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The engine isn't going to be as far back as the pictures might look. When that was shot, the whole thing was hanging by a couple of straps. The motor and trans actually needs to come up and forward a couple of inches, so the net result is that the clearance issue is mainly due to the thermostat housing on the rear of the block. You could shove the engine all the way back against the inner firewall, but there's no need.

We ended up using the Focus pan. The Contour pan wouldn't help a lot in this installation. Both pans are angled for their FWD configuration. That angle interferes with the front crossmember on this car even with the sump to the rear, so there was really nothing to be gained.

I did give some thought to using a 1.9 Escort pan. I could have made a new pickup tube and notched the sump. If we do this again, we might consider that option.

The plan is to start at the transmission mount first. The tunnel is very narrow and positioning the drive yoke is critical so that it doesn't hit the tunnel or the e-brake mount. Once we determine height and fore/aft position on the trans, we can just lift or lower the engine to get the driveline angle set to match the pinion input. I'll use a magnetic caster/camber gauge to read that.

I put the hood on and looked at the front of the engine thru the grill and we have about 3.5" of space to work with between the hood and the cam gears, so no worries there.

I also noticed that there really isn't a lot of room for a conventional release arm to be used, so our plan to use the hydraulic throwout bearing is going to work out.

Starter clears very well, steering is no issue.
 

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very strange to see a zetec in a non-transverse posture!!! If nothing else, it greatly simplifies a whole lotta future maintenance. Can't wait to see it with the side-draughts mounted.

I don't recall if you've mentioned how much heavier/lighter the zetec is than the MG's original motor (cast iron block/head/manifold?), but have you recalculated the weight redistribution of sliding it fore/aft of the original? The British 2-seaters are sufficiently light in the back for a couple of people to lift with their hands, so the rear wheels are gonna have enuf trouble sticking with the powerplant upgrade (the stock 80 hp (?) motor relieved the MG engineers from worrying too much about that).
 

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With the stock engine and transmission the MGB is a little nose heavy and the weight distribution on a late model rubber bumper like ours is about 52/48. Our new weight distribution will be closer to 51/49, still biased to the front. The engine setback is not really that much - less than two inches. The B engine was setback pretty far to the rear as well - it just didn't have a thermostat trying to occupy the firewall!

Any distribution change will come mostly from the weight reduction, not the engine relocation. The old engine was a heavy lump. Most sources say it is over 400 lbs; as much as 450lbs fully dressed. The Zetec is at least 100lbs lighter (we haven't weighed it). The two of us can easily lift and carry the long-block around the shop. The T5 is a little lighter than the original 4-speed, too.

Removing 100lbs of bumpers, the new engine/trans, and some other tricks, we're probably trimming 300lbs off the car and will end up with a curb weight of about just over 2000lbs. That's HUGE! A Focus SVT weighs almost 2800lbs, for comparison, with nearly 61% of that over the front wheels.

MGB's are traction limited anyway because of the leaf spring suspension. Racing versions added traction bars and panhard bars to help control spring windup and axle movement. We're going to skip that stuff - not racecar.

We will have to do something the get the ride height back down, though.
 

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It's been a while since the last update.

We're finishing off the final sheetmetal firewall mods today. The new motor mounts got done last week and are off to the powdercoater alnog with the brake pedal box, pedals, and a bunch of other brackets. I still have to tack weld a couple of things and then we can shoot paint and primer.

My son spent over a week wire brushing and cleaning old seam sealer and undercoating from the firewall. Gummy, nasty work, but the metal underneath was like brand new.

The engine fits beautifully. I cut the old MG frame mounts off and fabbed some new ones to hold the original rubber. The T5 sits in the original crossmember using a stock Mustang trans mount and the shifter comes up thru the stock hole. I'm going to pull the tailshaft off to install a 6-tooth speedo drive gear. E had to modify our alternator bracket a little to get the alt up higher over the chassis rail.

The Magnaflows came in and we'll mount those just like the stock arrangement.

I have the new driveshaft but will have to swap on one of the u-joint flanges from the old MG shaft. The MG u-joints are tiny.

