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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
How-To-ZETEC Timing Belt Replacement

ZETEC Timing Belt Replacement

I am putting this together for the weekend mechanic who has some skills and tools or believes they can do something with outside help such as this procedure. It contains pics, notes, and tools used. I will do my best to stay within the requested limit of 15 pics but may stray over some. Keep in mind this is what worked for me, your mileage may vary.

A bit of an intro. It’s a 2002 ZX5 and my DD with 155k, and sees 100 miles per day. Throw in several long road trips and you arrive at my mileage. Barring any major repairs that just won’t make it cost effective, this car will be around for several more years. So far I have changed the oil every 5-7k miles, replaced the front brakes at 100k, end links at 145k, and at least 3 batteries and 1 alternator. Somehow the timing belt replacement was missed, old age maybe (mine). I was hoping it would last until November’ish when temps cool down out here in the desert. I have been reading up on the change out, printed a procedure from the net, linked here, and ordered the bar and timing pin kit last March.

So anyway the wife is driving down the road about 65’ish when it looses (in only a wife’s description) all the power. I was in Vegas [headbang] , she called, and I told her to either call AAA or drive it home. She was 3 miles from the house and drove it at 25mph which turned out to be about all it would do. I get home the next day (Monday) at 1000 (military time), change cloths and hit the garage. I wanted to take it for a short spin around the block to get a feel for what’s going on. Upon starting it up the engine visible shook pretty good. Took it around the block and could tell it had lost power and just did not have the exhaust sound I am used to hearing after 155k miles. Still didn’t really have an idea yet so hooked up the laptop into the PCM and immediately saw the timing jumping from 25 to 35 degrees and moved with the engine. That’s when the light came on, timing belt. Crap. [bigcry] [bigcry]

I have a garage, air compressor, 2 hydraulic jacks, 6 jack stands, blocks of wood, and lots of metric tools, pneumatic tools, a refrigerator, stereo and a partridge in a pear tree. So I’m set to go.

As for my mechanical skills. I can tear down an engine to parade rest but have never put one back together. I have replaced brakes, rotors, wheel bearings, cylinder head gaskets. Swapped out a carburetor on my CJ7 to a chevy throttle body fuel injection. So I have some skills.

New parts:
Timing belt kit from NAPA, contains the belt, idler pulley and tensioner
Water pump
Serp belt tensioner
Serp belt idler pulley bearing, no one in town had the assemble but found the bearing.
2-O2 sensors
P-side motor mount
Oil and filter

Labor was free but still, all told about 17 hours. In the end the timing belt had slipped and jumped on the crank pulley 2 teeth or 36 degrees of timing. I did not see the importance of installing the timing pin. So I had to take it all apart twice.

Here are some links of interest.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/2004/eb90428.htm
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/redirector.php?url=http://atomic.speculation.org/Graphics/ZX3%20Pics/Focus%20Documentation/Ford%20Manual%20Files/Cam%20Timing.html This is the write up I followed
http://www.handsontools.com/OTC-6486-Ford-Cam-Tool-Kit-for-20L-Zetec-Engines_p_38-6302.html?iorb=4764
http://www.focushacks.com/index.php?modid=56
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
This list contains tools and other stuff. It is extensive but the items in red are a must. Your milage may vary.

8mm socket ¼” drive
10mm socket ¼ and 3/8” drive
13mm socket ¼ and 3/8” drive
14mm socket 3/8” drive
15mm socket 3/8” drive
18mm socket ½” drive
19mm socket ½” drive
8mm wrench
10mm wrench
13mm wrench
15mm wrench
22mm wrench
Pliers
Philips screwdriver
Torx head T-50 socket
Torx head T-25 socket, or a torx T-25 screwdriver kind.
¼ drive rachet
3/8 drive rachet
½ drive rachet
2, 6, 12 inch extensions for each drive.
5/8 spark plug socket
Oil sorb or as I call it, kitty litter to soak up fluid leaks.
Zip lock bags
Sharpie or other marking device
A creeper
Working light
Extension cord
Floor jacks, 2 would be nice
Jack stands=4
Work bench
Pipe wrench
Shop towels
Hand cleaner
Small vacuum cleaner
Krol oil or similar to free up rusted hardware
Digital camera
Note pad
Zip ties
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok Ok, enough of this already, let’s begin.


