done though if you do the MTX swap that would make that whole thing a lot easier.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I would upgrade the rear bar. Svt bar is biggest oem. Also consider rear wagon springs. They,re stiffer, but would be too tall. U might need to cut them down.

As for engine. Any ford 4 cyl? Put a 2.5 out of a fusion/escape
So i'm new to setup and all that, my brother usually does all that and I just show up and drive. What does upgrading the rear suspension do? shouldnt I upgrade the front suspension?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Nice track car! If your wanting to put some power down and turn your going to need a diff to put it down and help you turn. You'll have to do some serious case modding to fit a diff in the auto but it can be done though if you do the MTX swap that would make that whole thing a lot easier.
Thank you! As of right now I think the MTX Swap is going to be next off seasons project as funds are quite low. I can pull the integra & civic on the straights but they're getting me in the corners. My biggest issue I need help with right now is handling in the corner from mid to mid out. cause like I mentioned, if i drive into the corner "too hard" I push bad.(probably should have been more clear in original post)

I came across some custom camber plates from http://www.goldcoastautomotive.com that I think im going to order and try to allow for more camber and some caster.

They can be found here: http://goldcoastautomotive.com/cgi-bin/p/awtp-product.cgi?d=gold-coast-automotive&item=39417
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
why not just run the full svt suspension setup?
I didn't know you could use parts from svt. like i mentioned earlier i'm new to all this. what all can you use off an svt? does it have to be in same year range as if i was pulling parts from the junk yard? Thank you.
 

·
Old Phart
Joined
·
44,596 Posts
SVT springs/shocks are a bit lower & stiffer, and they're "stock" & will bolt in to your car. The brakes are larger as well, including discs at the rear if you can find them. Couldn't use the brakes within your rules I don't think, as they need larger rims for clearance (stock 15" alloys won't fit over them).

Stiffening up the rear will keep the nose flatter and let the rear slide more to equalize cornering (more balanced with less understeer).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,271 Posts
everything from the SVT platform will swap over and I would assume since it came as a stock option you should be able to run it on your track car. and would definitely perform better then some cut up stock spring lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,807 Posts
So i'm new to setup and all that, my brother usually does all that and I just show up and drive. What does upgrading the rear suspension do? shouldnt I upgrade the front suspension?
It sounded like u were describing under steer, so stiffen up the rear or soften the front for less understeer
 

·
Old Phart
Joined
·
44,596 Posts
Sports Car & Circle Track folks use different terms to talk about what's usually the same thing.

Under steer = Push = Tight for most purposes.

When the front drifts/slides more than the rear, you turn the wheel & the nose doesn't turn as much as desired, the tail stays planted compared to the front - those are all "under steer" situations.

A FWD car will seldom get "loose" or over steer, when it does it's not as easy to control as a RWD one where just easing the throttle is usually enough to bring it back in line. In fact backing off then will just make it come around more most of the time, it can snap around fast at that point.

When the car's handling is 'balanced", the whole car will move sideways toward the outside in a corner if you're going faster than the traction allows.

FWD has a tendency to "push" as you add power in a corner & tuck back in as power is reduced.

Does some of that make sense as to what you're feeling?
 

·
Old Phart
Joined
·
44,596 Posts
OK, so I'm guessing that you get good turn in as you enter the corner after backing off the throttle, and it starts pushing in the middle of the turn as you add more throttle to maintain speed.

You're on the right track with the camber adjustments at both sides in front, you want the most you can get on that outside front wheel. What can be done within the unwritten rules of your local track can vary, you got all you could from slotting the top mount it looks like. Some can get away with doing the same to the Ball Joint attachments for another adjustment location. A Few even found out about bending the bottom of the strut after an accident did it to them - touchy as you can't do it too much without damaging the workings of the strut. Extra couple degrees to be gotten there easily if you can do it/get away with it.

Softening the front roll by removing the sway bar attachment is easy to try, just pull one link. That transfers less weight to the outside tire letting both tires in front hook up better. The extra roll can be reduced by stiffening the rear by roll bar or springs, that both helps keep the front flatter for better traction there & lets the rear rotate (slide) more by putting more weight on the outside tire in the turn.

The combination gives you more grip in the front while loosing some you don't need in the rear. Instead of putting all the load on the outside front you split it between the front wheels & the right outside wheel - inside rear might even lift a little, though I doubt it with the limitations of your rules.

Get it balanced better & you may be able to dive into the corner on trailing throttle (which helps the rear kick out a bit), work through the center with as much throttle as you can use without drifting up, and add throttle to drift up to the outside wall as you exit.

That's an optimum you may not reach, the closer you can get to it the faster you'll make it through the turn.
 

·
Old Phart
Joined
·
44,596 Posts
Only a larger one will be stiffer, poly bushings make for quicker response but prob. not legal for your purpose.

The SVT one mentioned is the only "stock" bar that's larger.
 

·
Old Phart
Joined
·
44,596 Posts
How wide are your 14's vs. the 15's? Wider helps...

You're limited by the rules there, so you'll be running the widest allowed & they all have to be 60 series high.

All else even, 14's will give you an advantage with lower gearing, but that might be offset if it doesn't gear you right for the corners at your track. 15's might put you in a better place there, and put a little more rubber on the road.

Makes it hard to say one over the other without testing.

Whichever puts you in the best part of the power band when cornering, so you're not topping out or too low for the best power in the turn is the one you want. I know you're running an automatic, but you want to treat it like a manual - shifting in a corner or not having the power to control your attitude would be the slow way around IMHO.
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top