The next big task is to fab the intake, but I think we'll wait until the engine is back in for good to make sure we have the angles correct and there's no interference elsewhere.

We'll get some photos up this weekend.
 

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I've only just stumbled across this project although I've been considering it for some time, but I can't decide between zetec or red top, just glad that someone else is doing the development work! would you mind if I contacted you off the forum with regard to some technicalities, namely sizes of specific components and fittings, in that way we wont clog up this forum with stuff that no-one else wants?
2motorman.
 

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Discussion Starter #147
I've only just stumbled across this project although I've been considering it for some time, but I can't decide between zetec or red top, just glad that someone else is doing the development work! would you mind if I contacted you off the forum with regard to some technicalities, namely sizes of specific components and fittings, in that way we wont clog up this forum with stuff that no-one else wants?
2motorman.
Feel free to PM either of us on this forum. [wave]
 

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Discussion Starter #148
Hey guys. Sorry for the lack of updates. I'd like to build upon what my dad has already mentioned. The engine compartment has been cleaned up, primed, and painted Blue Royale. The paint coverage ended up being a little too light in some areas so I'll have to respray some paint in about a day or so. [facepalm] It's more work than I was hoping for but it'll be worth the effort.

A few photos of the progress:








Also, all the parts came back from the powder coat company and they look GREAT. When we start piecing everything together, it'll look brand new. I'll try to be a little better about keeping this thread updated. Stay tuned!
 

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Discussion Starter #150
Thanks! That's the plan. The last picture is a little darker than how it looks in person. I took that photo in the evening without flash. If you look at the MGB on page 14, it looks closer to that.

After we get the car running I'm going to paint the exterior of the car. I really like this blue much better than the original color too. Not so smurfy. Since it's a factory MGB color I don't feel guilty about repainting it.
 

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The exterior will be a hundred times easier to paint than the engine compartment! There are so many corners, nooks, and surfaces that it takes a lot of time and paint to get them all.

If you added it all up, the engine compartment alone is probably equivalent to painting three quarters of the rest of the car. Fenders and doors are easy.

In my next life, please God, don't make me come back as a painter.......
 

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Discussion Starter #153
Painting the engine compartment was no easy task. *PHEW* This was my first time prepping and painting anything so it was a bit of an interesting experience. The paint went on great the second time around. We used a larger gun and dialed in the settings to lay on better coats. The prep work we did definitely paid off though. I think it looks pretty good for an engine compartment. I won't bother cutting and buffing. I'll save that for the exterior of the car.

In other news, we finally have the Zetec installed in the MGB! Everything fits perfectly. Here's a photo of my car's current condition:


The motor mounts worked out great. I'm pretty pleased with the way these turned out. Dad definitely did an excellent job designing and welding those up. [thumb]



Next we'll be working hard on designing and fabricating the intake manifold. As you can see, the water pump housing is out. We need to cut and re-weld the water pump neck to be at the correct angle. Now that we've got the big stuff out of the way, we can look forward to encountering a ton of little hurdles. [clap] Stay tuned! More updates and photos to come.
 

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Thanks! We have 90% of the swap done; only 90% left to do.....

Now we can start working it one system at a time: Fuel, intake, cooling, electrical, brake/clutch pedal box, driveshaft, ignition, exhaust. The nice part is, we can hit those in almost any order or simultaneously.

Once we get the car running and sorted out mechanically we can turn our attention to painting the rest of the car. That should be a piece of cake. No rust, no body damage. Just some door dings to sort out and a couple of minor pieces to weld on for the chrome bumper conversion.
 

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The bolts being in different directions on the top motor mount picture are killing me for some odd reason, lol. Looking awesome though. Cant wait to see the final pics and some videos of how it performs!
 

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This thread; I like it.

I'll certainly be checking in on the progress. I'm not sure how I missed it for so many months....and 16 pages...
 

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Discussion Starter #160
The water pump housing has been modified and welded. Now the tubing comes out straight rather than angled backwards. We'll cut it down the the length we need later. We put assembly lube on the cam lobes and installed my powder coated aluminum valve cover. We also reinstalled the pulleys and alternator so everything looks a little more complete.



 
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