First things first. Safety, Safety and don’t forget safety. I don’t go under any vehicle unless it’s on stands I trust. Here you see the front raised with 2 sets of jacks on the D and P sides. One under the frame and one on the designed lifting point. I used my handy dandy 2 ¾ ton floor jack. One side up with jacks and go around to the other. Do the same for the back end. All told the bottom of the tire to floor was about 6 inches. This worked for my large frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Now lets start under the hood.

Use the correct tool and remove the negative clamp and wire from the battery. Safety, Safety and Safety.

I zip tied the throttle cables to the intake pipe. Made it easier to remove the valve cover. Also give a short pull on the breather hose at the right rear of the valve cover circled in red. I used a sharpie to lable the plug wires 1 thru 4 left to right. You could use masking tape or whatever. Up to you. So remove the wire's and move them off to the battery side. You can now see down into the valley of the head to the spark plugs. We won't remove yet but now is the time to use compressed air to blow out any dirt. You could use the vacuum later when the valve cover is off. You will need the 10mm socket for the ten valve cover bolts. Get yourself a zip lock bag, lable it and drop the bolts in. Lot easier when putting everyting back together. When all this is done lift the vavle cover up and find a safe spot for it. Use several sheets of your shop towels to keep dirt from getting in. Put several towels on the the engine to.
 

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Ok now to get the floor jack and some blocks of wood. I removed the P side motor mount and so motor needs to be supported. I used a large block on the jack so as not to damage the pan and helps take up space. Several pieces of short 2x4 will work too. Several times I needed to raise or lower the engine to get at the water pump and idler pulley. Again your choice I have read where others could do the same without all this. I like easy. [cheers] Since I had other large chunks of wood, I stacked them under the transmission side just in case the jack slipped off the pan. I don’t need any more repairs. Cinder blocks would work if you feel the same way. Your choice.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I moved the radiator resevior off to the side. The back side has a slit and slides down onto a tab. There is a 13mm bolt holding the tank to the fender. Use an extension to get it. I then used the pliers to move the hose clamps out of the way while tipping the tank back so I don't get wet. Then move the hoses out of the way. The plastic tank ended up in a bucket with small shreds of shop towel in the 3 holes to keep junk out. The first time around I also moved the power steering res too, but then learned it was not necessary. I put the 13mm bolt back into it's hole.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
This opens up the area to get at the motor mount and cam sprocket cover. Do you have the jack under the oil pan yet? Better do it now. Just enough pressure to hold the engine in place.
First thing is remove the 2 nuts that have the arrows off the studs. 18mm
Then remove the 3 bolts labeled with the the red X. 15mm
Then slide the motor mount up and put it someplace safe.
Get the Torx E10 socket and remove the 2 studs circles in red.
Now on the left side of the cover you see an electrical plug, it has one of the ribbed thingy's holding it to the cover. I used a flat tip screwdriver and easily pried it out of the way.
There are 4 10mm bolts holding the cover. Remove, put it out of the way and bag the bolts. This a pic from the first go around so you don't see the power steering hoses.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
At this point I remove the front P side tire. Lugs are 19mm. Then I took out the wheel well cover. Again some take this out others don't, your call. I like easy. Tools needed are the T-25, phillips screwdriver and 8mm socket.
The lower front of the fender is the T-25.
There are 4 plastic type screws in the middle of the cover.
The 8mm holds up the back end just under the body.
Bag the parts and put this out the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Get your 10mm wrench to loosen up the 3 water pump pulley bolts. The serp belt is still on and this is the time. You would have a heck of a time trying to get them loose later. Your not taking the bolts out yet. This pic shows the serp belt off but trust me, leave it on and loosen the bolts. The bolt that is circled is one of three that holds on the water pump. I put a new one in while I was in the area.
 

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Let's remove the serp belt. Need the 15mm wrench for this one. I also used a second wrench to double the leverage. I did this from below the car and you push the wrench away from you as far as you can. Then slip the belt off towards the engine. Snake the belt out and put off to the side. I replaced the belt and tensioner.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Now the serp belt is off so remove the water pump bolts and pull the pulley off. I can't remember but had to use the floor jack under the oil pan to raise or lower the engine to get it out. You'll see.

