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Thats What She Said
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Then take the wheel off. Why are you trying to be discreet?

What seals are you talking about? Don't have to change a single seal if you don't want to for the timing belt.

It's recommended to replace the water pump at the same time but you don't have to.
 

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Then take the wheel off. Why are you trying to be discreet?
I like to =) Some people don't like seeing dismantled cars for some reason.

What seals are you talking about? Don't have to change a single seal if you don't want to for the timing belt.
Camshaft/Crankshaft. They came with the timing belt kit I have.

It's recommended to replace the water pump at the same time but you don't have to.
I did it as soon as I got this car, along with the thermostat. Bad water pump + bad thermostat = water all over the place, plus overheating. LOL.
 

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I'm in the process of this, also changing out an alternator. For the water pump, if you use two flat 10mm wrenches (I used gearwrenches), and put one so it hits the third bolt you can take it off. Took the bolts out for the idler pulley mount and seen two other bolts beneath it and is above the crankshaft pulley. Do I have to take the pulley off?
 

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Thats What She Said
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Also seen some oil on the motor mount bracket 13mm bolts. Is that normal?
Car are old enough that oil in places is common. How much? also the OEM passenger mount is oil filled and could also be leaking. Depending on where and how much oil.
 

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Actually, if the mount has been changed the 'oil' inside is closer to water, the Chinese ones use water based silicone fluid in them commonly. Why the insides are so rusty when they blow out.
 

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Only you can tell US that............make sure the plug wires are properly connected, very easy to slide on plug but stuck to side instead of on top and that will do that. The plug wires if old enough commonly pull apart inside too when removing them to do the same.
 

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Ill double check tommorow. When it was warmed up, it went from 30 to 45 pretty quickly. Has rough idle when cold and under 30 isn't as peppy as it was before. Plugs and wires were installed sometime this year.
 

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Just one yank on wires can fault them if crap wireset, and common on zetecs as they really stick to the plug tops. You MUST twist the plug rubber entering the hole loose before you make any effort to remove the wire. The conductor inside is STRING with carbon dust in it, the string pulls apart to make a separation of the dust track and the wire is then dead. An ohms check is easy to do with a cheap voltmeter, the wires can have no more than 5000 ohms per FOOT OF WIRE LENGTH. I've used 20 year old wires if they pass that test.
 

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I didn't get a tool, but had a service manual, which said to stick a 6" or longer cylindrical object in and rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the object stopped going up. Both front cam shaft lobes were laying flat after this. After that, I rotated it another turn to be sure. The pulley key was about pointing towards the top of the engine. Also, the new tensioner notch moves back and forth. Is that normal?
 

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Yes, normal.

The TDC method can work or not, the problem is that the pencil used or whatever slows WAY down in up/down at TDC, the last 5 degrees it moves almost an impossible amount to see by eye slowly, lots of error there and common. Both cam slots being flat is just as worthless if no tool used, for one thing they are off center and one way they are actually way out of line, they only line up every TWO turns, not one.

Add up the error between both lineups (TDC and slots) and you can easily be 10 degrees out of time.
 
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