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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm looking for viable solutions to narrow down why my #8 fuse in the distribution box under the hood blows when I hit the starter. I tried to start my 2002 ZTS after driving over 75 miles yesterday and the second I hit the starter all electrical on the dash went dead. The horn, parking lights and power locks all worked so I knew it wasn't the battery. I found the ignition fues (30A) blown and replaced it. When I turned the key to "ON" all the dash lights were normal until I hit the "start" which blew the new fuse. The strange twist is the radio/CD player will work with or without the key in the switch which it never did before. Does anyone know if this is an ignition switch issue, starter relay short or in the starter itself and how do I narrow down the options? I'd appreciate any knowledgeable advise. My Focus has 176K and until yesterday has been very dependable. Thanks.
 

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C2H5OH
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http://www.filedropper.com/zetecautostartsystem

http://www.filedropper.com/zetecmanualstartsystem


Looks like it'd probably be an ignition switch issue.
Best bet is to pull the column cover and see if anything looks burnt.
It might be possible that the starter solenoid is grounding out. I know if the stud works loose it can ground to the block, but only if the shield is damaged.
(I can't find a pic, but if you've ever seen the power wire on the starter you'll know what I'm talking about)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Thanks for the reply. Good advise and well taken. I'm mechanical but not a mechanic. Mostly because I can't afford to drop my vehicles off at a dealer for something I'm capable of fixing. I also get satisfaction from fixing things. (it's a curse sometimes)
I put a new fuse in tonight and by only turning the key "on" I was able to put up the power windows (it started pouring within 15 min.) If I removed the cable on the starter and turn the key to "start" and the fuse doesn't blow wouldn't that narrow it down to the starter as the problem? If it blows another fuse I'd go back to the ignition switch. It's a $4.00 test. I'm down to one vehicle until I can get this solved.
 

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DTC P0606
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If I removed the cable on the starter and turn the key to "start" and the fuse doesn't blow wouldn't that narrow it down to the starter as the problem? If it blows another fuse I'd go back to the ignition switch.
Try pulling the starter relay R17 (passenger compartment) to achieve the same effect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
bigger issue than I am prepared for.

After pulling the starter the ignition fuse did not blow so I had the starter tested. It wasn't drawing excessive amperage so he only replaced the solenoid. I Installed the starter, hooked the battery back up and now nothing happens.... The good news is the fuse didn't blow. Two other observations I've made is now the interor light will not shut off (unless you shut it "off" at the switch) and the radio will come on with or without a key in the switch. Horn, exterior lights, power windows, locks, blower all operate normal. I'm guessing an eletrical short or burt a connector. BUT WHERE? [dunno] Anyone else have a similar problem?
 

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C2H5OH
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Well the radio should be able to come on W/O the key in the ignition so long as the ignition was on in the last 30 minutes. That's something which is controlled by the Central Timer Module ... IIRC the radio will stay on for up to one hour.

The dome light is odd. Maybe a door switch is bad ... but normally they fail open, which would make the dome light not work when the door is opened.




But --> http://www.filedropper.com/ctsignitionswitch

Leads me to believe we're back to the ignition switch being the root cause. Possibly it thinks the key is always in the ignition.


Without me physically seeing the car this is about as far as I can go. I don't want to tell you flat out to replace the ignition, but I do feel it's worth pulling the cover off the steering column and having a look inside for any obvious damage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for your quick reply to my frustrating delema. Also for clearing up the concern on the radio. I never knew the radio was live without the key. On my Explorer the radio stays on after the key is out until a front door is open. Being an older Ford, I didn't realize the Focus had that feature. I'm somewhat releived about it.
I took the cover off the column last night and the only out of the ordinary thing I noticed was the column adjustment lever was above the wires going to the ignition. Which indicates to me someone has worked on it before and was careless about getting everything back where it belongs. There were at least two friction taped wires between the base of the column and the switch. I slid the friction tube up to see why it was there and it appeared to be a factory splice so I left it alone.
If I replace the ignition switch can I keep the same cylinder so I don't have to get new keys? Or is the ignition switch seperate from the key switch? I've read dialogue on other threads about common problems with keys working hard or breaking off in the switch. Just wondering so I could be prepared for it. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Problem solved...

Turned out that while I was connecting the air box and breather after installing the starter I discovered a connector pulled apart off the pos. battery post which was the smal wire to the solenoid. As soon as that connector was clicked together it started up with no more isues. No blown fuse and all dash lights were normal. Appearantly there was a direct short in the solenoid. The shop that relaced it said there is no way to take it apart and inspect the contacts so the best option is replacment. $63 later my Focus is back on the road. I'm happy about that. [:)]
That's what happens when a back yard mechanic tries to save a few bucks and forgets to put something back together the way it came apart. I feel like a dummy [:eek:] but I do appreciate all the knowedgeable input from those who offered their insight. [thankyou]
 
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