Now the next timing belt cover. Remove the serp belt idler pulley with your 13mm wrench. I raised the engine up for this. I needed to have the bolt, which is long, clear the wheel well. There's 4 more bolts, three 13mm and the T-50 torx socket. I put all this hardware and the water pump bolts in one bag put off to the side.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Remove the 4 spark plugs. It will make it very easy to rotate the engine. But before doing so, put the vacuum hose down into the head and suck any dirt out first.

Time to find TDC of the engine. This is where the kit comes in. The bar and timing pin. You will need the 18mm socket to rotate the crank sprocket by the nut. You should really consider putting in the timing pin. Very important to use the pin. I didn't. Sooooo, I had to take everything apart again.

The pin is located in the front of the engine behind the cat. I could see it but my big hand could not reach it. If you can, it will take a 13mm deep well socket or wrench to remove it. Then simply get your pin and screw it in.

If not you will have to take the cat off. About another 40 minutes or so. How about I make that another post?

So the pin is in, you rotate the crank clockwise very easy and you feel it hit the pin. Great job. Now take a look at the cams. The slots will be lined up,slip the bar into the cam slots. The tolerance of the slots and the thickness of the bar are really close. It doesn’t look like they will line up but by slightly moving the crank you will get them just right. The bar went into one cam and had to ever so slightly move the crank to slide the bar into the other.

The engine is now mechanically TDC. This is the only way to know.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Before we take the belt off lets paint mark the crank sprocket. This will help you ensure the timing stays at TDC. Here's a pic of it.

To remove the belt you have to back off the belt tensioner bolt, 10mm, 4 turns. The tensioner has a metal tab that sits in a slot. When the bolt is backed off you can grab the tab and pull it out. This releases the belt tension and makes life easier when removing the belt. Now the belt doesn't just fall off, it will take a bit of effort. Don't use a tool to pry off, just wiggle it off. Don't want to create more work.

The timing belt kit I used came with the belt, tensioner and 2 idler pullies. I used the larger pulley and tossed the smaller one. Install the new timing belt tensioner but leave it loose.

This also gives you the oppurtunity to replace the serp belt tensioner and water pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
My situation was not just replacing the belt. I found my timing had actually jumped 30+ degrees when the timing belt ribs came off. So when I thought I was at TDC I actually wasn't.

The old belt was removed, I had the cam bar in place but once I removed the exhaust and installed the timing pin I was able to rotate the crank sprocket clockwise. You will know when you hit the pin. Anyway here's a pic of the 2 paint marks and the compass I put on the sprocket to show how far off it was.

I noted the number of teeth on the crank sprocket along with a 360* circle. As you can see each crank tooth is 18* of timing. Mine had jumped 2 teeth or 36* of timing.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Ok, you have replaced the serp belt tensioner, water pump, timing belt tensioner(bolt backed out 4 turns with tab out of slot), timing belt idler pulley and your ready to install the belt.

A second set of hands would help with the next step. It's very important when installing the new timing belt to keep a good tension. Start by looping the belt around the crank sprocket, now this is a son of gun to keep on. It has a need to jump off. You'll figure it out. Anyway, you will be tugging on this in the counter clockwise direction which is opposite the crank rotation. So, I put the 18mm socket with a 12" extension and keep my left leg pressed against the 1/2" drive to keep the crank in place. Roll the belt around the idler pulley and around the exhaust cam. This is where the belt wants to jump back 1 rib. As you bring it over the top of the exhaust keep good tension toward the intake cam sprocket. Then around the tensioner pulley. Not so bad was it?

The belt will need a little help over the tensioner. If it's way to tight then most likely you have slack in the belt because it jumped back during the install.

When your done, take a look at your paint marks. Are they still lined up? Yes, time to set the tensioner.

Is there noticable slack in the belt, mostly from the crank sprocket to the idler pulley? Yes, take the belt off and start over.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Get your 6mm allen wrench and 10mm socket. There is a indented line on the metal tab. This and the notch need to be lined up. Put the metal tab into the hole. Use the 6mm allen wrench in the hexagonal hole to line up the two. Once they are, tighten down on the bolt.
 

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